PLX Gauge And Hptuners Doesn't matched ? wtf?

[jegten]

Yes (or copy and create another) but only for idle tuning since you know it is accurate when moving and not accurate at idle.......Are you sure it is off at idle?

thanks! that makes sense. i can do that.
i am more sure than not. i lifted the laptop next to the gauge, and saw the discrepancy. (i was parked, btw lol) then, i gave it some gas, and noticed how it then matched.

[1.8t]

Does anyone else have to re-edit their formula to match up HPT to their display before every tuning session?

I have an NGK AFX powered and grounded directly from the battery, which makes matching to HPT very easy. I crank the car and give it a quick rev and then shut her down. I have the power for the AFX controled with a dash mounted switch. I just leave the wideband powered on when the car shuts down and then match the figure in the HPT reading to the display when the a/f stabilizes.

Before every tuning session, I usually have to add or subtract as much as .05 from my equation to make the figures match.

Edit: I meant .05, not .5

[jackedupcanyon]

When was the last time it was calibrated? Also how long did you allow it to warm up? The NGK AFX recommends up to 45 minutes. The longer, the more accurate.

[1.8t]

Calibrated recently and allowed to warm up for ~ 60min or so. It seems like the voltage is always varying ever so slightly.

[Brice]

Well. it was not a debate about is my PLX accurate.

Just : HP TUNER READINGS IS OFF (0.3) compared to the PLX gauge.
It's when the engine if Off.

When it's on (idle or not), the AFR move so fast that it's impossible to check.

[jackedupcanyon]

Well. it was not a debate about is my PLX accurate.

Just : HP TUNER READINGS IS OFF (0.3) compared to the PLX gauge.
It's when the engine if Off.

When it's on (idle or not), the AFR move so fast that it's impossible to check.

Still a difference between the PLX and HPT immediately after calibration? Calibrate in free air or in the bung?