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Thread: (Almost) New to HP Tuners

  1. #1
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    (Almost) New to HP Tuners

    Hi Guys,
    New to HP tuners for sure and tuning in general with a general knowledge (Owned alot of them and can do most any maintenance/general part changing but not the level where i feel comfortable pulling motor/trans/transfer case) of GM V8's only tuning background is can tunes with the diablo. (also please move if in the wrong place but this looked like the best place to put it)

    I have two vehicles i want to tune #1 already has a tune but i believe it is just for DOD disable and nothing else, #2 has a diablo i3 87 tune on it currently.

    #1 vehicle is a 2013 silverado 4x4 5.3 LC9 aluminum block 6 speed
    I just installed 1 3/4 stainless steel long tube headers, offroad y pipe and deleted rear cats/02s and this is the main reason im geting hptuners - would i just data log for a while and and look at certain points to tune it or is there some parameters that can be used to get it close now? I also want to do some tuning on the 6l80 right now mainly turn lock up off 1-4 , and change it to higher rpms in 5-6.

    #2 is a 2009 tahoe 4x4 5.3 LMG iron block 6 speed
    Stock except for the 87 tune which i am overall really happy with - the main thing i wanted to do was the same 6l80 tuning on this one - i took it to the mountains and temps got pretty hot up to nearly 220 and sometimes it shifts quirky. the can tune helped alot with the lazy stock shifts but i would like it a bit firmer and take the lock up out same way as #1 - can i download the diablo tune and tweak it?

    With how bad the 6L80's are is there anything else i should do that will help extend the life?

    Thanks for all your help figured with 2 vehicles this would be the cheapest route but i also dont want to FAFO and have an expensive bill because of my inexperience.
    Last edited by Shroomun; 1 Week Ago at 07:36 AM.

  2. #2
    Advanced Tuner rabbs88's Avatar
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    Start by correcting your MAF and VVE. There are multiple walkthroughs on this forum and even YouTube that show/teach you how to do it.

    I'll even get you started for with some excellent 6L80 knowledge thanks to a member of this forum

    https://www.youtube.com/@SilverSurfer77

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    I appreciate it - will check them out and i wasnt even aware there was anything to correct there - is that because of the headers or is that something else i should correct on both vehicles that is a known problem?

    Also i am getting ready to purchase the tuner - looks like there used to be good deals on credit/tuner packages, i'm assuming that since the pro suite that wasn't included before is with the MPVI3 that is no longer an option?

    Thanks again for your reply looking forward to when i'm more knowledgeable and can really tweak things along with sharing it here.

  4. #4
    Advanced Tuner Cringer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shroomun View Post
    I appreciate it - will check them out and i wasnt even aware there was anything to correct there - is that because of the headers or is that something else i should correct on both vehicles that is a known problem?

    Also i am getting ready to purchase the tuner - looks like there used to be good deals on credit/tuner packages, i'm assuming that since the pro suite that wasn't included before is with the MPVI3 that is no longer an option?

    Thanks again for your reply looking forward to when i'm more knowledgeable and can really tweak things along with sharing it here.
    I believe they included all the pro features into the MVPI3 as a way to entice people to upgrade to it.
    A standard approach will give you standard results.

    My Tuning Software:

    VVE Assistant [update for v1.5]
    MAF Assistant
    EOIT Assistant

  5. #5
    Advanced Tuner JayRolla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shroomun View Post
    I appreciate it - will check them out and i wasnt even aware there was anything to correct there - is that because of the headers or is that something else i should correct on both vehicles that is a known problem?

    Also i am getting ready to purchase the tuner - looks like there used to be good deals on credit/tuner packages, i'm assuming that since the pro suite that wasn't included before is with the MPVI3 that is no longer an option?

