Honestly I don't know why your changes are different. We should have the same graphs and everything. All I'm doing is what you've been doing, just copy and paste multiply by half %. I know you want to learn but that's literally all I'm doing so you already know that much.
Are your numbers in the "MAF Open Loop" graph all negative with a green shade? That's what they should be if it's rich. Obviously multiplying by a negative number will bring the values down but yours are going up for some reason.
That last log looks much better. If your comfortable with it you can give the 1-2 shift another try. If you compare and older tune to this one you'll see what I adjusted in the shift scheduling to try and fix that. It might take some trial and error.
As far as the stalling while coming to a stop, is that a new thing now or has it been doing this? I made a few small changes there to see if that helps.
As always, check out the comparison log to see what I changed so your not just flashing a tune blind. So far it's just been minor things
My MAF values are all showing red and are all positive. I’m not showing a single negative number. I’m away from my laptop but I will take a screen shot and share them tonight when I get home. I have been comparing everything you have changed trying to figure out what is going on. I will also take a screen shot of my last MAF adjustment so you can see it compared to what your table looked like. They were almost identical, but mine caused the truck to go super rich and yours brought everything back to where the tune was suppose to be. As for the stalling…. That has just started with the last few tune adjustments. I am going to compare every table from your latest to my last adjustments and go through my channels again to see what I can find.
Attached are the my MAF OL Layout screen shot, and both the last tune adjustment I made and the last scan on the truck from the tune that I put on the truck before you sent the tune adjustments from this morning. I will have a scan soon from the latest adjustments that you did. IO went through the tune and see the changes. I will let you know if they helped.
Just did a scan. Your changes worked. The added timing at idle helped the surging and the truck ran smoother at low rpms. Attached is a screen shot of the MAF OL table during the scan so you see what I do. Also is the scan that I just did. I'm not changing anything until we figure out why your seeing different in your HPT from mine.
Glad to hear the timing helped. It looked a little low for your cam.
Your MAF graph issue is that your only plotting what the MAF is reading in lbs per hr. Theres no math bring calculated with that parameter. No clue how that happened but it's an easy fix. Just click the blue link next to parameter and change it to "EQ error ratio". I believe it's under maths-> lambda & afr-> EQ error ratio. I'm not at my laptop at the moment but let me know if you have any trouble changing it. The logs you just took should read correct after it's fixed, no need for a new log
I changed the parameter and took a screen shot to share. Now the graph is showing Riiiich which is better than what I was seeing. I'm not sure how it got changed since the MAF table has work right before. It was my fault as I was the one that built the table. The timing was set from the initial startup tune that was made when I had to build the new motor.
That looks much better. Should be smooth sailing from here if you want to get the MAF done yourself. Should only take 2-3 quick logs and the MAF will be very close
I don't think it is a major problem, but I have found that I can't adjust my MAF table out any further past 9,750. You can see in the tune attached file what it did after I made the adjustments. Something else that caught my attention is the truck seems to lay over towards 6000 rpm, and the Inj DC is past max in the scanner. I have 30# injectors in the truck now. Do you think #42's will be enough to fix the problem? The truck will rarely see these rpm's for awhile, but it is better to resolve the problem asap.
I think you'll have enough adjustment in the MAF to be where you need to be. Making a flatline at the very top like you did is the only thing you can do unfortunately. If for some reason you don't have enough MAF adjustment you can run one of the custom OS's and run speed density full time to get around that.
You will absolutely need injectors. They are at 100% duty cycle at only 4000 RPM and 140% at the very top. You went very lean in that log. I wouldn't have it to the floor above 4k until that's fixed. The 42lb LS3 injectors should be plenty for your build. Just double check that they fit your setup, I believe they will. They hold up fine to about 500WHP on the Camaros and are pretty affordable. Plus the injector data is easily converted for gen 3 stuff.
I have already converted the harness for the LS2/3 injectors, but I have to run the short injectors to work with my rails because I still have the return style fuel system. In your opinion should I look for a standard #42 or go with a flex fuel injector?
