I also use an xcal and the mother of all dodgy home made knock boxes. I rely on the xcal as years of working around heavy equipment has left me somewhat immune to the frequencies that knock occur in
I also use an xcal and the mother of all dodgy home made knock boxes. I rely on the xcal as years of working around heavy equipment has left me somewhat immune to the frequencies that knock occur in
it would keep the power more consistant when you have different temp days? I can have a car that will spin 3rd gear on a nice cool night and only just spin second a bit when its 45deg outside.Originally Posted by 45T-XR
i went for a drive in a ba the guy has the process west s3 cooler and throttle body relocation and under battery intake, his intake temps were within a few degs of mine. I have a 500x400x90 $300 china cooler and throttle body relocation and 3inch battery side intake. I was surprised i thought the pw stuff would be a lot better.
It does definately help yes. Guys in the USA still run water meth with E85 in bracket racing to help with consistancy
Don't just look at temp look closely at how the cooler responds to the demands your placing on it.
I tend to see a 2-3 deg decrease in intake temps with my nizzer cooler and once off the throttle they climb back up (coolers working as a heat sink obviously) but the temp across a power run remains stable. This is a much easier situation to deal with than a cooler than allows temps to creep up
04 Velocity MKII M6 & 06 BF F6 555 ZF6
Greatest Posts I have ever read, just starting out myself, done all the usual mods,TS 12 PSI WGA, 35mm Flapper porting, hi speed VSR balance of turbo, Full 4-3.5" exhaust, 60lb siemens injectors, Battery moved to under guard, 4" Plazmaman Intake , Walbro 400 lph pump, Stage 2 550 x 450 x 100 FMIC, 3 inch cold side 2.5" hot side piping. Iridium plugs , now to tune it all. No dyno here either, I do have LM2 wide band in extraO2 port on downpipe. and plenty of time. This is in my 07 Rspec Manual Typhoon. Feel free to send me all your tune files.
^Pics?
04 Velocity MKII M6 & 06 BF F6 555 ZF6
20130906_210922.jpg20130906_211131.jpg20131109_114151.jpg
And some more. now just to figure out how to attach a hpt file to here... those are the old injectors BTW
MyRspecF6Typhoon - Alterwheelsize.hpt figured it out, IE crashes my PC so Chrome came to the rescue...sort of...
i have some decent scaling for 60lb deka's, but unless the injector pic is the "after" pic they aren't deka's
04 Velocity MKII M6 & 06 BF F6 555 ZF6
Thanks Hiddeous, Yes those are the oldies, forgot to get a photo of the new ones now too hard to get to a decent photo of them. I am a little concerned that there may be different quality siemens injectors around. I got mine years ago and now the company is out of business.
I will be interested in the scaling info as mine are all over the place obviously got the wrong pulse width or breakpoint seems to sit a little rich for about 40 seconds then levels out to 1.00 AFR from about 0.75 only smells rich, then on coast mode at low speed it will trip up and down between 1.00 AFR and back to 0.75 , seems to make reasonable power but a concern that fuel is unstable before I wish to start on Boost and spark etc anyway.
The Low and Hi Slope tables are I assume not that much different than factory, I thought about just using a multiplier to go from the factory to the 60 lb injector for the Voltage offset but again just been a suck and see so far. (with not much luck I might add)
Plenty of talk about doing it all in Air Speed density but again if the injectors cannot be right I see little point in making adjustments there first..
just surprised he has simliar setup to me which cost prob about 2k and my setup i made all myself and cost prob way less then half that, and end of the day the temps were pretty much the same. mine is the same when you are low throttle then go wot it cools down a few deg before it creeps up.
his setup was the same as mine it was in the mid 30s and his intake temps cruising were around 45deg cruising, which was about what mine was 45-47deg. whats the norm for temps how much should they be above outside? my other car turbo 2ltr vitara with china t3/t4 and stock fg plastic intercooler it always sits around 1-2deg higher then outside. the temp sensor is just before the throttle body tho compared to the falcon in the hot alloy plenum. the fg cooler isnt all that great tho 18second run the temp went from 34deg to 59deg running 12psi. i think my $190 turbo prob isnt all that efficient at that boost tho.
