Great 2007 TBSS Tune inside

[BBA]

Updated...again.

You need the beta to open it. It's tuned on 93 octane Florida gas (~8-10% ethanol). IAT timing table is good for summer temps.

As always, MAF and VE coefficients are stock, if you MAF tuned yours, you can use your own tables.

[jetttstream]

The long awaited sequel!

I will try it out and let you know. I have greatly enjoyed the last 2007 version you posted last year.

-Mike

[markislive]

Very kind of you to share!

[HNK]

Smooth enough to drive around with a baby in the car. Runs great, all the complaints anyone might have are fixed, that's about all I can say other than it kicks ass.

You need the beta to open it. It's tuned on 93 octane Florida gas (~8-10% ethanol). The only tweaks that 'may' be needed, later on, would be to the IAT timing table when the summer temps come up, if any KR is seen at high IATs, but based on last years tune, should be pretty close.

If you try it and don't like it, something's wrong with you or you did not import all the changes.

You wouldnt happen to have one for an 07 Tahoe, 5.3 would you?

[BBA]

You wouldnt happen to have one for an 07 Tahoe, 5.3 would you?

Nope, sorry.

[JoeCiv]

stock 07 awd?

[BBA]

stock 07 awd?

AWD does not matter but mine is.

[hard_one]

Doood. Thank you for the update. The long awaited sequel to your version 1 tune.

I'll tweak the tune for 92 gas and give it a try. Will report back what I find.

Thanks.
John

[BBA]

You know...I realized, the PE multiplier may be too high unless you have mods. The best bet would be drive while logging calc torque load and adjust the PE multiplier down a few notches and compare logs until you get the best calculated torque. Mine came out around 1.185.

[dads07ss]

i can not open this. it keeps saying index was outside the bounds of array.

[BBA]

You need a new beta version.

[hard_one]

I'm so stupid but how do I change the octane down to 92?

I have only one mod - jettstream stage 3 intake. I need to log and adjust as you state above later but driving around in the cool Hawaii night (IAT = 84F) it can feel the difference in the tunes.

* 1 to 2 gear shift is smoother
* Big power gain in WOT in 1st gear and 2nd gear. (left marks on the road this time)
* TC is not longer present

I had a sh*t-ass grin after the 2nd brake stand.

I would like to know or see how you will change the IAT tables for summer time heat since I'm already experiencing it.

Thank you BBA.

[markislive]

I'm so stupid but how do I change the octane down to 92?

If your not getting KR I would leave the timing tables the way they are...

[Mike Norris]

Thanks for posting to say the least. I did some looking back and could not find what mods you currently have. Could you give a current mod list?

Mike Norris

[Iron Indian]

Nice! Would you by chance have a tune for 91 octane? Thats all I can get around here...

[BBA]

Thanks for posting to say the least. I did some looking back and could not find what mods you currently have. Could you give a current mod list?

Mike Norris

My mods: Stock, insulated MAF and increased air opening.

[dads07ss]

this tune is great i went from 9.10/77 mph 1700 da 1/8 mile to 8.73/80.97 2300 da. all that was done was removed superchips tune and loaded this tune. thanks bba

[IndyPete]

Is there a way to update this to 2.22?

[zippy performance]

I think the word "great" here is over used. Not going for an insult, but there is much to be improved on there.

Maybe I should elaborate at some stuff to look at.

Your part throttle shifts are too close together in upshift and downshift.

Your wide open rpm shifts are lower than stock. Because of the tight converter the higher shift point is needed to keep you in the powerband making more power. If I had an LS2 dynosheet at home I'd copy it and outline it in the graph for you.

Your shift timing on the 1-2 shift is increased and yet you have changed the force motor tables to give more line pressure. My only assumption is that you were getting a harsh 1-2 shift which would be caused by the changes made to the force motor calibration. There is no reason to change the calibration on the force motor tables. Lower the shift timing to your actual desired shift time to fix your shifting issue's. If anything you need a shift kit and some servo's, not a jacked up force motor table.

Your shift pressures for the 1-2 are stock pretty much which is suprising. You're better off adding a bit here rather than upping pressure via adjusting the force motor. Your 2-3 table has plenty added which is fine, but your 3-4 is rather agressive.

