Controlling violent low-speed drivability

[Kelp]

Trying to make a powerful road-race n/a LS7 engine drivable under low-speed conditions. The problem is compounded with the light reciprocating mass engine, a 100 mm throttle body (with weird LS1 TPSs), extreme cam, an on/off Fidanza dual-disc clutch/flywheel. Very touchy. I gotten it to start and idle nicely. Tends to engage and runaway at the slightest throttle touch. Great on the track, difficult otherwise.

The most successful settings (I have tried many unsuccessful settings) are reducing throttle Area Rate Limits 100 > 1, and adding back Torque Management which I reduced to 75 ft/lbs below 2500 RPM. Further considerations were pulling timing or fuel control. I am hoping someone is in the same boat and am open to innovative ideas.

[BBA]

I had the same problem with my old carb C3, had to add a linkage addition to the carb throttle shaft to get more gas pedal travel. Same principle would apply, you would have to fabricate something for the throttle to make a longer lever on the pedal.

[Racecar]

This must be an awesome car. How much cam? How much HP does it make? I have an LS3 with a 233/239 cam that has an aluminum flywheel. It takes some revs to get it moving from a stop sign. It has always run strong, making it street drivable is difficult.
Is your VE table tuned for this engine? Have you scanned and dialed it in for lower rpm. What about timing? I made changes to the throttle area table, that really made mine more better at low rpm. I had a clutch that I had to dump to keep it from chattering, now I have a sweet dual disc. That makes the takeoff easier.

[Kelp]

It's my science project, self engineered. No dyno results yet. Cam is 248/267 .651/.613 112+4. 12.5 SCR 9.8 DCR. 93 octane E10. Heads by Richard at WCCH block by Steve at RED. Dayton sleeves, and a 1/2" SS bearing torque plate. Quench is .035. Usual bolt-ons, except the steam ventilation and oil cooling system is changed. Anyway...

I spend 18 hrs this weekend and changed ETC min, Idle adapt underspeed, overspeed, integral and proportional, Final Idle Airflow, ETC scalar and Max. Now it starts and idles like a lamb, cold and warm. I still have to check out low speed driving, but I think the scalar tamed that a little.

The MAF and PE is still tuned but the MAF is still off, of course the O2s read useless with this cam. No stinky idle. Happy with the MAP down to 61 considering the overlap. Tried a CL idle but was undrivable. Is running full MAF. The MAF is calibrated as much as I could, but the AFRs are where they need to me for a variety of conditions. Still filtering for KR. Not the usual LS7.

[Kelp]

Since you asked, I got curious. Yesterday's datalog times power ratio of engine no. 1 on dyno yields two results, 595, and 640 rwhp, the latter being more dependable. It is also supports the design to produce north of 700 engine HP. I have close to a 15% drivetrain loss, extrapolating fwhp to 684/736.

Tonight's low speed drive test was also better. I wanted to have my girlfriend drive it on Prime Drive for NCM at VIR in June, but she does not want to.

[Racecar]

Wow, that is one killer project car. Sounds like you have put a lot of work into it.
My C5 LS3 with an LS6 top end makes 480rwhp, I thought that was fast, you are way beyond that. I am SD tuned and recently turned off my LTFT and it runs good except idle keeps getting richer the longer it idles. In one minute it will creep down from 15 A/F to 12. I am going to try some of your idle tuning tricks to see if I can make a difference.
Maybe my STFT O2 are not getting a good signal and just keep adding more fuel??

[Racecar]

IAT intake air temp? and what is bias? There are so many tables and so little information on how to adjust, I'm lost. If you can give me more info, I will check it out.

Sorry to jack your thread Kelp, but it sounds like you are running better.