Probably not, but that's something to address.Originally Posted by 6.0jayy
What I see is when the TCC behaves normally you get good idle. When it's not slipping like it should the controls fight to keep the engine alive and cause surging.
You said it gets better when the transmission warms up. That means thinner fluid and tolerances open up to reduce friction. Something is dragging, and there's not much in there to do that other than the clutch and a couple bearings.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 02-22-2024 at 11:02 AM.
tried the higher spark tune you gave and its better when its cold, its not stalling out so much but its definitely still tying to die down. Thanks so much for your help so far.
forum tune log pt 3 +spark.hpl
About all you can do is keep pumping up the spark.
okay do u think ill need a new torque converter prematurely? again thanks for your help truck is 10x better than it was before!
If you can get it to work right then keep it. You'll be able to tell if the TCC starts to fail.
Sorry I couldn't be more help. Would've liked to fix it for you entirely.
This is a longshot, but did you install a high dollar multi disk lockup converter? If so they normally require modifications to the transmission to increase fluid pressure to unlock them enough to avoid TCC drag at low speeds.
Hey man you might've saved the day! Here's more info on the part and situation you describe:
"The simple fix for the majority of combinations that experience TCC drag is to install Sonnax part number 34200-14K...This valve addresses a number of issues in 4L80E transmissions...Additional TCC release pressure helps insure that the TCC does not come into contact with the clutch apply surface inside."
https://www.circledspecialties.com/blogs/tech-news/4l80-torque-converter-clutch-drag
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 02-23-2024 at 12:30 AM.
apologies for the late response, would this be considered a multi disc converter? If so you may have just saved the day with this thought.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60414K1/10002/-1
also i have an aftermarket 40k trans cooler with soft lines being ran from oem hard lines to the new cooler. Would this affect line pressure and in turn cause this problem?
Pressure in the cooler lines varies between 20 & 50 PSI, But pressure in the circuit is a byproduct of restriction & the circuit is diagnosed by Volume (gallons per minute).
Many things affect the pressure & volume....ATF temp, Commanded Line Pressure, TCC State(On/Off), Bushing Wear, Pressure Regulator Valve/Bore Wear which is a major issue with 6LXXE & 5LXXE units.
Bushing Wear will effect pressure but not volume for example.
Long story short your flexible lines will not effect your converter
I can't tell from the ad. Maybe Jegs can detail lockup torque ratings. Besides, the article from Circle D indicates improvements regardless of clutch type. That valve looks like a good bet, and thank gametech if it works. Keep us posted I'm interested in how it turns out.
sounds good ill order it up and get it in asap
That Jeg's converter isn't expensive enough to be a triple disc.
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Installed the sonax part and the first drive after the install was ultimately worse than it drove before the installation. Heres a log from how its driving currently. same tune as before havent touched the tune.
after trans valve installed.hpl
What's wrong with the way it drives? The TCC is slipping at idle speed every time in the log, so it looks like it's working.
take a look at 2:30-2:50 in the log, its dropping rpm when coming to a stop and trying to stall out
Oh ok I see it. Return to idle fluctuations. I was looking for an actual stall like it was doing before. Now start adjusting spark and airflow.
Just my opinion, turning off rolling idle is the wrong thing to do. Tune looks like it needs more than that though.
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I was going along that reasoning by using throttle cracker instead. Airflow vs rpm. To me, rolling is for a higher idle while coasting so that when you get back on the throttle there isn't as much takeup/jerking for on-off-on throttle. Throttle cracker to modify torque and allow a smooth transition to idle.
The other thing is rolling idle isn't available on early gen 3, so it should be doable without using it. More a fine tuning at the very end of a chain, airflow vs speed.
I'm more giving my reasoning than refuting what you're saying, edcmat. Feel free to educate me on it
Quick little rolling idle history, I'm actually the guy who "found" the rolling idle tables and tipped of HPT. This was close to 20 years ago now. I was doing a lot of tuning with both HPT and EFIlive and I came across them in EFIlive in some files I was going back and forth between the softwares and those table weren't in HPT.
Anyway, rolling idle works differently than the throttle cracker, even though the numbers come up as cracker in your data. Yes, the earlier OSs didn't have them and that's the reason I do ALOT of OS updates on certain cars just to have those tables.
Yes, most vehicles can and do run just fine without using them, but they work remarkably well in all cases and can be used as a cure-all especially in more radical combos, bigger cams, light flywheels, that kinda stuff.
Oh yeah almost forgot, rolling idle is the only way to get the cracker to work in a clutch car.
That is all.
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