surging idle, running hot after short drive

[GrampsSRT8]

hey all,
i have been noticing while attempting to dial in my tune i have issues with the ECT getting upwards of 230 or higher after a short drive. the fans seem to kick on early or not at all as well as EVIC screen not updating ECT. the VE tables for idle and part throttle seem to be good now and i havent moved into WOT yet, i do not really want to untill i get these couple issues resolved.

the idles surges and i have knocked down the idle torque spark to battle it and it has gotten better but is really low and can not be lowed much more.

i have noticed that the EVIC screen sometimes will not show the ECT changing as well as the RPM freezes for a second sometimes, will being plugged into the OBD2 port cause this?

tune and Log from a short drive below

2006 Chrysler 300SRT8-cam-tune-rev1-speeddensity-TEST-PE-ZEROED(my Update).hpt06-300-srt8-6.1-VE Tuning6.hpl

[edcmat-l1]

That thing is getting pretty hot. I'd check the cooling system, make sure it's full, no air pockets. Then need to figure out if the fans are running when they should be.

This most likely is NOT a tuning problem, although the tune does need some work. Setting the minimum spark table like you have is not the way to go about idle tuning one of these. If you notice the timing is flatlined at 10 degrees now. It should be able to add/subtract timing to maintain idle speed.

[GrampsSRT8]

That thing is getting pretty hot. I'd check the cooling system, make sure it's full, no air pockets. Then need to figure out if the fans are running when they should be.

This most likely is NOT a tuning problem, although the tune does need some work. Setting the minimum spark table like you have is not the way to go about idle tuning one of these. If you notice the timing is flatlined at 10 degrees now. It should be able to add/subtract timing to maintain idle speed.

the minimum spark table is set up how The Tuning School described. i haven't gotten super far and i had a feeling it will need changed but just used it as a starting point. also the fans are set to come on at 180* -ish i believe but tend to turn on early or not at all. the cooling system seems to be full it is not drinking anymore coolant. that being said i probably should check the tstat and the bleed plug on the water pump housing.

[edcmat-l1]

the minimum spark table is set up how The Tuning School described. i haven't gotten super far and i had a feeling it will need changed but just used it as a starting point. also the fans are set to come on at 180* -ish i believe but tend to turn on early or not at all. the cooling system seems to be full it is not drinking anymore coolant. that being said i probably should check the tstat and the bleed plug on the water pump housing.

I don't care who described it, it's wrong. It makes an artificial "floor" for the timing. You can see it in the data log. The timing is pulled down to 10 degrees and just sits there.

A lot of tuning school info, regardless of the school, just isn't right.

[edcmat-l1]

When everything is setup correctly you don't have to touch the minimum timing table. And the spark should have a "saw tooth" pattern to it like in the screen shot. The computer uses the timing to maintain idle speed.

timing control.jpg

[GrampsSRT8]

I don't care who described it, it's wrong. It makes an artificial "floor" for the timing. You can see it in the data log. The timing is pulled down to 10 degrees and just sits there.

A lot of tuning school info, regardless of the school, just isn't right.

no no no you got me wrong i was not arguing with you i was just stating that is how it is set up right now, obviously it needs work and I thank you deeply for your input! I will continue reading into minimum timing and make adjustments as needed.

again, thank you for your input. i appreciate any and all help that may be offered as i am still very green with tuning but very much enjoy the process. do you have any more recommendations?

[edcmat-l1]

no no no you got me wrong i was not arguing with you i was just stating that is how it is set up right now, obviously it needs work and I thank you deeply for your input! I will continue reading into minimum timing and make adjustments as needed.

again, thank you for your input. i appreciate any and all help that may be offered as i am still very green with tuning but very much enjoy the process. do you have any more recommendations?

Sorry, I'm thinking you got me all wrong LOL. I was trying to be to the point technically. Sorry if it came across over-aggressive.

You VE tables actually look like they make sense which is not all that common with rookies LOL. Just bein real.

I'd put your minimum spark table back to stock and use your idle airflow tables along with the electronic throttle tables to get your idle speed where you want it, and stable, without neutering the spark to achieve that goal. That's the right way to do it. Setting up the minimum spark table the way you have it is how guys that don't know what they're doing do it. Not a knock on you, that's on the peeps teaching that method.

You want your spark to bounce around on the PLUS side of zero. You don't want to idle in the negatives. A bounce from 5-15 or even 20 degrees is about what you're shooting for. Won't hurt to be a little higher but you'll want it in that range.

[GrampsSRT8]

Sorry, I'm thinking you got me all wrong LOL. I was trying to be to the point technically. Sorry if it came across over-aggressive.

You VE tables actually look like they make sense which is not all that common with rookies LOL. Just bein real.

I'd put your minimum spark table back to stock and use your idle airflow tables along with the electronic throttle tables to get your idle speed where you want it, and stable, without neutering the spark to achieve that goal. That's the right way to do it. Setting up the minimum spark table the way you have it is how guys that don't know what they're doing do it. Not a knock on you, that's on the peeps teaching that method.

You want your spark to bounce around on the PLUS side of zero. You don't want to idle in the negatives. A bounce from 5-15 or even 20 degrees is about what you're shooting for. Won't hurt to be a little higher but you'll want it in that range.

i have updated my minimum timing table and my VE Table from my last drive. care to take a look?

4-7-24 short drive (updated timing map).hpl06 300 csrt tune - timing changed-ve updated after drive.hpt

[edcmat-l1]

Minimum spark base table is still not stock. You can tell without even looking at the tune file. The timing hits a floor. This time it's around 4 degrees. If the minimum spark table was set to stock it would be able to pull the timing into the negatives.

[JoshCP527]

its all about trq. The friction trq table is your friend but you also have to have the ve setup too as fuel trims along with everything else will reflect actual calculated trq.