Adding more on the trans side of things. Something to consider here is that I see no changes at all to the v.e. tables. Not only is the v.e. table important for fueling, spark table, etc., but it's also important to have that correct since the pcm uses info from that table to determine torque output of the motor which in turn assists the computer in deciding what area of your trans tables to use. As you can see pressure, shift timing, etc., are torque based. When the v.e. table is correct your shifting will also improve considerably since the computer will have a better torque reading to decide how much pressure to command, shift timing to work with, tcc pwm to command, etc.

Your TCC part throttle settings have been changed, but don't match the wide open settings. If you were shooting to gain performance you wouldn't want the tcc to lock sooner at wide open, but in fact lock in much later under heavy throttle.

The torque reduction tables are very confusing. Downshift torque reduction is actually more important to keep if you are going to keep any at all since that is the biggest reason for a shortened life in the 60/65/70E's. You can drag race the hell out of them with great success, but street driving with alot of downshifts kills them. The amount you left in there isn't even enough to do anything. The upshift has torque management even at zero torque. At higher torque levels you have less torque reduction than lower torque numbers. That is certainly unusual and commonly only done because of agressive shifts which come from changing the force motor settings.

I'm curious as to why you would raise the idle a bit and yet lower the minimum idle airflow numbers?

I see that the mass airflow calibration is still stock. If you check the stock mass airflow calibration you'll find it is off even with the stock airbox/tube/filter, etc. I'm suprised you haven't modified this yet.

The same goes with the v.e. table. Even on a stock setup you'll find it to be off some. On a modified setup you'll find it to be much further off. Getting this dialed in will help with how well the transmission works, spark tables, throttle transitions, etc.

The power enrichment is set at 1.190 which sets your afr commanded at 12.33:1. This means you're either compensating for a miss calibrated mass air and or miss calibrated v.e. table. You'll make much more power with a considerably leaner afr. Also with E67's and E38 pcm's I wouldn't recomend setting your map requirement for p.e. that high as that can cause big delay's in p.e. coming in. It also can cause problems in higher altitudes to someone copying the tune since they may rarely get that good of air. The tps % on the E67's and E38's are also fussy and it's recomended to keep it as low as you can without having it come in while you're driving around.

If you're looking for a power increase I'd also recomend turning the C.O.T. enrichment off. You've already set the afr fat without the C.O.T. adding fuel. That will just reduce power further.

With the spark correction table under p.e. zero'd out and the current high octane spark table you have there is less timing under wide open than stock in some area's. You should be able to run more timing than what you have there, but you have a great base of what you were after. I'd highly recomend a set of NGK TR6's. I know a colder plug sounds odd, but trust me when I say I've spent alot of time with the LS2's and you'll find that they are no where near as touchy with the timing with the TR6. In fact on the dyno I've picked up 12RWHP on a completely stock LS2 by changing nothing other than the stock plugs to the TR6's and that was on the stock tune at that point.

Your IAT spark table is actually pretty damn good. I would change the multiplier a bit, but decent work there.


Overall don't take what I'm posting here as an insult, but my point is that if people are downloading this to use in their vehicle as a great upgrade, they need to understand it still needs plenty of work. These are just a few pointers to look at for version 3.

[BBA]

I think the word "great" here is over used. Not going for an insult, but there is much to be improved on there.

Maybe I should elaborate at some stuff to look at.

Your part throttle shifts are too close together in upshift and downshift.

Your wide open rpm shifts are lower than stock. Because of the tight converter the higher shift point is needed to keep you in the powerband making more power. If I had an LS2 dynosheet at home I'd copy it and outline it in the graph for you.

Your shift timing on the 1-2 shift is increased and yet you have changed the force motor tables to give more line pressure. My only assumption is that you were getting a harsh 1-2 shift which would be caused by the changes made to the force motor calibration. There is no reason to change the calibration on the force motor tables. Lower the shift timing to your actual desired shift time to fix your shifting issue's. If anything you need a shift kit and some servo's, not a jacked up force motor table.

Your shift pressures for the 1-2 are stock pretty much which is suprising. You're better off adding a bit here rather than upping pressure via adjusting the force motor. Your 2-3 table has plenty added which is fine, but your 3-4 is rather agressive.

