What would cause O2's not to cycle?

[PerformanceTurbo]

I've been trying to hunt down a poor mileage issue. The O2's arent cycling at idle, however, the cycle nicely while driving. Bank one at idle will show very lean and start dumpin fuel, which in city driving, is killing gas mileage. The bank 1 O2 is a brand new Bosch also. It does it with a tune from RPM in, as well as a stock tune. I replaced the header gasket since it showed signs of leaking, and checked for other leaks, but none found.
Any ideas?

[KFZ)^]

Sounds like your tune needs more tuning. It's hard to help much if you don't post your config file, your tune file, and at least one log file.

[PerformanceTurbo]

Here's a link to the log and config files...
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27164
I doubt I need to post a tune, as mentioned earlier, nothing changed when reverted back to stock, so Im guessing its mechanical. I will pull the old tune though, and post it later..

[jimmypop13]

I discovered through 2 pair of Bosch o2's that they suck. Mine were causing me to run around 16:1 at idle and cruising. I had to up the switching voltage to 526 just get it somewhat in line but it was still going lean a lot. I bumped up the numbers higher but then my car started running funky. Do you have a wideband? Maybe you are having a similar issue

[blazzard]

I was given a 04 sensor once instead of an 05, same plug but wouldn't cycle. bought an 05 worked great. Not a fan of bosch, I like the denso's. Double check the part numbers.

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

Careful though. I have run Denso on my car and they were the worst o2 sensor I have ever used.

[PerformanceTurbo]

The 02's are the right ones. I have never had issues in the 20+ Bosch's I have bought, so I dont think the issue lies there.

[Whiterhino]

I have ran Bosch, Denso, Walker, pretty much all brands. Some are rebranded/named as most know. I've had issues with them all. I'm running Bosch's in my new set-up and tuning for the first time over the last few months.

Seems like the closer the tune, the better they switch. I am starting to believe that a lot of the issues are in the tuning. With my old set-up and three different paid tunes, my o2's would randomly fail or stop switching for periods of time. No matter what brand. The new ones haven't flat lined yet.

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

I see the 13111 run shitty and after they swap to another set they run fine. Some of those crappy o2s don't matter how good the tune is, they still won't like to switch.

[PerformanceTurbo]

I think I may have found the issue. I dont know why I didnt see it earlier, but the car had a Autometer AFR gauge (yes the one that produces a fabulous dancing light show). I took the wire tap off the 02 harness and it seemed to help. The Bank 1 02 is moving pretty nicely at idle. BUt now, the problem has seemed to reverse over to Bank 2. The LTFT's are normal, but it just isnt cycling.
I may have found another issue I need to hunt down. The whole body of the car has an electrical charge. I get zapped every now and then, and whenever I touch a wrench to metal on the frame, I can see a little spark..

[PerformanceTurbo]

Ok, so through some vigilant research (and sifting through alot of bullshit about people saying Bosch's suck, which is untrue), a few contributing factors could cause this issue. One is aftermarket header, which dissipate alot of heat, and move the forward O2 sensor farther from the engine, may cause the O2 sensor not to heat up sufficiently and therefore not switch like they should at idle. When engine RPMs are up, and the exhaust flow is high, this problem goes away.
Another issue (which is the case I am experiencing) is with a bad tune, or bad injectors, excessive fuel can saturate the sensors, causing them not to heat up sufficiently. Usually once they get saturated, you can try your luck at cleaning them, but usually the best course of action is to replace them.
My next question is other than the IFR, what else can I change to lower the DC or flow rate at idle with these 42lb injectors?