06 GTO L92 swap

[[email protected]]

Should I go back to the original map sensor and and put a tube piece one it to make it fit the ls3 intake?

[edcmat-l1]

Should I go back to the original map sensor and and put a tube piece one it to make it fit the ls3 intake?

No, just adjust the linear and offset for the map sensor you have in it now.

[[email protected]]

Hey, I know its been awhile. I changed the setting on the MAF like you said still didnt start.

[blindsquirrel]

Can you post the most recent tune file so we can look at the changes you've made, or should we assume everything is right this time?

[[email protected]]

5.hpl5.hpl

I have attached the scan from 2 days ago.

[[email protected]]

gto-02.hpt
This is the tune.

[edcmat-l1]

It has a dead battery.

Cranking RPM is 70ish. Voltage drops under 9 volts. Battery is most likely total junk. No tuning is gonna fix that. Before you even turn the key on it's 11.7 volts. Key on not cranking it's down to 9.6. Put a battery in it.

[[email protected]]

I had been cranking it for awhile. These are the other ones i did that night. Some of them I shot some starter fluid in it to get it to start.2.hpl3.hpl4.hpl

[blindsquirrel]

Power to the injectors? Is there signal to the injectors while cranking? Are the injectors spraying any fuel? Do they spray fuel if you pulse them manually?

(still using LS2 injector data with LS3 parts is another thing, but we'll burn that bridge when we get to it)

[[email protected]]

When I did the noid light test I got no pulse

[TheMechanic]

Hey, I know its been awhile. I changed the setting on the MAF like you said still didnt start.

Reading through this and saw you said "I changed the setting on the MAF". Is that a typo? Did you mean to say MAP? The MAP settings were the ones that needed adjustment

[edcmat-l1]

I had been cranking it for awhile. These are the other ones i did that night. Some of them I shot some starter fluid in it to get it to start.2.hpl3.hpl4.hpl

That's a typical response. And BTW the 2 data log is the same thing. After just a couple seconds the cranking rpm drops below 100 and the battery voltage is 9.6ish. But lemme guess "that ain't it".

[edcmat-l1]

From log 2....

bad battery.jpg

[[email protected]]

yes that was a typo I meant to say map

[[email protected]]

So i would get no pulse from the noid light test if the battery go to 9V?? I'll go buy another battery right now if thats the problem. Also just put the battery on charge

[edcmat-l1]

So i would get no pulse from the noid light test if the battery go to 9V?? I'll go buy another battery right now if thats the problem. Also just put the battery on charge

LOL it's the basis for everything. You can't start a car with a bad battery. Charging a bad battery does not fix a bad battery. You have to be able to charge and test a battery properly to even know if it's a good or bad battery.

It's nothing complicated. You don't need to fix it by tooning. You can't fix it by tooning. It's basic auto 101.

[[email protected]]

I got the battery tested its good.

[[email protected]]

6.hpl

I did this one after the charge.

[blindsquirrel]

When you first changed the VATS, did you do 'write entire'?
Whenever the 2-bar OS accidentally got applied, did you do 'write entire'?
When you un-did the 2-bar OS and went back to stock, did you do 'write entire'?

[[email protected]]

yes I did