67 Camaro First Tune File and Logs.... could use some feedback

[exploder]

A little about the setup:
Camaro.JPG

67 Camaro 6.0 Iron Block
243 heads ported
Tick SNS Cam / BTR .660 Retainers Platinum Dual Springs
4L80e Trans Circle-D converter
3.73 gears
275/40/18 Tires

What I could use some feedback on:

1. I think my speedometer is reading incorrectly. Judging by my speed it seems like I am close, but I think I might be a few MPH slower than what I see on the speedo. Could someone sanity check my inputs?

2. Trans tuning...All of my past cars have been 6 speed....I literally have no idea if I am in the ballpark on the 4l80e. It shifts well and has good drivability, but I am not sure if the inputs I have arrived at will allow it to live long-term. Only real gripe I have is doesn't seem to lock up the converter at highway speed when I feel like it should....slight modulation of throttle will eventually let it settle into a lower rpm. Any methods to help with this? Thoughts?

3. Timing...cannibalized some tables from other tunes I found...seems to work fairly well, but I am not sure if I am on the low end of what's reasonable at WOT or in the ballpark. Open to suggestions

4. Idle...I have it fairly sorted and it no longer dies in stop and go and surges very little. I have the idle itself on the high side...should I drop this some? On occasion when the engine and outside temps are really hot here in Texas and I go from Drive into Reverse it will die. What should I be modifying to help with this?

3. Attached some logs done with the base config. Is there a way or a quick easy link to the proper PID's I need to log to help me better present the information I am asking about above?

[edcmat-l1]

Need to calibrate the speedo either on a dyno or using GPS on your phone. Can't look at a log and tune file and know if it's correct.

You need to raise your fan temps. This isn't 1967 and you don't have iron double hump heads any longer. These engines are designed to run at 200+ degrees. Running them as cool as you have yours setup, is counterproductive. And while you're at it might as well put a 185 stat back in it and chuck the 165 in the shitcan.

[SiriusC1024]

That 4L80E is going to need a lot more help than a torque converter if you plan on shifting up at 6500.

O2 switchpoints are biased rich at low airflows. You would want lean bias at idle.

Throttle cracker is disabled. If you're using rolling idle at least make it complementary to throttle cracker. You should also bring it up to, you know, rolling speed instead of 0mph, which is not rolling speed. Set idle proportional RPM error up to 50rpm or so.

Match the idle spark advance tables to the base tables. After that bring the base idle transition area up so that you have a torque boost when you hit the pedal. Look at factory auto tunes to see this. Disable spark smoothing. Increase correction rates of idle over/underspeed in the first 4 cells.

Fuel>Transient>Min Fuel Mg to 0.020. Set injection timing. Put cam specs in here then send that to the attached sheet.
https://www.summitracing.com/newsand...ing-calculator

Running in SD and verifying the VE table will help take care a lot of issues. Don't forget to disable Trans Diag>General>Max Line Pressure DTC>P0101-P0103 if you go SD.

Restore the spark torque map at Torque Management>General>Spark Retard>vs. Torque Reduction. >Maximum Torque vs RPM you'd want 640 if you have a torque converter with an upgraded clutch. Not zero. If not upgraded then put that to stock. Trans>Torque Management>Torque Reduction>Normal shouldn't be zeroed, either. Reduce it maybe, but don't remove shifting torque management. The transmission will actually shift faster with torque truncation. You go slower and reduce transmission life otherwise. Idk why people always disable this stuff.

[exploder]

I really appreciate your feedback. Thank you for taking the time to do that. I have made the changes you suggested and will plan to upload this evening and go for a drive. The summit calculator and spreadsheet was a huge help. Luckily I had the cam specs so that made it easier. The only thing that I am unsure about in regards to the changes you suggested seem to be around running SD. I have never done that, but I am willing to try. I know that most people do not use a older style plastic tube style MAF and run SD with a separate IAT sensor to get the values. I have a LS7 style card Maf currently and was wondering if that can still be run SD or do I need to ditch it all together and run a different setup?Forum Suggested Changes.hpt

[blindsquirrel]

SD does not need a MAF sensor at all, but that's not what he's talking about. The MAF has to be 'failed' with certain settings in the file to force it to ignore the MAF, only while collecting the data to tune the VE. If there is an integrated IAT it stays in place where it is because the MAF stays plugged in.

Only if the MAF is being removed permanently does the IAT have to be dealt with.

[SiriusC1024]

How did you get that VE table if you never ran SD?