    Thanks again for your reply looking forward to when i'm more knowledgeable and can really tweak things along with sharing it here.
    When you add modifications that adds airflow you need to adjust your VVE and MAF tables. If you change the intake size the MAF needs tuned. I highly recommend learning the basics of how fuel injection engine works. You can buy books or search google. Learn how AFR's, timing, VVE table, MAF table, detonation (knock), compression, boost, etc... Once you at least understand the basics you then can start tuning, and I highly recommend a wbo2 that you can log. Youtube has some good stuff like Goat rope garage for good tutorials, Matt Sanford for the process, Silversurfer77(Cringer) for some awesome in-depth knowledge.
    2013 CTS-V Coupe M6 - 1 7/8" Headers, 3" x-pipe, stock mufflers, Airaid intake w/green filter, ID1050X injectors, DSXtuning flex fuel kit, DMS under hood tank, upgraded pump, 3/4" lines, griptec 2.4" pulley, solid isolator, 100mm idler, reinforced brick, MM mild catch can, AEM 30-0334 wbo2, 600whp/630wtq

  6. #6
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    On the transmission side: watch a couple of youtube videos.. Don't overcomplicate it !!
    The 6l80e is awesome once you get in dialed in. In general: Remove TCC lockup totally in 1-3 gears..
    Change the upshift tables up quite a bit in the 0-50% throttle... make sure to adjust the downshift to go with them.
    Get rid of the slip in the TCC lockup tables (get rid of dod/afm first)..
    This is just the very basic things that you can do to make it "feel" 100% Better than stock and save your TCC from prematurely
    biting the dust. Make sure you have adequate engine and trans cooling in place

  7. #7
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    Appreciate all the comments - i have started looking at the introduction series of videos from goat rope garage to learn more - thanks again!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayRolla View Post
    When you add modifications that adds airflow you need to adjust your VVE and MAF tables. If you change the intake size the MAF needs tuned. I highly recommend learning the basics of how fuel injection engine works. You can buy books or search google. Learn how AFR's, timing, VVE table, MAF table, detonation (knock), compression, boost, etc... Once you at least understand the basics you then can start tuning, and I highly recommend a wbo2 that you can log. Youtube has some good stuff like Goat rope garage for good tutorials, Matt Sanford for the process, Silversurfer77(Cringer) for some awesome in-depth knowledge.
    I dont mind the bung install but not sure i'd want to run the wires and all that - whats your thoughts on this one? I obviously couldn't connect it straight to the HP tuners software but with the bluetooth module should be able to monitor if the app is available for windows on the same lap top or just use my cell phone if not - would make things alot simpler i would imagine if i only needed to find a ground and switched power. Also with no cats and long tube headers do i still need to be within 8" of the collector?

    https://pe-ltd.com/product/wideband/
    Last edited by Shroomun; 1 Week Ago at 10:23 PM.

  9. #9
    Advanced Tuner JayRolla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shroomun View Post
    I dont mind the bung install but not sure i'd want to run the wires and all that - whats your thoughts on this one? I obviously couldn't connect it straight to the HP tuners software but with the bluetooth module should be able to monitor if the app is available for windows on the same lap top or just use my cell phone if not - would make things alot simpler i would imagine if i only needed to find a ground and switched power. Also with no cats and long tube headers do i still need to be within 8" of the collector?

    https://pe-ltd.com/product/wideband/
    The goal is to log via HPtuners so you can setup logging MAF vs AFR error. This way you can just copy past into the MAF table to get the PE dialed in to whatever you set it too. Running the wires and stuff is not as hard as it sounds. Could have a shop do it also.

    As for the location you want to do what the instructions suggest. But mine is a bit down in the xpipe. A lot of dyno's sniff from the back tail pipe. When I dynoed the rear sniffer matched my front at the bung. You can see the bung in this picture.
    2013 CTS-V Coupe M6 - 1 7/8" Headers, 3" x-pipe, stock mufflers, Airaid intake w/green filter, ID1050X injectors, DSXtuning flex fuel kit, DMS under hood tank, upgraded pump, 3/4" lines, griptec 2.4" pulley, solid isolator, 100mm idler, reinforced brick, MM mild catch can, AEM 30-0334 wbo2, 600whp/630wtq

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayRolla View Post
    The goal is to log via HPtuners so you can setup logging MAF vs AFR error. This way you can just copy past into the MAF table to get the PE dialed in to whatever you set it too. Running the wires and stuff is not as hard as it sounds. Could have a shop do it also.

