The #1 reason I got a tune and Hptuners - A/C and Cooling fan control.
I can say on a 2006 Trailblazer SS that the RPM cutout works independent of the TPS. It flat warms up the AC in the over 5K RPM range regardless of WOT or not. Changes to these RPM settings do work on this TBSS. This is seen by the clutch on the compressor kicking out via a test light to the compressor clutch wire.
Can anyone post with authority the actual redline of an AC compressor?
Overpressure concerns are solved with the high pressure kickout switch. (And other ways.)
So far 5500 RPM hasn't killed a compressor for me yet.
The WOT kickout killed a compressor clutch on a freeway on ramp with lots of smoke on my 85 Olds. High AC pressure, kick it out, and it could not spin the compressor back up thus burning up the clutch. So it was a little weak from being kicked out in this manner several times. (I replaced only the fried clutch and bearing not the entire compressor. Good thing it had it's own separate belt.) The WOT kickout leaves the highest starting torque load and high engine speeds on the AC clutch because all other times it has to cycle the clutch will leave more off time for the head pressure to come down and reduce starting torque needed. (And usually lower engine speed.) I think it is a bad idea to use WOT kickouts for the above reasons. (Unless there is a hard RPM limit then we are trading one part for another.)
I disagree that GM knows when to kick out the compressor. This is an old 1970's hot rod trick used later on underpowered cars. GM may have a proving grounds in AZ but they are from Michigan staring at snowbanks most of the year. Both the Fan % and AC cutout stock settings unnecessarily and noticeably reduce the AC ability. For example: 55 degree output air at idle in 110 + weather due to lack of fan use. Command more fan and the idle AC output temps cooled down. Must be fuel economy concerns and not wanting to add an extra extreme air temperature table just for AZ.