Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Big cam stall issue when putting in gear

  1. #1
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    307

    Big cam stall issue when putting in gear

    Need some advice gentlemen. Working on truck with a blown 6.0 and a 4L80e tranny. Unfortunately someone tuned this race motor poorly and it never ran well so the customer decided to supercharged it...not sure the logic on this one, but who am I to judge. So now the truck is mostly tuned with one real issue. When I put her in gear the rpm drop significantly and it wants to die.

    Some truck info:
    built motor (10.5:1cr)
    big cam (238/240 @.050 with 112* lsa)
    4l80e tranny with 2800stall

    truck idles ok, a bit rough for my taste but what can you do. Problem is that I need to fix the stalling. The truck came in barely running so I don't even have a good starting point other than a bone stock tune. What will address the rpm drop when engaging the drive gears? Please help me help this poor guy.

    As always, thanks for contributing to my learning curve and this por guy getting a decent running truck back.

  2. #2
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Forney, TX
    Posts
    982
    Does Tex mean you're in Texas? I'm in the Dallas area. If you're close you can bring it by and I'm sure we can get it right.
    Post your tune and a scan with the problem occurring. Would be nice to see STIT's, STFT's, wideband, spark advance, 02's TPS% and all the other basics.
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.

  3. #3
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    307
    Good questions. No I'm in California.

    Fuel trims less than 5%. Timing smooth between idle and light load, no transitional timing spikes or fluctuations. The only real problem is that when the tranny goes into gear the rpms drop significantly (like 500+ rpm). It feels like a tight converter. But the rpm returns after a couple seconds and runs fine after that.

    After reading several threads it sounds like an IAC or throttle cracker adjustment but I can't seem to get it. Can't post the tune til Friday when I get back to the shop. I was hoping to have an idea before getting there

  4. #4
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Forney, TX
    Posts
    982
    Do you have Park and Drive Base running airflow tables?
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    307
    It would seem weird that its an airflow issue when it is such a temporary issue. But I don't know, I will have check to see if it has the different airflow tables

  6. #6
    Advanced Tuner blownbluez06's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Forney, TX
    Posts
    982
    If you have real time tuning available, put it in drive and adjust your idle spark table and run Russ K's idle config in drive from a cold start and put those values in the RAF. If there isn't a drive RAF table, maybe you can try splitting the difference between what you get in the idle config in drive and what you have currently loaded in the RAF.

    And post your tune!
    Hsquared racing engines RHS 427, Procharger F2, Moran Billet Atomizer injectors, Alky Control,Mast LS7 heads, Nitrous outlet kit,Tilton quad disc clutch, DSS shaft, RKT56 ZR1 trans, RPM Quaife diff. Built and tuned by yours truly.