    As for the location you want to do what the instructions suggest. But mine is a bit down in the xpipe. A lot of dyno's sniff from the back tail pipe. When I dynoed the rear sniffer matched my front at the bung. You can see the bung in this picture.
    Gotcha, i saw the rear sniffers and they appeared to be less accurate from most peoples accounts glad to hear they may be a bit closer than people think - apparently what the tuners around my area also use when they are tuning other peoples cars. I'm in a bit of a hurry so i may try this first - the other knock was there was not enough information coming thru the rear sniffer to tune at idle or below 2000 rpm i think, basically WOT was only thing it was useful for - but i'm wondering if thats because they have cats, and since i deleted those it would not be as big an issue for me - whats your thoughts on that?

  11. #11
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    Tune non-WOT areas with narrow band fuel trims.

  12. #12
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    When dyno tuning I prefer to have the sensor up stream in a bung versus in the tailpipe. Only use the tailpipe sniffer when I absolutely have to. Upstream in a bung they react faster. Not necessarily more accurate just faster reaction.

    EFI specialist
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  13. #13
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
    Tune non-WOT areas with narrow band fuel trims.
    And that ^^^^

    EFI specialist
    Advanced diagnostics, tuning, emissions
    HPtuners dealer and tech support
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  14. #14
    Advanced Tuner JayRolla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shroomun View Post
    Gotcha, i saw the rear sniffers and they appeared to be less accurate from most peoples accounts glad to hear they may be a bit closer than people think - apparently what the tuners around my area also use when they are tuning other peoples cars. I'm in a bit of a hurry so i may try this first - the other knock was there was not enough information coming thru the rear sniffer to tune at idle or below 2000 rpm i think, basically WOT was only thing it was useful for - but i'm wondering if thats because they have cats, and since i deleted those it would not be as big an issue for me - whats your thoughts on that?
    Depends on if the cats are still installed also. IMO on a dyno you should tune closed loop, idle, cruise with narrowbands and then when it comes time to do WOT tuning you remove a narrowband and pop the WBO2 sensor in to get PE dialed in. This is why an elevated dyno is nice so you can check everything out and swap sensors easy during the dyno session.
    2013 CTS-V Coupe M6 - 1 7/8" Headers, 3" x-pipe, stock mufflers, Airaid intake w/green filter, ID1050X injectors, DSXtuning flex fuel kit, DMS under hood tank, upgraded pump, 3/4" lines, griptec 2.4" pulley, solid isolator, 100mm idler, reinforced brick, MM mild catch can, AEM 30-0334 wbo2, 600whp/630wtq

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
    Tune non-WOT areas with narrow band fuel trims.

    Not to hijack your thread but I am new to tuning and I am reading reading reading.

    When you say tune non -WOT with narrowbands are you meaning to let the STFT and LTFT make adjustments as you daily drive

    or

    are you saying to depend on the narrowband data to tune when in you intentionally put the car in open loop to log for MAF or VE Tuning?



    As I understand I should depend on the wideband to help me make corrections till I am about +/-5% then let closed loop do its thing (using narrowbands). Am I wrong for this?

  16. #16
    Advanced Tuner JayRolla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evil Phoenix View Post
    Not to hijack your thread but I am new to tuning and I am reading reading reading.

    When you say tune non -WOT with narrowbands are you meaning to let the STFT and LTFT make adjustments as you daily drive

    or

    are you saying to depend on the narrowband data to tune when in you intentionally put the car in open loop to log for MAF or VE Tuning?



    As I understand I should depend on the wideband to help me make corrections till I am about +/-5% then let closed loop do its thing (using narrowbands). Am I wrong for this?
    If your fuel trims are way off, you can use the wbo2 error to get them close. Then use fuel trims to dial it in that uses the narrowbands. IMO the best way is just disable LTFT's and use only STFT's since the LTFT's positive numbers can add to WOT fueling. Just log STFT and copy paste into VVE by multiply. When within 5% you can start to multiply by half. Do the same with the MAF. MAF vs STFT error and tune it with the narrowbands. Then tune the MAF upper range with the wbo2 error for WOT PE.
    2013 CTS-V Coupe M6 - 1 7/8" Headers, 3" x-pipe, stock mufflers, Airaid intake w/green filter, ID1050X injectors, DSXtuning flex fuel kit, DMS under hood tank, upgraded pump, 3/4" lines, griptec 2.4" pulley, solid isolator, 100mm idler, reinforced brick, MM mild catch can, AEM 30-0334 wbo2, 600whp/630wtq