Hemi has baby chop.

**dodgeboy** · 12-14-2023

I don't think you want it to idle like that in gear. You want it smooth so the car doesn't, "buck" and "idle surge".

**jratdebom** · 12-14-2023

So I just revisited the car after a week and a half, and here is what it sounds like on the original tune I uploaded when I created this thread. It has decent chop, maybe the PCM did some learning while I was gone? The only issue I am finding now is that its popping a little at idle and lot more when its cold. PS will try other submitted files within the next 24 hrs.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Charger/com...a_stage_2_cam/

**MakurFab** · 12-15-2023

Originally Posted by dodgeboy

Did you hear the car in that video? LOL I had a highly recommended tuner tune my car, I don't need to put my stupid fingers in it. I just get a P0308 after the car sits all winter and I take it out in the spring and thrash it.

Yes p308 misfire cyl#8. If your worried about it tell your highly recommended tuner. I was just sharing the codes I received because of testing crazy idle numbers and from what you mentioned you might have the same or similar situation. I am curious, and I mean this with no disrespect why did you have your car tuned by someone else. By the reply comments you leave with suggestions and from what other people say about your tuning I assumed you would tune your own vehicles. Or does your expertise stop at the transmission ?

**Spray-Cam Hell-Ram** · 12-16-2023

Originally Posted by MakurFab

what I am really scratching my head over is all anybody ever talks about is the P/N idle. I want in drive as well and nobody seems to talk about that so its trial and error I guess.

Yea, Ive noticed this as well, which is exactly why I made light mention of it in my first or second post on this thread. So personally, in the Proportional Drive table, I leave all of the rpm error column header values as is, and seem to like my cam's output best with the following values input in this table: Under -1000 and +1000m rpms I currently have -37.5 down this column and +37.5 down the +1000 rpm column (I have a 2016 so some of you guys might have a different variation of this table, I know some of the older model Ram tunes only have a single input for each column or rpm error heading so instead of having 37.5's down the whole column, you would just put 37.5 in your single block located under or next to your +1000 rpm block and so on)...Continuing on, and working from the outer most cells of the table and working our way to the center, the next rpm error column header values I have are -200 and +200 rpms, and under these I currently have inputs down each column of -35.50 and +35.50 respectively. Working towards the center still, the next rpm error column header values I have are -100 and +100 rpms. And down each of these columns, I currently have input -33.50 for the negative column and +33.50 all down the positive 100 rpm column. The next two, which are the two columns on either side of the 0 column...which in my table, are -15 and +15... I have -33.50 and +33.50 again for these two columns as well. And though you may find that you have a better cam chop by inputting a larger positive value down the 0 column in your Proportional P/N table, when doing your Proportional Drive table here, we have an extra factor at play and to consider, and that being drivability. So, for this reason, I have 0's input down the entire 0 rpm column header in the center of the table. So, for any of you guys out there that have a Proportional Drive Table that looks quite different than what I have described here, particularly if your values are much lower than mine... then maybe give these inputs a try. Because I think for those of you that have the rest of your tables pretty close to where they should be and are able to maintain a steady idle after inputting these inputs for the Prop Drive table, I think you may be a bit happier with how your cam sounds at a light after the change. But also make sure that you have all of the other boxes checked that we've talked about in this thread as well. Such as -25 to -40 input in the idle area of your minimum base spark tables, make sure you have timing ranging anywhere from +25 to +40 degrees in the idle area of your Part Throttle Base, Start-up, and Lock Pin tables, make sure you have -64 input in at least the last 2 columns of your Minimum Spark Start-up table, make sure your minimum spark is set low enough in the idle area of your Spark Minimum Torque Reduction Table (The one right under your minimum base and start up spark tables that's labeled "Torque Reduction"), and finally, make sure you don't have any "off the wall" inputs in your Integral and Derivative Tables when trying these Prop Drive table inputs. Go back and set Integral Park and Drive tables somewhere around -9 to +30 for Drive and -9 to 44 for Park (If you have a 5.7L, if you have a 6.1, 6.2, or a 6.4L, just make sure the Integral and Derivative tables aren't wildly different than stock values). For the Prop Park and Drive tables On the Idle Torque Throttle side, something close to -12 to 24 for Drive and -12 to 30 for Park would do. Also make sure you have at least something in the -40 to +40 range for your Minimum/Maximum Deriv High and Low inputs and Min/Max Drive inputs going down the left side of your Idle>Airflow page. (I believe I use -56 and +56 for these and +75 for the "Max P/N" input. In my Proportional P/N table I currently have -52 down all of the negative columns and +52 down all of the positive columns as well as down the "0" column in thew center. When you are finished with changes to your Idle>Airflow page, you should notice that all of your biggest changes will have been made under the "Idle Torque Spark" heading or in my case, all on the left side of the page. And everything under "Idle Torque Throttle" heading will be closer to what's listed above for those with a 5.7L, or closer to the stock tune values for others, but maybe with very minor changes made. And this is more so for those who are newer and/or are struggling to get their cam to chop, or just would like to improve on what they have now. If you've found something different that is working, then roll with it! Hopefully this will get someone's cam reading this out there, chopping better at a light or stop sign at the very least...

**jratdebom** · 12-17-2023

exactly, you only want to do the P/N tables on stock converter so it doesnt chop and toss you around in gear. You could get around it with an aftermarket converter but it will feel like a slug on the street

**jratdebom** · 12-17-2023

you should go into the engine diagnosis tab and change the minimum misfire RPM, mines at like 3000. a choppy idle doesnt guarantee a misfire free idle especially with an aftermarket cam.

**Mully95** · 12-19-2023

Originally Posted by jratdebom

exactly, you only want to do the P/N tables on stock converter so it doesnt chop and toss you around in gear. You could get around it with an aftermarket converter but it will feel like a slug on the street

Is there a way to change the Drive tables so that there isn't much tossing around? I have a aftermarket cam and stock converter. I know it needs a higher stall however it doesn't buck that much at a complete stop... just a little bit. I don't have to stand on the brakes to hold it... but it would be nice to maybe bring the bucking down some. thanks.

**dodgeboy** · 12-21-2023

supposedly I have 3000 rpm stall in it but id does not "Flash" like older cars. In fact it acts normal until you put your foot on the brake and give it gas then it will get around 3k (depending on road conditions) before the wheels start to spin. I guess this summer I should try to contact OST (the tuner I used) and see if he is willing to change some things in my tune to loosen it up and make it idle the way I'd like it to. He's touted as the best in my area and does a lot of MOPAR tuning.

**Spray-Cam Hell-Ram** · 12-22-2023

Originally Posted by Mully95

Is there a way to change the Drive tables so that there isn't much tossing around? I have a aftermarket cam and stock converter. I know it needs a higher stall however it doesn't buck that much at a complete stop... just a little bit. I don't have to stand on the brakes to hold it... but it would be nice to maybe bring the bucking down some. thanks.

Post your current drive tables. I'm sure we can sort that issue out for you.

**glljr82** · 12-22-2023

Spray-Cam-Hell-Ram Here is file

**Mully95** · 12-23-2023

Originally Posted by Spray-Cam Hell-Ram

Post your current drive tables. I'm sure we can sort that issue out for you.

Thread: Hemi has baby chop.

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