maybe they finally did fix the issue in the LM1 or they broke it and started doing something different after you got yoursOriginally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
Interesting, mine does not have that issue. Must just be lucky
all I know is the one I had I didnt trust further than I could throw a stick....
as a matter of fact I threw the LM1 once.....
the LC1 is a lost cause in my opinion....
-Scott -
I got mine back in 2005 I think.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
I was throwing mine in 2002...
they might have fixed most of the issue on the LM1
but I know the LC1 is still a problem....
cant tel you how many posts I see on here about LC1 offset issues
hell...you know.....you're on here as much as me
-Scott -
haha yeah
My issues with the LC1 had to do with overheating, it was a PITA. EGTs were low yet it would overheat. Bastards said it was OK
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
haha yeah
My issues with the LC1 had to do with overheating, it was a PITA. EGTs were low yet it would overheat. Bastards said it was OK
yeah...I had that problem too....
showed them in person....
their solution was to give me an HBX-1
they need to give it to everybody that buys any of their wideband products
it helped some...but not in all situations...
if they made a better controller it wouldnt have the overheating issues..
-Scott -
I have had some offset issues with my LC1 but I am trying to get them straightened out but other than that the POS hasn't overheated or just taken a complete shit on me yet.
BTW soundengineer did you ever get my pm?
2017 Silverado LTZ
I dont remember....theres been a barrage of PM's lately...send me something again and I'll try to respond
-Scott -
Alright. I have the LC-1. I bought it before hearing the opinions on here. I wish I didnt but I did. So I am trying to make it not have the grounding issues that I have heard of on here. Here are the steps I took.
I bought a distribution block and ran 10 guage wire from the second negative battery post on my Optima. On the block I have 4 ports, I installed all my grounds on two of the ports. Soldered all wires with heat shrink. I hope this to be the best way to ground this finicky grounded sensor. What to you guys think? I will post a picture of exhaust bung and where its welded if that might help you guys give you opinion if this sensor is going to have heating issue's. I really hope not because I spent quite abit of money trying to get this LC-1 right.
You can see the bung welded behind the exhaust clamp. Give opinions if you have them. Thanks alot.
if you are within about 12 inches of the meeting point of the exhauts in the collector...its a posibility of having heat issues...
your best solution is to either make or buy a heatsink
buying option is also made by innovate...its called an HBX1
making is cutting some copper sheeting, drilling a center hole to fit the nozzle of the 02 thru and having several layers to act as cooling fins
-Scott -
Yea, I planned on doing that. They have it in the directions. I see no reason not to. Pretty cheap and easy. Can that reduce my chances of having problems with this sensor? I will be doi g it for sure.
What do you think about my ground situtaion? You told me PCM ground, I heard from Frost Either PCM ground or Battery ground was the best. I Heard of the ground distribution block from a LS1 buddy and finally found one. Trying to make this LC-1 work the best I can. The bung is welded in about 12 to 14 inchs away from the collector. When I make the cooper heat sink, should I face the heat sink TOWARDS the header collector? Can I surround the sensor with copper heat sink TOO much? I would be willing to make more of a heat sink that covered more area if it meant I would have a longer life sensor. Thanks alot.
I suggest making it at least 18" or further if you can...
the heat sink is not towards or away...
its a flat piece of copper with a hole big enough to stick the o2 tip through...
the copper itself will end up parallel to the exhaust pipes....
I made one once...
3 pieces of 3" square copper sheeting...
hole directly through the center of all 3...
all 3 stacked up...outer ones slightly bent to seperate them from the middle piece...
jam the o2 through the hole and into the exhaust bung....
crank it down tight....
-Scott -
heres from the innovate website....
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...1&d=1179724682
hmmm.......telling people your product needs a heatsink when most others do not....
to me...thats a bad sign...LOL
-Scott -
I am not arguing with one whatsoever that this LC-1 needing a heat sink is BS. I wish I got on this forum before I made the purchase. Thats my fault for not looking into my product reviews, like I usually do. Well, I am going to make the best heat sink I can, and install the guage tomorrow and hope for the best. You will HOPEFULLY be seeing me back here with a bunch of AFR and tuning questions. I have learned alot from other LS1 members allowing me to call them and discuss this complicated program.
What a hobby it is! Thanks for your help.
when you make the heatsink...take a few pics to show the rest of the people on here...
I would post pics of mine...but that was so long ago..and I'm sure I dont have them any more....
-Scott -
The heat sink sounds like a good idea, seems like it would help out the like span of the 02 sensor, (a good idea for dyno work), why exactly does Innovate recommend this, seems like if the 02 has issues with the heat, it is the sensors fault, not the WB meter.
the heat sink sucks, tried it on mine, still overheated
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
It's not the sensor's fault; it's heater's control is a function of the wideband controller itself.
well, shit. I want some good news about installing this POS.
Still have to at least try. How about some links to better wideband. Maybe the ones that the majority here use?
Here ya go! This kit comes with the upgraded NTK sensor instead of the cheaper Bosch sensor.well, shit. I want some good news about installing this POS.
Still have to at least try. How about some links to better wideband. Maybe the ones that the majority here use?
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/582
This is what I am getting ready to upgrade to!Here ya go! This kit comes with the upgraded NTK sensor instead of the cheaper Bosch sensor.
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/582
2017 Silverado LTZ
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