I'm going to look into that for sure. I am also going to look into getting stock valve covers or some that have a screw on cap instead of the push in style. I am just not sure if i would have any issues due to using the comp cams shaft mount rocker setup.
They make the valve cover spacers. They aren't bad. That's how I ran stock covers with the shaft mounts. Just glue them to the heads instead of using the cheapo rubber strings that come with them. You can also take a 2x4 and slightly alter the baffles if they still don't have "just enough room"
2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80
~Greg Huggins~
Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
Mobile Tuning Available for North Georgia and WNC
Didn't realize they made those. I've just always searched for the Tall valve covers. Good to know.
Just wanted to report back here with data for the op. I just drained the catch can on my ls7 after ~2500 miles. I got .5 ounces out of it. This was definitely spirited driving with lots of trips to 7k rpm. No track time. Not a ton of engine braking as I've noticed lots of engine braking sucks alot more oil into the can.
Hey man thanks for reporting back. I definitely had the plumbing wrong on the catch can and it has helped out tremendously! That's really good on .5oz. per 2500mi. How much power are you making? Is the engine modified? I have alot of hills around here so i do quiet a bit of engine braking. I haven't gotten a chance to test in the heat of summer yet and still have an issue with the silly "push in" style oil cap that leaks. It's only good for about a month, then starts leaking from the heat cycles. School just started back so i'm going to pop off the valve cover and have one of the guys from the welding class weld in a bung so i can have a properly sealing oil cap. After that, I should be good to go, but for now, i am probably catching 1/10th of what it was. Much much better.Originally Posted by 92rsz
It's full bolt ons heads/cam. No dyno numbers, but injector duty cycle and dragy times agree it's making around 670 horsepower at the crank. I think you'll notice a lot more oil in the can with engine braking but it sounds like you're getting it sorted. Good luck!
when u have done a high rpm run and then go straight into decel all the oil being flung around inside then has vacuum to it and then it will suck more thru into the catch, if ur using a pcv valve that will limit the vacuum to the crank case as u dont want full vac to it
Nice! What heads did you go with? I purchased a set of OEM heads from AHP that had the guides fixed, milled .020 and ported. Oh.. and how does the injector duty cycle correspond to HP output?
Aww mannn.. Now you're taking out all the fun! lol So, are you saying that it's better to install a pcv valve even if the valley plate has the barb with an orifice?
either a pcv valve or if the fitting already has a restricted outlet is fine, i think the factory valley outlets use the smaller hole inside to restrict it ?
Ok, Gotcha. I appreciate the info.
They're ahp heads ported and milled .030. If you know the bsfc of the engine (I'm using .45 which is where ls7s usually sit) you can use a website's injector calculator to get a general idea of how much horsepower the engine makes at specific duty cycle (assuming your tune is on point which mine is). It's not super scientific, but that info and my dragy times are within 20 horsepower of each other
Interesting. I applied the math formula to the scanner to try to get an idea of HP. I'll have to look into that.
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