Question about eliminating KR via BBA write up

[jcmartel75]

I have a 2010 Camaro SS that I installed a DIY cold air intake in. I used 4" ABS tubing and a K&N filter. It works fairly well however, the thing sucks in more air than the car is used to so, I keep getting a DST for lean bank 1 and 2. I also noticed I have a bit of KR at times, as much as 6*. I'd like to be able to tune this stuff out.

I'm completely new to the tuning world and I've been doing some reading trying to figure out where to start. I don't have a wideband and most of what I've read is for a wideband. I came across the thread in the 4th gen section that contained a link to BBA's tuning process document.

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/attach...8&d=1196388220

I'm starting at section one since I do have some KR to eliminate before I go any further. Section D directs me to go to the Spark Retard Decay table and increase the rate settings. It says that the settings should be for an LS1 and LS2 but, I don't know what to put in for my car. I have an automatic and it's an L99. Does anybody know what I should set my values to in order for me to follow the procedure layed out?

thanks for any help anybody can give me.

Jonathan Martel

[angrygoat]

Verify first whether its burst KR or actual KR before pulling timing. Burst knock is proactive knock retard based on a sudden change in incoming air

[jcmartel75]

To do that would I just look at the MAF coming in at the time of the KR? How do I tell the difference between burst and actual KR?

And thank you for the reply. I keep reading and trying to teach myself but, questions keep popping up. I am very grateful for this forum to use as a resource to get those questions answered.

[knyght4]

To do that would I just look at the MAF coming in at the time of the KR? How do I tell the difference between burst and actual KR?

And thank you for the reply. I keep reading and trying to teach myself but, questions keep popping up. I am very grateful for this forum to use as a resource to get those questions answered.

I'm interested in the answer to this as well.

[jcmartel75]

I was told on another forum that I should read up on calibrating my MAF. Just wanted to get some feedback from more experienced people here if that's the way I should go or not.

thanks

[jcmartel75]

OK here's a pic of a section of a scan I did where I had 6* of KR. It doesn't look like it was a sudden change in MAF. If anything, to me, the MAF might be a little low. When I would get into it a bit, the MAF would go up but, at cruising speed the MAF just kinda hovers around 3 or 4. Is that normal or the calibration of my MAF just jacked and I should just recalibrate it?



thanks for the help

[BBA]

Running lean...need to get on that tuning but first set the stoich value to what you actually run for fuel. Start with 14.4 and see how the trims go down.

If you're lucky, someone else might chime in here and explain how to determine the actual stoich for the fuel you are running...

[carlrx7]

iagree, looks like you need to add like 35%

[angrygoat]

Can you attach the pic? All I can see at work is a red x

[jcmartel75]

I think you have to actually log into the forum to see the pic. I can see it and I think the other guys can too. If you're logged in and still can't see then try this link.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t.../Untitled2.jpg

I'm running 93 octane. I don't know if that's E10 or what. I know the gas companies are mixing ethanol with the gas they put into the pumps. How much exactly is anybody's guess. I've read that 93 octane probably has 10% alcohol.

My stoich AFR table starts at 0% with a stoich value of 14.678, 6.25% with a stoich of 14.322, 12.5% with a stoich value of 13.966, 18.75% with a stoich of 13.61, and so on until 100% with a stoich of 8.978. Would I just change all the values across the board or should I just change the value for the one that affects me. If so, then which one affects me? Should I just change the 6.25% and 12.5% to something like 20.00 and see how that works? BBA, in your PM you said I should change my 0% to 14.4. Is that the only one I should change?

thanks again to all... I really appreciate the help and guidance you guys are giving me

[jcmartel75]

Am I understanding correctly that lowering the values is the way to go? Should I decrease all the values across the board by 1.75%? That would get the 0% to a stoich value of 14.42. Just want to get feedback before I actually do this.

thanks

[turboffr]

OK here's a pic of a section of a scan I did where I had 6* of KR. It doesn't look like it was a sudden change in MAF. If anything, to me, the MAF might be a little low. When I would get into it a bit, the MAF would go up but, at cruising speed the MAF just kinda hovers around 3 or 4. Is that normal or the calibration of my MAF just jacked and I should just recalibrate it?



thanks for the help

off topic, but how do I get my scanner to look like that. I like the look.

[jcmartel75]

I'm using the 2.23 beta and what I did to get both the gauge and chart display to look like that is simply open both, resize to the desired sizes and then move them into position. The gauges look a little compressed but you can at least get both views this way.

I hope that's what you were talking about anyhow. I'm using Windows7 Ultimate if that makes a difference.

[turboffr]

yup, that's what I was referring to. How can I get the 2.23 beta version

[jcmartel75]

email tech support and they'll put it up on your profile to download. 2 things though... 2.24 beta is actually ready now so, you can probably get that instead of 2.23 beta... and Bill is on vacation so, if you email support today you might not hear back until Tuesday or Wednesday depending on how many emails are in his inbox.

[BBA]

Am I understanding correctly that lowering the values is the way to go? Should I decrease all the values across the board by 1.75%? That would get the 0% to a stoich value of 14.42. Just want to get feedback before I actually do this.

thanks

You can do that but as far as I know, the only cell that matters is the 0% cell. (That would apply only for cars not specifically labeled as 'Flex Fuel'. If it is flex fuel equiped, you should not have to make any corrections at all.)

[jcmartel75]

2010 Camaro is not flex fuel equiped so, I'll leave those alone. Thanks for clarifying that for me. I threw caution to the wind and went ahead and made a change to the 0% and put in 14.25. I flashed the new cal, cleared the lean codes and drove the car to get a haircut. On the way back I got the check engine light. When I got home I checked the codes and it was the lean codes making a return. I didn't pull the battery after I flashed the new cal so, hopefully I got the light again because the LTFT was still present. I cleared the codes and pulled the battery so, that should have erased the LTFT. I'll go for a drive after a bit and see if that works. If the 14.25 doesn't work should I just keep going down in .25 increments until I find a value that works?

My plan is to hopefully get rid of the lean codes via finding a stoich value that works and then using the Tuning Process write-up, that you wrote BBA, to get rid of KR and then calibrating my MAF. Is there anything other than doing those things somebody thinks I should add to the to-do list?

I changed a couple other things in the cal other than the 0% box. I shut off the DoD and I upped the input and output torque to the transmission. I think I put the input up to 3900 and put the output up to 6050. I saw an article saying that the factory cal had those way low and I looked at another camaro tune somebody posted and they had the input up to 6050. I just wanted to see if it had an affect so I increased it up to 3900 from 2900. I thought it felt like it had a little more power but, it may just have been the cold air since it's like 50* out.

I saw in another thread that you had some suggestions on standard changes you make to the PE area BBA. Once I get the other stuff worked out I think I'll try those out. I don't want to do too much at once.

[BBA]

Sounds like a good plan. BTW: The scanner special controls has a reset fuel trims function that works pretty good.
You will likely need to tune VE/MAF if the mods made enough difference to trigger the lean codes.

[jcmartel75]

Oh cool. Thanks for the tip. I'll give that a try. Disconnecting the battery is a pain.

Is tuning VE/MAF different than the tuning process write-up that you did? After I follow the write-up tuning procedures I should then do the VE/MAF procedure? Just want to follow the logical path to doing this.

I appreciate your guidance BBA... thank you

[BBA]

The process I wrote IS tuning VE and MAF.