questions about DTC's turned off after email tune

[Dan636]

hey guys, so after researching and going through my tune file and poking around, i'm becoming more familiar with the tuning process. that being said there is still a lot i don't know.

after reading a lot on here and other forums and youtube - i'm seeing things being turned off during the process. after nosing around with what i'm learning in the editor, i've noticed things still turned off that the majority of info i've found says should be re-enabled. things like cat over temp and long term fuel trims. finding these things off makes me have some concerns...like do i have an issue going on the turner just bandaided with turning these off and turning codes off like map sensor codes being set to second error, o2 sensors being set to no error reported for heater control circuits etc, or is this standard? (there are more than jus these two dtcs being changed)

and would it be bad news to turn LTFT back on?

i also noticed that maf is the primary for of calculation (set to 400 rpm). is this the reason why the ltft were left off?

attaching my current tune for reference

5.3 btr state 2 nsr truck cam dur @ 0.050 212 218 - lift .481 int exh - lsa 111 .560 btr spring stock everything else. full emissions on this daily.

Thanks!

[5FDP]

They likely turned off the LTFT because they didn't actually tune it and just copy/paste some sort of tune that they hope works and shuts you up. That probably the honest truth.

If they set it to MAF only, that's typical of a email tune because they aren't asking for data logs back and forth to "properly" tune the fueling. The VE table should technically still be tuned but on these computers it would take a lot of time so most leave it MAF only. The LTFT being off means that they won't play a major role in fuel correction, they are hoping that their tune is close enough so that the short term fuel trim will be making corrections on the fly but even that is only good for closed loop fuel control.

Having the DTC's set to no error reported and the COT off is again likely because of a copy/paste thing because they maybe assume you don't have cats anymore. And now you'd never know if you had a bad sensor, so not that good for you.

The rest of the tune doesn't look horrible at a quick glance.

[Dan636]

it didn't run bad or anything until recently. found a couple of leaks. old rubber being disturbed after replacing intake manifold gaskets. made me wonder why it didn't set a check engine light. started looking through the diag section and was didn't realize how much had been turned off.

i'm not trying to complain about the performance of bad tune, cause over all it runs okay doesn't hesitate or stall or anything like that. i only have 2 complaints really: it idles wonky from time to time, and gas mileage isn't all that great around town....kinda expected that tho wasn't all that great before the cam lol. the idle thing is what got this whole tuning thing going for me. been finding small leaks a lot here recently, its interesting to see the logs before and after the repair tho


would it throw anything off if i turn LTFT and COT, or these codes back on? would my gas mileage improve?
what would you do in this situation? i have i feeling if i turn codes back on i'll be faced with SES lights...but that might be a good thing

[Dan636]

okay so now that i have used silversurfer77s maf assistant tool i've got the maf a lot closer and i'm not running so lean - did this after o2 sensor install and i found that i have a small exhaust leak at manifold flange on drivers side. i know its not perfect but its a lot closer instead of idling aroun 7-9% lean or driving around at 6-7% lean. wanted to be closer to zero while if figure more of this tuning stuff out.


anyways, i have a question about a misfire counters. i've noticed lately and from time to time before i found all my leaks - i would get a shake at warm idle and warm idle only. i was wondering with the stage to camshaft that i have, would it be any help at all to re-enable the misfire counts to help pinpoint which cylinder is misfiring or would there be a lot of data that skewed due to the engine rotating differently than stock?

engine runs and idles great when cold, drives great when warm - don't notice any shake or stumbles or coughs. but come to a stop, put it in park, no shake - then suddenly shake and it sounds a little funny... ONLY at idle when warm. hard to describe sound. can def feel the shake though.

attaching log and and tune from most recent maf changes.

i know everyone says tune vve first, but i haven't fully grasped the vve concept yet...just making the best of the situation email tuners have handed me until i can grasp vve. a/c delco stock iridiums in right now, roughly 1k miles on them. check approx 300 miles ago...plugs look hot as hell to me...made another post posted some pictures but was told they were normal looking

please go easy on me lol i'm new and slow

[edcmat-l1]

Spark plugs look normal.

[Dan636]

Spark plugs look normal.

in process of swapping plugs now, will post pics when done. so far bank 1 ground straps bent off to side on 3 of the plugs making gaps smaller on one side causing arcs to out side edge of strap...could be source of misfire. used scope to look down into cylinders - saw no water or oil intrusion. tho saw evidence on open exhaust valve that i should have been replaced( pitting on back side) at time of dod delete -but ya know money so i just lapped them before going back in head. electrode tips deformed mushroomed out or at angle. did not gap plugs out of box .040.


tho on a positive not with the maf closer to zero she gets down the road a lot better...probably going to turn everything back on like dfco and cot etc so i can really dive into the vve. silversurfer77s video on using dynamic air showed me how to set all the math and filters up for tuning vve so i made the table and boy there is a lot of red on it.....also a lot of -20+ numbers around idle stuff too.

so are you saying that i should just expect to go through plugs this quickly?

also - any advise about the misfire counter?

i really am trying to learn, not trying to weigh down the forum and pester the community. genuinely seeking guidance.

hell if you offer a service that i could purchase and have a good conversation about this stuffs i would.

in the area i live in there are no tuners or performance shops around where i could pick professionals brain about it.

