C6 Corvette Whipple, BTR Cam

[sjgiardina]

i'm looking for some advice/help. i have 2010 GS with a 2.9 whipple S/C and recently i had the opportunity to swap out the stock cam to BTR red hot. When i brought it to someone to tune it he mentioned that i should have a 3 bar map sensor instead of the stock sensor. i updated that and the car wouldn't idle so i found a post that indicated what needed to be changed, i did so and the car idles but of course i cannot put my foot in it and i want to have some idea of how the tune should look before i bring it to a tuner.

[rabbs88]

Did you buy the car like that or did you install the whipple? Who tuned it? Regardless, it absolutely needs a 2 or 3 bar sensor.

Need to know what sensor you used as well. If it's a GM sensor then a quick search on here will pull up multiple threads that have the proper data you need to enter.

Don't put your foot into it until it's been properly tuned.

[edcmat-l1]

i'm looking for some advice/help. i have 2010 GS with a 2.9 whipple S/C and recently i had the opportunity to swap out the stock cam to BTR red hot. When i brought it to someone to tune it he mentioned that i should have a 3 bar map sensor instead of the stock sensor. i updated that and the car wouldn't idle so i found a post that indicated what needed to be changed, i did so and the car idles but of course i cannot put my foot in it and i want to have some idea of how the tune should look before i bring it to a tuner.

By your linear and offset it should be a red label PN 12592525. If you're taking it to someone competent you shouldn't need to worry about "how the tune should look" before taking it to him. Just soft foot it over there.

[sjgiardina]

i bought the car with the whipple on it and working properly, had it for approx 4 years and in Dec one of the small screws that hold the intercooler on the bottom of the SC fell out and landed in the #2 cylinder destroying the motor. i purchased an iron block and installed the BTR stage 2 cam, realized when i brought it to the tuner that it didn't have the GM ZR1 3 bar map sensor like whipple claimed should have been installed originally so i took it apart and swapped it with that one. The car is on whipples youtube page so i assume they did the original install/tune, at least that is what i was told.

[sjgiardina]

By your linear and offset it should be a red label PN 12592525. If you're taking it to someone competent you shouldn't need to worry about "how the tune should look" before taking it to him. Just soft foot it over there.

That is the part no of the one i installed, i updated the tune with those basic parameters so it would idle correctly. The one issue we saw when it was on the dyno was somewhere around 3100 he was seeing the car go completely lean as if the pump wasn't keeping up. i do have the MSD boost a pump, which doesn't have much for changing parameters but i was able to console into it and change the voltage settings in hopes that the next time i make it to the tuner that helps but that was taking a shot in the dark.

[gtstorey]

Check the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge.

[edcmat-l1]

That is the part no of the one i installed, i updated the tune with those basic parameters so it would idle correctly. The one issue we saw when it was on the dyno was somewhere around 3100 he was seeing the car go completely lean as if the pump wasn't keeping up. i do have the MSD boost a pump, which doesn't have much for changing parameters but i was able to console into it and change the voltage settings in hopes that the next time i make it to the tuner that helps but that was taking a shot in the dark.

All forced induction engines should have a fuel pressure gauge on them, mounted so it's visible from the driver's seat. I recommend you install one permanently, but there needs to be one on the car least for the duration of the tuning process. You shouldn't be doing any full throttle pulls, dyno or street, without monitoring your fuel pressure the entire time. Don't just check it at idle and assume it's going to be fine under WOT.

If the pump is original it would be safe to assume it needs one. It also needs a fuel pump hotwire kit.

[sjgiardina]

Check the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge.

we did that when we had it on the dyno and if i remember correctly it was around 58psi

[edcmat-l1]

we did that when we had it on the dyno and if i remember correctly it was around 58psi

The above statement seems to contradict your first one. With a fuel pressure gauge on the car it should have been plainly obvious.

That is the part no of the one i installed, i updated the tune with those basic parameters so it would idle correctly. The one issue we saw when it was on the dyno was somewhere around 3100 he was seeing the car go completely lean as if the pump wasn't keeping up. i do have the MSD boost a pump, which doesn't have much for changing parameters but i was able to console into it and change the voltage settings in hopes that the next time i make it to the tuner that helps but that was taking a shot in the dark.

[sjgiardina]

The above statement seems to contradict your first one. With a fuel pressure gauge on the car it should have been plainly obvious.

the tuner installed a gauge on the fuel rail, i watched it and it dropped 1-2 psi but something he was seeing in the tuning software showed that it went lean at a certain point like the pressure was dropping and then coming back up. I wasn't in the car so i couldn't see what he was looking at. he made several pulls to ~4000 rpm, it was putting down around 400hp but he was baffled why around 3100 rpms it was going lean and then immediately after it would go back to normal.

i understand without anyone seeing what happened this will be hard to say what is going on.

[GHuggins]

You need to flatline or rather 0 out the injection timing rpm table and then disable desoot. Your tuner should have known that. Granted this is if fuel pressure isn't actually dropping off.

Whipple was bad for screwing up injection timing when they started trying to copy my methods of doing it. Actually surprised with the time period they tuned yours that it doesn't have the boundary table screwed up too. They would jack it through the roof right around that rpm area you were describing which would make them do all sorts of weird things.

Pumps are bad on these. I recommend the screw type pump if they still make them for them. Those were awesome pumps and would support 1000rwhp. Took some modifying to make them fit, but they could move some fuel.