Bigmat, where did you get that cooler from?
heres some pics of my ute,, also my old au falcon that i put a barra in and ran it off the au ecu. has run a 12.9 with 75shot of nos. also my other car turbo grand vitara baby barra with the turbo on the wrong side
something else i built turbo zx6r and my tramp rods i made for the ute
Hi,
I'm looking for a bit of help. I have a AC Cobra with a BF 260 Boss Engine. The engine has been rebuilt, but stock except high tensile head bolts. It also has very custom headers I made, they are different left to right, the LH bank has a 4-1-4 90 deg to the head, with the O2 sensor under the join (the 1 part). The RH (drivers) is 4 - 1 -4 but pointing 45 forward (to clear the booster), the O2 sensor close to the head in a single pipe about 40mm from the head. It's running a cold air intake with K+N filter in the cool air in front of the rad. I've got a custom tune in there, with very basic changes, a bit more spark, up the idle, turned off the rear o2 sensors (deleted). It runs stock looms etc and a ZF trans. I've been playing with some of the cold start parameters, and found some improvement in idle quality, but mostly the same issue. A very slight pop in the side pipe. My issues are:
1. When I log the engine I get no MAP signal, I've checked the wires and bought second hard MAP sensor, no change. What am I doing wrong?
2. When logging the engine its possible to see the LH and RH banks are doing different things in STFT. Is this normal?
3. One O2 sensor is flat, the other is jumping around. Is this normal?
Nathan
Last edited by sevenohms; 11-19-2013 at 05:18 AM.
Have you altered the transport delay for the 02 sensor on the bank with the 02 sensor closer to the head?
I would suggest measuring the distance for each on a set of stock headers and make and approximate change to the delays based upon the new locations.
As for MAP sensor are you adding it to the main table display in the scanner? If so shoot [email protected] an email with the tune and calibration/software details and they should be able to add it.
Where are you located?
04 Velocity MKII M6 & 06 BF F6 555 ZF6
Hi all,
Workmate of mine put me on to this forum he just brought Hp to tune his VX LS1.
I'm contemplating buy this software for my 03 BA turbo it's currently tuned with sct x3 but I'm having issues with (have had the same issue since I brought the car) it and my tuner very reputable one in Sydney hasn't been able to work it out and I'm at my wits end with it so thinking I might just try myself.
But I'll ask if anyone has come across this before my set up first,
nizpro valve springs
ID1000 injectors
Plazmaman 1000hp inter cooler
4 inch air intake
FG turbo manifold
MTA high flowed turbo
4 inch dump pipe
5 inch 100cell cat
twin 2 1/2 inch exhaust
surge tank (single 044)
walbro intank
TCE 2800 stall (built 4 speed)
Greddy profex B boost controller
think that's everything lol, now the issue the tune itself besides the issue is great the car performs well and goes like a cut cat makes anywhere between 330 and 350rwkw on the dyno and has run a 11.8@118mph
the issue is its holding the throttle closed at 3100 and wont open further for anywhere between 1-3 seconds then it will "surge" open and close the throttle rapidly till close to or on 4000rpm.
If I take off flat to the floor this doesn't occur but it I take off normally shifts into 2nd then accelerate just a bit under half throttle it will rev up to 3000rpm and stop no matter how much I push the throttle then either surge or snap to full throttle and just about kill me. Now this is semi intermittent sometimes it does it nearly everytime other times it will just surge makes it really annoying when you trying to over take and starts surging
I've owned this car since 2008 and it was modified when I brought it and it surged then but didn't hold the throttle closed that's a more recent thing after the last tune, I've tried everything I can think of to work this out changed throttle body,PCM checked wiring the only thing I haven't done is the pedal.
I'm sure its in the tune though cause like I said it got worse after the last tune and my tuner ripped his hair trying to work out why its doing it and wasn't able to (my car was there for 4 months) it seems worse in colder weather but surges quicker on hotter days it will hold throttle for longer the surge slower if that makes sense, does it in any gear 2nd up in normal,sports or manual mode i'm at a loss after 5 yrs I just want it fixed!
that's why i'm thinking about hp have a go myself and work it out from what I've read hp will still work with my car even though its sct tuned.
If anyone has any idea or suggestion or a tuner on here wants to have ago at fixing it I'm open to suggestions I've paid for 3 tunes and still got nowhere. by no means am I bagging my tuner he's done his best I know and like I said the car goes great otherwise, just this issue has him stumped and me frustrated.
Thanks
