HELP!!! Gen III Deka 80 Turbo $40k boat anchor

[Jason.Henley]

I rarely if ever ask for help but,,,

I could used some guidance.. I have been working on this truck for years.. I paid a "performance shop" to just make it match what the Dodge Viper Truck would perform... The guy didn't have a clue but never informed me of such... Finally got the truck back, need to change the diff fluid "break in" two bolts hand tight holding the transmission crossmember, no nut holding the transmission the gears he installed in the rear diff Destroyed all driveshafts. fuel lines to small,,,,,ect..... Broke down and brought it to a different Performance shop to get the tune right, I purchased $3k+ from the tuning school but just couldn't figure it out.. the new performance shop. blew a radiator hose, then the blew the radiator, and replaced the hood latch handle in the cab... $3k..... they call and they cant get it to Idle.... I told them ... I drove it to your shop what do you mean.
after it sitting in my drive for 4 more years i have started tinkering with it .... I finally found where they enabled the MAF ... I don't have a MAF.. the turbo splits them in half..

Questions - Cylinder Airmass - Does it require modification due to forced injection? If so how?

Look at the injector data I have please.. I complied it years ago.. Seems ok. it runs and drives. stumbles WOT at 2.8-3.2k rpms ish. (If I remember correct back then I had a great deal of support from the tuning school, (we were fighting knock retard then) I finally got fed up and turned them almost off (hoping I would blow it up and all my problems would be solved)

Also the first Performance shop chose all the parts not me,, With what is listed in the the signature is it possible these components just dont work together??

Yes I realize its not the smoothest but if I am smoothing incorrect data from the start it is a waste of time. I have spent countless hours smoothing,,

The current rear axle gear ratio is 3.51 or something its a stock rear. the one I had built with 4.88's is too low for the trans.. Drive shaft rotation is insane..

I am attaching the latest tune,,, Having issues around 3K rpms.. I have done 11 gallons worth of pulls.

41924AG hm.hpl
41924AG hm.hpt

Let me know if I attached it right?

I appreciate all the help I can get.
Thank you

[gametech]

Your fuel injector data is set up for a return style fuel system, so if you are running a deadhead system that will eventually be a problem. I say eventually, because your VE and spark tables are screwed. You just cannot have dramatic enormous differences between adjoining cells and expect anything to work right. I have no idea what you have "spent hours smoothing", but I don't see it in this tune.

[SiriusC1024]

Yes, you are setup for vacuum-referenced fpr. 2004 fuel rail is non-referenced, unless you've configured it to be so. Double check the type of regulation. What cam are you running with exact specs? MAP sensor part number? Have you put in a separate IAT? Don't use the MAF sensor's IAT reading for FI. Intercooler?

[ns158sl]

Uff. Double check your injector data like the others said. You have a completely jacked VE table. 1 Degree of spark along with in and out of fueling is going to give you grief.

Once you are more comfortable with tuning and get some bugs worked out, I highly recommend scaling the tune to get better control resolution of the timing into boost. Another way is to leave it unscaled and play with the Fuel Base Spark adder at a way less resolution.

[Alvin]

Nothing looks wrong in the setup.

There is a lot of rough work in the tune. I would start completely over with it.

The map sensor linear and offset are not setup for any map sensor I know of. You might want to check into that.

I'd also encourage you to disable the alcohol injection until you get closer. It's just going to complicate things. Keep the boost reasonable. It shouldn't NEED meth.