Can comeone help me out here I'm not sure what is going on I'm hoping someone here has an answer. Also if you notice at one point in the scan the STFT on B1 goes off the chart also. Can some please help out!
Can comeone help me out here I'm not sure what is going on I'm hoping someone here has an answer. Also if you notice at one point in the scan the STFT on B1 goes off the chart also. Can some please help out!
Both sides are way off. Turn off the MAF. Then get the LTFT's in order on the VE table first and see if it starts to behave.
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I don't even know where to start at with this tune its a dyno tune I paid for.
Check the stickies for starters. There's a LOT of help there. Once you digest all the info there, try some of the advice and see what happens.
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I mean should I hook my wideband up an set it up into Speed density an tune the VE table via the Air Fuel Ratio Error % table??
Yep. You got it! Then once you're done with the VE, move to the MAF. Remove spark retard as you encounter it.
HTH
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Nice I paid $500 for a dyno tune that I gotta retune 3 months later.
Depends on HOW it was tuned as to whether or not you got your $$ worth. If the tuner tuned the VE/Spark/MAF/Trans/Cold start/RAF/Fans/Speedo you got your money's worth and then some. If they just dawdled in the PE fuel and a little spark tuning, that's a little light on tuning IMHO.
Coming from a Pro Tuner's standpoint: You're paying for expertise so that it runs/drives nicely on the first try. You couldn't afford a tune from a Pro Tuner that spent week(s) on the tune, especially if they billed by the hour. And they have to make a living too.
A DIY owner type guy can get their car tuned razor sharp as they, the owner, have the car every day of every week of every month to adjust every separate aspect of the tune. Whereas a Pro Tuner has it for a few hours or so before the owner generally wants it back.
You, as the owner get multiple tries every day for weeks, months, years, and that's to *your* advantage.
Remember: GM calibration guys spend days, weeks, months, possibly years on tuning for *each* engine family, and that doesn't count the pure R&D time to come up with the engine concept.
BTW: Does the VIN in your calibration match your car??? I saw that VATS was disabled. I've seen so-called Pro Tuners plop a cal into a car that came from another car because they were lazy and just turned off VATS.
HTH
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Actually the guy that tuned it spent alot of time working with the car an I have been very satisfied with his work an hes always been willing to help me out with any probs I have had up till this an I just can't seem to get a positive response out of him this time on what he thinks is going on. An I was really aggravated when I posted that remark an shouldn't have typed it.
BTW I was driving the car tonight on a trip of about 80 miles "round trip" an I ran my scanner all the way there an back on the way over I averaged a horrible 24.3 mpg on the way back same thing an my LTFT on the left bank was maxed out all the way there an back as well.
But I got to noticing that my left 02 was not responding to throttle change at all at idle or at wot it was floating around 440-510mv. But as I turned off onto the last 2 mile stretch to my house I hammered it an ran it up to about 120mph an all of a sudden the left 02 started bouncing around an responding like it should be. So I took a little extra 10 mile drive watching my scanner and the LTFT dropped back down into like the positive 6 range , both 02s were responding like they should an my fuel economy jumps back up 31mpg @ 62mph.
An I got to looking at the scan I posted an in it the LT02 was basically stuck on 550Mv an never really moved at all. Could this problem I'm having simply be a acting up 02?
BTW the reason for the VATS being turned off is because its not the factory vcm thanks to a FAST programming box that fried my factory unit an we never could get the VATS to work again if you turn it on the security light stays on all the time. Wish I could get that straightened out to.
Ok. More info is very helpful.
I wonder if you actually have a dying o2 sensor as heat will sometimes "reactivate" them.
As to VATS it's a 10 minute procedure using the BCM Relink function.
BCM relink procedure (10 minutes):
Try to start vehicle
Leave key in on position
Do BCM relink (see step above as well)
Wait 10 minutes (Security light on dash will go off)
Pull key
Wait 10 seconds
Start vehicle.
IF it doesn't work, rinse & repeat as something didn't "take".
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I replaced the 02 yesterday an everything seemed to be working much better my STFTs were running pretty much in the 0-3 range and the LTFTs were running at 8.6 after a 45mile drive. I know this still ain't the greatest but its better than 25 an getting 23mpg. I was gonna start retuning the VE table today but its been raining all day today an really don't figure it would do much good to try to tune in the weather.
Can't hurt to compare. Could be QUITE interesting what weather will do to your tune. Just be careful if you do...
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