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Thread: Disable failed front 02

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronwelling1 View Post
    Wow. One actual helpful post. The rest are presumptuous pricks assuming details they are too lazy to ask about. You individuals really didn?t need to respond at all since you didn?t have anything nice or productive to say no did you. Could have just moved on. Classic stereotype online forum behavior. You should be ashamed of yourself. I know you?re not. But you should be.
    You do realize you can also just ignore their comments, just as well as they could "just moved on"? Of course I could have just ignored you comments also. It's a viscous circle.

  2. #22
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    Again so righteous. I'm only breaking the law less than the other guy. You guys are too funny. Carry on.

  3. #23
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    And the OP never asked how to defeat any emissions. He was basically asking how to run the vehicle in open loop.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2xLS1 View Post
    Again so righteous. I'm only breaking the law less than the other guy. You guys are too funny. Carry on.
    Quote Originally Posted by 2xLS1 View Post
    And the OP never asked how to defeat any emissions. He was basically asking how to run the vehicle in open loop.
    Then tell him how to do it exactly. I won't.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by SiriusC1024 View Post
    Then tell him how to do it exactly. I won't.
    Yet you post modified tunes here for others on almost a daily basis. Perhaps you should review HP Tuners Compliance Statement or get off your soap box.

  6. #26
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    That's what I thought. You won't.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronwelling1 View Post
    2001 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 4wd

    I?ve already tuned the VE and Maf last year. Truck has been great. It now burns oil (valve stem seal) and killed the o2 sensors. Runs pig rich with them turned on. I don?t want to replace the sensors until we drop in a 6.0 in a few months. In the mean time it has to run reliable and well for work. Just shutting off LTFT and STFT will disable the high octane spark table right ? I dont want that. What so you all recommend?
    You are wanting it to run in open loop. No different than if you had a hard fault on a pre cat O2 on a stock vehicle that prevents closed loop operation. Engine>Fuel>Open & Closed Loop>Closed Loop Enable Coolant Temp vs IAT. Set entire table to 285. Or you could just unplug both pre cat O2s from the harness. Both will accomplish the same thing.
    Last edited by 2xLS1; 02-22-2024 at 12:04 PM.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2xLS1 View Post
    You are wanting it to run in open loop. No different than if you had a hard fault on a pre cat O2 on a stock vehicle that prevents closed loop operation. Engine>Fuel>Open & Closed Loop>Closed Loop Enable Coolant Temp vs IAT. Set entire table to 285. Or you could just unplug both pre cat O2s from the harness. Both will accomplish the same thing.
    Nobody who is capable of tuning VE and MAF is going to ask these types of simple questions. Next he'll ask where the Open & Closed Loop tab is at. He was lying to you, and now you've helped this chucklehead in order to prove a point. You win LOL.

  9. #29
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    I appreciate that. That?s what I did ultimately. Just wasn?t sure how that affected the use of the spark tables since we are advised to copy the high table to low table during tuning. Basically I was asking what affects use of the low / high tables by the pcm. I think someone answered before that said it won?t default to low tables only when I open loop. Which is my original question.

    On a side note. Getting away from the argument on here, I just started playing with things and keeping a close eye on the laptop today. Luckily I had the trailer the whole day which is when I?m worried about spark knock the most obviously. Adding to the MAF a few percents up higher in the frequency range, playing with the low/high spark tables a tad ( more on both) , setting it to open loop full time, and kept the VE table to the tuned stio setting. Overall I?m very surprised how much it woke the truck up. To the point I may not do the 6.0 swap at all. The further I get from factory the more pita everything becomes. Experience has taught me that. I only wanted the 6.0 because I have one so dam cheap ( $140) and I wanted the torque curve towing. I live in the mountains. We only ever go up or down lol never flat it seams. With today?s setting it was a noticeable difference. Too early to say but if mpg stays better ( only one tank today ) and the power stays decent then I may just pull the heads on the 5.3 to freshen it all up. Check to make sure it is indeed valve stem seals and not rings causing the issue of oil. No smoke out the tail pipe. Just burns a quart every oil change. The mileage this Tahoe sees we change oil every 30 to 60 days. That?s also why I want to keep things as simple as possible. Close to factory as long as it performs well. It?s the perfect platform for what we do. By no means do I need a power house motor. Just enough to pull safely in this stupid traffic we have around here and keep up safely. Which it does pretty well all things considered. Was gonna do the 6.0 and trans overhaul/ mods to get the torque for the hills while maintaining reliable service. But may not need to do that anymore. A few more days of logging and then again when it gets hot will be the tale of the end route of how this thing goes.

  10. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
    You do realize you can also just ignore their comments, just as well as they could "just moved on"? Of course I could have just ignored you comments also. It's a viscous circle.
    I feel compelled to inquire as to the viscosity of this circle you speak of, lol.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by gametech View Post
    I feel compelled to inquire as to the viscosity of this circle you speak of, lol.
    Depends on how heated it gets.