LSJ Turbo Tuning Questions

[Cobalt_SSTuner]

Hey guys, I'm new to this forum, and in the process of learning to tune and recently bought hpt standard. I can turn a wrench pretty well, however I'm still learning to grasp the tuning aspect. I'm going to try and break my questions down into cliff notes to eliminate an essay thread.

Mods: Hahn S20g Turbo 18-20 psi, 60lb injectors, 3" exhaust, forged pistons (stock compression), saab intake manifold

The issues I'm having:

-Cruise AFR runs 15-18
-Idle AFR runs completely lean, meaning past 18 AFR
-When I enter closed loop, the car will not start.

here is the minor essay/background. I had my car tuned last fall by a shop with a pretty solid reputation, however my map sensor was leaking and the shop had to fix it. When I got the car back it still had a rough idle, and they said it was because of the injectors. Well I discovered last week that they put the throttle body on upside down, so in reality, the throttle body was restricted to about 3/4 of the possible max airflow (meaning that the openings were off set, if that makes sense). So I fixed that, and now the car idles extremely better than it did before, however now the tune is way off, which is to be expected. Now I'm trying to fix their mess up. Am I better off trying to fix their tune or should I just start from scratch and take the time to redo it all myself? I have the tune and a few logs if it helps.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

first off their fault should be fixed by them give them the chance....unless they are being unruly and ignorant of course.
continue learning as they do their thing and if you still have problems afterwards then you should have a jump start on learning what goes on in the ecu.

[Cobalt_SSTuner]

Yeah, I called them and they said that they would give me an hour free tuning and then I'd have to pay their hourly rate. And it seems that all they have done is maf tuned, nothing really in the ve tables. So at this point I'm sol.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

well iirc a few on here only ve tune till like 3k rpm then let the maf take over to prevent fueling issues due to maxing out the ve table axis limits.

[Freakotec]

A log would be helpful but chances are the narrow band is failing/failed if your afr's are getting screwy when the car goes into closed loop.

From looking at the tune quick, a few things caught my attention. The max ve tables are jacked way the hell up, this is indeed purely a maf tune (seeing as how the dynamic tables are disabled), your ve tables right now are just a mildly messaged gms2 setup, the pe enable tables are screwy, dfco is completely disabled, your fans are cranked up too far, ect ect ect.

As far as idle goes, I personally prefer running off of the ve tables up to about 1500rpm or so, and then letting the maf take over from there. Some disagree with this method and prefer a pure maf based tune and completely disregard ve tuning entirely primarely due to it being the easiest and quickest way. I've tried both ways and I really think you can get a much smoother and consistant idle by dialing in your ve tables for idle, but again that's entirely preferance.... this is still assuming that your narrow band is in good shape btw.

[Cobalt_SSTuner]

I can post up a few logs when I get home. Sounds like I have some work to do.

[Cobalt_SSTuner]

Would having the ve tables dialed in be more efficient when cruising on the freeway and such or is maf tune enough?

[Freakotec]

It's entirely up to you how far you want to go with dialing in the ve table, but realistically the maf is totally fine for everything. I just personally like ve tuning for idle and then letting the maf take over after 1500rpm.