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Thread: A/C air turning hot when stuck in traffic

  1. #1
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    A/C air turning hot when stuck in traffic

    Is there anyone out there that know's if there is a tuning parameter to prevent the A/C air turning hot when stuck in traffic? The IAT get's up to about 180 area and then the air still runs but is just all hot.
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  2. #2
    To be honest that doesn't sound tune related at all (assuming that the tune isn't disengaging the A/C clutch) , it sounds like an A/C efficiency issue to me, again assuming the clutch is staying engaged. How is the gas level/pressure etc and is there no chance that the heater isn't stuck in any way, shape or form. Either way it would be a PITA, hope you get it sorted

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSUte01 View Post
    To be honest that doesn't sound tune related at all (assuming that the tune isn't disengaging the A/C clutch) , it sounds like an A/C efficiency issue to me, again assuming the clutch is staying engaged. How is the gas level/pressure etc and is there no chance that the heater isn't stuck in any way, shape or form. Either way it would be a PITA, hope you get it sorted
    The pressure was in the 3volt range and the A/C does work great until I get stuck in traffic going 0-10MPH for 20 minutes or so.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktoonsez View Post
    The pressure was in the 3volt range and the A/C does work great until I get stuck in traffic going 0-10MPH for 20 minutes or so.
    My truck does the same exact thing! I was going to try and figure it out this summer sometime.
    2017 Silverado LTZ

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    Electric Fans Or Mechanical Viscous?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneakyws6 View Post
    Electric Fans Or Mechanical Viscous?
    If that was for me, it is one big electrical fan.
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  7. #7
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    You Can Adjust The Fan Kick On Temps, Both In Reality Once You Turn On The Ac All Fans In The System Should Turn On.

    Sounds Like The Ac Evaporator Is Getting Heat Soaked And Not Getting Enough Cool Air Over It To Be Able To Cool The Ac Charge Off Enough.

    Have You Thought About Putting A 160° Thermostat In The Vehicle Yet?

  8. #8
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    Have a 160 stat in there, I am in AZ, 105+ degree temps outside so the air is already very hot. I run my radiator fan at 30% at al times and 90% at 196. Remember, I am stuck in traffic in this situation so no air is moving. As soon as I get the car going 20-30 MPH for at least 20 seconds or so, the cool air comes back.
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  9. #9
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    Think I might have found something not sure though since the temps here in phoenix have dropped 10 degrees in the last week. Found a loose fuse under the hood labeled Emmissions EVAP, not sure what it does but have not had the problem in last 2 days but the outside temps have been way down.
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  10. #10
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    Have you checked the commanded duty cycle for the cooling fan when A/C temps rise? I would expect to see it at 90%. The PCM will raise the duty cycle when A/C demands rise, based on system pressure. The EVAP fuse protects the EVAP purge solenoid. It controls the fuel tank vent going to the intake manifold. The two are unrelated.
    '08 TBSS - ProCharged | '09 G8 GT

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyLS1Hauls View Post
    Have you checked the commanded duty cycle for the cooling fan when A/C temps rise? I would expect to see it at 90%. The PCM will raise the duty cycle when A/C demands rise, based on system pressure. The EVAP fuse protects the EVAP purge solenoid. It controls the fuel tank vent going to the intake manifold. The two are unrelated.
    Thanks for that, the radiator fan was at 90%, Coolant was about 210*.
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    You may have already checked but my 08 collects bugs very quickly in the condensor. The fan only pulls air though the area of the shroud portion of the radiator. Forward motion air pushes through the entire radiator. Might account for cooling when moving.

  13. #13
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    Yes I did, condensor is pretty clean.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktoonsez View Post
    condensor is pretty clean.
    Bent fins on the condensor will block it too. I periodically clean and straighten mine.

  15. #15
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    ive had a few C6's do this after adding un-coated headers. some vettes had the freon overcharged from GM. there was a bulletin on it. quick fix was hold valve and let some freon out.

    if ur really getting iat's of 180* it's time to consider a better cai. i prefer vararam for all my installs.

    hope this helps
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  16. #16
    Log your fan commanded % and see what is is running at when the AC warms up. Then give it more fan in the AC fan tables. Shift the values over to the left by 1 column and matching the top value in the right most box is a good starting point. Then look for any hot air recirculation paths like the gap over the top of the radiator my Trailblazer had. Plug with pipe insulation foam...

    The more fan speed will help as GM likes to be conservative on fan settings - that kill the AC over 105 degrees out. 134A just dies over 100 unless you get the condenser cooled down. Mine runs at 160 degrees so it is possible to cool it in 120 degree weather. Running hot radiator air back over the condenser causes AC to warm up with ECT and kills it's performance. Ask me how I know...

    Last, add a pusher fan to the side of the radiator that doesn't have fan coverage. Wire it to come on with the AC clutch.
    Last edited by WarWagon; 06-12-2009 at 01:36 AM.

  17. #17
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    Thanks for all the idea's Warwagon. My fan table is raised very aggressively, first 2 fields are 30, the rest are 90 so I am maximizing fan utilization.
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  18. #18
    My guess is that you have TOO MUCH pressure in your A/C system.

    My GTO did that, and I found it was overcharged by the guy who installed my cam. It would work fine until I hit stop & go traffic, then the extra heat would cause the A/C pressure switch to trip. If your

    FWIW, be very, very careful working with refrigerant. If you do decide to discharge it yourself, wear thick gloves, eye protection, and skin protection. I suggest you take it to an A/C shop to have them check the pressure. I purchased a set of gages from AutoZone and fixed it myself. It freezes me out of the car now.

    Gerry
    Last edited by ShoddyHog; 06-12-2009 at 12:43 PM.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShoddyHog View Post
    My guess is that you have TOO MUCH pressure in your A/C system.

    My GTO did that, and I found it was overcharged by the guy who installed my cam. It would work fine until I hit stop & go traffic, then the extra heat would cause the A/C pressure switch to trip. If your

    FWIW, be very, very careful working with refrigerant. If you do decide to discharge it yourself, wear thick gloves, eye protection, and skin protection. I suggest you take it to an A/C shop to have them check the pressure. I purchased a set of gages from AutoZone and fixed it myself. It freezes me out of the car now.

    Gerry
    A/C pressure is fine, just had it at the dealer 2 months ago to get it looked at and they put it to the new level standard. Did a log yesterday on the pressure switch, reads about 2.8 moving around on the highway and never got over 3.1 stopped for a few minutes at a light.
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  20. #20
    Well, that sucks. I don't have any further suggestions -- if the compressor is still engaged, then it just sounds like an efficiency issue.

    Gerry
    06 M6 GTO - L92 Heads - Flowtech AK-47 cam - ported LS3 intake - ported TB - Kooks 1 7/8 - Cats - SVEDE OTR CAI - H-Pipe - Flowmaster Super 40s