Adding more on the trans side of things. Something to consider here is that I see no changes at all to the v.e. tables. Not only is the v.e. table important for fueling, spark table, etc., but it's also important to have that correct since the pcm uses info from that table to determine torque output of the motor which in turn assists the computer in deciding what area of your trans tables to use. As you can see pressure, shift timing, etc., are torque based. When the v.e. table is correct your shifting will also improve considerably since the computer will have a better torque reading to decide how much pressure to command, shift timing to work with, tcc pwm to command, etc.

Your TCC part throttle settings have been changed, but don't match the wide open settings. If you were shooting to gain performance you wouldn't want the tcc to lock sooner at wide open, but in fact lock in much later under heavy throttle.

The torque reduction tables are very confusing. Downshift torque reduction is actually more important to keep if you are going to keep any at all since that is the biggest reason for a shortened life in the 60/65/70E's. You can drag race the hell out of them with great success, but street driving with alot of downshifts kills them. The amount you left in there isn't even enough to do anything. The upshift has torque management even at zero torque. At higher torque levels you have less torque reduction than lower torque numbers. That is certainly unusual and commonly only done because of agressive shifts which come from changing the force motor settings.

I'm curious as to why you would raise the idle a bit and yet lower the minimum idle airflow numbers?

I see that the mass airflow calibration is still stock. If you check the stock mass airflow calibration you'll find it is off even with the stock airbox/tube/filter, etc. I'm suprised you haven't modified this yet.

The same goes with the v.e. table. Even on a stock setup you'll find it to be off some. On a modified setup you'll find it to be much further off. Getting this dialed in will help with how well the transmission works, spark tables, throttle transitions, etc.

The power enrichment is set at 1.190 which sets your afr commanded at 12.33:1. This means you're either compensating for a miss calibrated mass air and or miss calibrated v.e. table. You'll make much more power with a considerably leaner afr. Also with E67's and E38 pcm's I wouldn't recomend setting your map requirement for p.e. that high as that can cause big delay's in p.e. coming in. It also can cause problems in higher altitudes to someone copying the tune since they may rarely get that good of air. The tps % on the E67's and E38's are also fussy and it's recomended to keep it as low as you can without having it come in while you're driving around.

If you're looking for a power increase I'd also recomend turning the C.O.T. enrichment off. You've already set the afr fat without the C.O.T. adding fuel. That will just reduce power further.

With the spark correction table under p.e. zero'd out and the current high octane spark table you have there is less timing under wide open than stock in some area's. You should be able to run more timing than what you have there, but you have a great base of what you were after. I'd highly recomend a set of NGK TR6's. I know a colder plug sounds odd, but trust me when I say I've spent alot of time with the LS2's and you'll find that they are no where near as touchy with the timing with the TR6. In fact on the dyno I've picked up 12RWHP on a completely stock LS2 by changing nothing other than the stock plugs to the TR6's and that was on the stock tune at that point.

Your IAT spark table is actually pretty damn good. I would change the multiplier a bit, but decent work there.


Overall don't take what I'm posting here as an insult, but my point is that if people are downloading this to use in their vehicle as a great upgrade, they need to understand it still needs plenty of work. These are just a few pointers to look at for version 3.

I should have mentioned a few things like this tune uses stock MAF and VE so use your own, like I did in all the others. I also found I got carried away onreducing KR, maybe just the gas around here. I went back more to my older tune for timing tables and got the summer gas power back now. Basically, at least here, winter gas sucks.

As for trans shift tables, I tried stock, modified settings in every cell and altogether and the TBSS just does not shift right in all conditions. (The 700r4 has ALWAYS been a shitty trans design, electronic or not, beefed up or not).

I finally got the trans pretty damn smooth all around but I had to disable adaptives to do it. (in this tune posted now)

As for shift speeds, that's hit or miss for what you want to shift like. If you ever drove a stock shift table TBSS you would know you can not drive to the local store without hitting 6400 RPM just lane changing, and at that your letting off the gas and waiting for it to shift. The stock shift RPM's are junk and don't even talk about keeping it in the power band above 6200 RPM. Although my shift points are 6400 RPM.

As for TCC, I do not want it on at WOT, great way to burn up a stock TCC. However, I did want it to turn on sooner at lower speeds. Hence the stock WOT TCC settigns it has.

I understand all your points but it does not sound like you have lived with a TBSS for 3 or 4 years or you would understand a little more the why of how it is.

As for making more power leaner, again, you do not have a TBSS that you actually drive, or you have not run them with different PE values (I bet you own a Dyno).