How do I reduce timing, I want to reduce 2* for my No2 set up, currently have no KR, but when I use the spray I get 2-3* of KR at higher rmps, do I go under the low and high octane tables and minus 2* from the whole table?
Thankyou for you help.
How do I reduce timing, I want to reduce 2* for my No2 set up, currently have no KR, but when I use the spray I get 2-3* of KR at higher rmps, do I go under the low and high octane tables and minus 2* from the whole table?
Thankyou for you help.
PB... [email protected]'@1.807 no nos.
Zzp 1.9 rockers,42.5 lucus injectors,poly motor mounts 3.2", custom K/N FWI, Autolite 104s, 180*t-stat, DHP PCM, Pacesetter headers, 3" down pipe, highflow cat, 3'' exhaust to bullet mufflers. Zex dry kit with 75 shot, thrasher throttlebody spacer, Stage 2 dynotech race tranny, 3.29s, 15/16s chain, hardened imput shaft, 3000 pro torque converter.
Just subtract the timing from where you spray and only do the high octane. You shouldn't be using the low octane table.
2005 Grand Prix GTP
My CarDomain Page
Thank you for your help, so I would only adjust the higher rmp numbers where I get the knock?
PB... [email protected]'@1.807 no nos.
Zzp 1.9 rockers,42.5 lucus injectors,poly motor mounts 3.2", custom K/N FWI, Autolite 104s, 180*t-stat, DHP PCM, Pacesetter headers, 3" down pipe, highflow cat, 3'' exhaust to bullet mufflers. Zex dry kit with 75 shot, thrasher throttlebody spacer, Stage 2 dynotech race tranny, 3.29s, 15/16s chain, hardened imput shaft, 3000 pro torque converter.
how much timming are you commanding?
i wouldn't use alot of timming on nitrous, 14 or so.
nitrous has a large cooling effect, so it shouldn't give you knock, unless your pullying down as well.
Depending on car mods and what not, stock levels of timing at WOT are OK if you have a good tune.
Remember, (again, depending on year/make/model, etc...), for every degree of KR you get, the PCM pulls MORE than a degree of timing. When reducing timing, you do this AFTER doing what is called a Timing Tune. This is where you add timing to all pertinent parts of the tune and is part of the logical process where you work on the lower load/RPM parts of the tune BEFORE touching the higher loads and WOT sections.
So, to get back on track, don't just globally pull 2 degrees, thats the lazy and less effective way of doing things. You should be starting from a stock table and adding timing in the sections where it can support it and then AFTER that is done, pull timing in the upper sections where your car cannot support the timing you are commanding.
All of this presumes some basic logic:
- You do not want to run less than stock timing anywhere (nitrous is the exception, but even there, 2 degrees less than stock is not something that I would accept in my car if I was running nitrous)
- Your complete fueling is 100% completed before you play with spark timing.
There are other things, but obvious, so I do not think they need to be stated.
'99 Black GTP Sedan
3.4-2.6" PB Quick Change pulleys, Custom CAI, XP Cam, N* TB, LQ4 MAF, SLP headers, 42.5# Injectors, 180/195* thermostat.
13.501 @ 103.392 on 91 (2.4 60-foot).
13.82 @ 105.28 on 87 octane! (2.42 60-foot).
263kph top end as shown on the GPS.
All this and 39MPG to boot. What more can a man ask for?
* Just another enthusiastic amateur tuner! *
Thank you very much for the info
PB... [email protected]'@1.807 no nos.
Zzp 1.9 rockers,42.5 lucus injectors,poly motor mounts 3.2", custom K/N FWI, Autolite 104s, 180*t-stat, DHP PCM, Pacesetter headers, 3" down pipe, highflow cat, 3'' exhaust to bullet mufflers. Zex dry kit with 75 shot, thrasher throttlebody spacer, Stage 2 dynotech race tranny, 3.29s, 15/16s chain, hardened imput shaft, 3000 pro torque converter.
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