[edcmat-l1]

You shouldn't be going through plugs any quicker than normal. Nothing looks strange color wise on those plugs. They are not clear and close up enough to see anything about straps bent off the sides, etc.

It's difficult to diagnose misfires using the counters when you have a lopey cam installed. It's possible the idle quality you have it what it's going to be. Best thing to do is get the plugs in it and post a data log and a corresponding tune file.

[dassaur]

I had a similar issue to you at idle - what I found was the car was going into Open Loop for a short time, then back to CL at idle with misfire counts increasing. Maxing out misfire counting at idle cleared it right up for me. To check whether it's the same issue, let it idle in gear for a while with the scanner. When you feel the shakes, let it run until it clears, then read the log and check whether you've been in closed loop that whole time.
I had a similar misfire limit to you in idle, but maxing it out fixed it for me.

[Dan636]

okay so still at work, been pulling plugs when i haven't had any tickets to make. took a min. white back ground bank 1, grey or yellow back ground bank 2. bank 2 looks better worst plugs are the more close up. can only upload 10 per post making another. haven't had chance to log. will most likely do that on my way home.


and the misfire table is maxed out below around 4k if i remember correctly

[dassaur]

and the misfire table is maxed out below around 4k if i remember correctly

Misfire table is not maxed out in the tunes you attached.

[Dan636]

20231207_144741[1].jpg20231207_144741[1].jpg20231207_144741[1].jpg20231207_144741[1].jpg20231207_144757[1].jpg

here are the rest

[Dan636]

Misfire table is not maxed out in the tunes you attached.

i looked at revolution mode table. which table are you referring to, i'm guessing its a different one lol

[edcmat-l1]

What are you seeing that concerns you? On the plugs that is. No offense but I think like a lot of DIY guys that read too much junk on the web you're concerned about something you shouldn't be.

As for the misfire tables I don't max them anywhere. You don't have to. I try to reduce them just enough.

[dassaur]

i looked at revolution mode table. which table are you referring to, i'm guessing its a different one lol

Engine diagnostics -> misfore -> idle (not moving) table.

[dassaur]

What are you seeing that concerns you? On the plugs that is. No offense but I think like a lot of DIY guys that read too much junk on the web you're concerned about something you shouldn't be.

As for the misfire tables I don't max them anywhere. You don't have to. I try to reduce them just enough.

You are right of course I could probably find the right balance, but it fixed my issue. Check the scanner OP and see what fuelling mode you are in.

[Dan636]

You are right of course I could probably find the right balance, but it fixed my issue. Check the scanner OP and see what fuelling mode you are in.

says cl - normal unless heavy accel or decel. however maf set 400 and above, been that way since my first email tune...20 logs after had issues all over the place that werent nailed down like idle getting hung, lunging when coming to a stop, and hard starting.

2nd email tuner changed a few things got it running better and then said i was finished.

What are you seeing that concerns you? On the plugs that is. No offense but I think like a lot of DIY guys that read too much junk on the web you're concerned about something you shouldn't be.

As for the misfire tables I don't max them anywhere. You don't have to. I try to reduce them just enough.

the electrodes being shaped the way they are with such little mileage. and no offense taken. not exactly diy was a tech for a few years before swapping to advisor, now i'm service manager(scary right?) but i guess technically i could be considered diy cause i did install this cam lol.


will have log soon, almost time for pulling doors down. prob will start up and let idle a few, then start driving and start driving the end log. then when i get home will log just warm idle.

[Dan636]

logged a kinda cool start log and idle log, drive log if needed, and a warm idle log. fresh plugs seems to be a lot better. happed once about mid warm idle log. started shaking rpms dropped some not much then went back to idling okay.

turned cot on and dfco and long term fuel trims.. they didn't do much tho lol

[edcmat-l1]

logged a kinda cool start log and idle log, drive log if needed, and a warm idle log. fresh plugs seems to be a lot better. happed once about mid warm idle log. started shaking rpms dropped some not much then went back to idling okay.

turned cot on and dfco and long term fuel trims.. they didn't do much tho lol

I'm assuming the idle dip at 1:05 is your issue.

If you look at the first screen shot your RPM right before the idle dip is 770 rpm.

rpm right before bobble.jpg

If you look at the next screen shot you'll see the throttle angle closed up slightly to bring the RPM back in check. The reason the blade closed is because the spark control is too soft.

throttle angle at bobble.jpg

[Dan636]

I'm assuming the idle dip at 1:05 is your issue.

If you look at the first screen shot your RPM right before the idle dip is 770 rpm.

rpm right before bobble.jpg

If you look at the next screen shot you'll see the throttle angle closed up slightly to bring the RPM back in check. The reason the blade closed is because the spark control is too soft.

throttle angle at bobble.jpg

i see that. so should i go back to same settings that i had from tuner( remember you had suggested making the idle over under table softer, tho that was before i repaired a couple of leaks) or should i up them by a small percentage and try that?

[edcmat-l1]

i see that. so should i go back to same settings that i had from tuner( remember you had suggested making the idle over under table softer, tho that was before i repaired a couple of leaks) or should i up them by a small percentage and try that?

There is some middle ground between factory and where you have them.