Either or should be plenty of injector for what you have. If you have future plans to make more power I would say get the larger ones just in case. Just be sure to get genuine GM injectors and not some Ebay or off brand new ones. Good injectors are absolutely critical
I have already learned my lesson on the injectors. It will be GM from now on. Attached is the tune and last scan. I turned everything back on if you want to give it a look and see if you would change anything or suggest something different.
The log is not what I expected to see to be honest. The narrowbands are saying your rich everywhere and pulling fuel while the wideband is reading lean. Looks like they're swinging around 1.10 ish Lambda when they should be right around 1. I don't believe your wideband is inaccurate since it reads exactly what your commanding in open loop.
Two things I noticed at a glance that should be changed in the tune. Under Engine -> Fuel -> Oxygen Sensors, Change your ECT vs IAT table to -40 across the board and bring the "Min Learn" table under LTFT down from 200% to 4%. Not sure how that ended up so high. I don't know if that will fix the issue but it certainly won't hurt.
If that doesn't work, here's the tune I posted in post #137 in this thread when I made changed to your O2 sensor settings. If you want to, compare your current tune to this and copy over the differences from ONLY the Engine -> Fuel -> Oxygen Sensors tab.
Everything else looks alright for now. Perfectly safe to cruise around in until you get some bigger injectors.
I'm not sure how it got to 200% but I made the change. I am making adjustments to the O2 tables also. I don't know how I missed you sending the file. I also think the 1870 code is from the converter. I know your a manual guy, but I replaced the converter so I don't think it is the issue. However, the converter like I have mentioned before does lock out like the transmission did before the upgrade and higher stall. I will look into it and see what I can come up with and share. One question though... What is the reason for changing the ECT vs. IAT to -40 for closed loop? I just want to understand because of the difference from the stock settings to your adjustment.
Scan with your O2 changes. I also made a slight change to the base idle table and idle AF to fix the in drive characteristics. The wideband is still reading lean but the motor did run a little smoother. The O2 graph has alot more red in it now.
The stock tunes always have -40 in that table across the board as far as I'm aware. All it does it allow the ECU to go into closed loop at temps warmer than -40 degrees (which is always). I've just always left that table stock and let the PCM always allow closed loop.
The O2 graph is just a stock graph from HP Tuners. Just takes an average of what the narrowband millivolts are at certain points. I wouldn't pay too much attention to that one
The last log is a little better but not where it should be yet. I don't believe your wideband is reading incorrectly so we can adjust the narrowbands to match what the wideband reads. I had to adjust them on my car a little but only about 2% where as yours is about 6%. Not a huge difference but enough to make me question is something is wrong. We will see
Anyway, here's what you can do for now. Go into Engine -> Fuel -> Oxygen Sensors and you'll see 2 tables under "Rich Lean vs Airflow" labeled "Bank 1" and "Bank 2". Those determine the switching voltage for what the narrowbands define to be stoich. Higher millivolts means richer and lower is leaner. Right now they're at 450 so I would adjust them to maybe 475 or 500 just to see if that brings the stoich target any closer.
If you set up a chart vs time like my attached screenshot, you'll be able to see how close the narrowbands are switching around the commanded EQ. Luckily for these adjustments you won't need any long driving logs. Just a quick steady state cruise for maybe a minute or two is plenty.
I made the O2 adjustment and set up the scanner using the screen shot you shared. While I was in the editor I started looking through the trans tables and they were all over the place. Once I get those straightened out I will share a scan again and let you see the changes. I did pull up the stock tune and did a compare on the CL temp and the table that you looked at was the factory settings. I still changed to the -40 as suggested.
I bumped the O2 rich lean and also added some transmission channels at the bottom. I went through the scan again and watched the lambda read out and it is still a little above the 1.00 commanded but it is a little better. The scan attached has the O2 adjustment, but I did the scan to test the trans channels and Chart/Time to see if everything was working.
Honestly that last log looked worse? Which is very confusing since higher mv is richer. It's hitting up in the the 1.20 range now where before would hit around 1.15ish max.
Not to sound like I'm just taking shots in the dark here but try going the other way to like 425 and see what happens. The goal is to have the swings go from a little over 1.0 to a little under 1.0 and obviously try to keep the 1.0 right in the middle.
If you can't get enough of Cringer's videos (Silversurfer77) he has a good one on O2 tuning as well.
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