to adjust the a/f ratio do i go to the fuel map and add more fuel or take out fuel.
to adjust the a/f ratio do i go to the fuel map and add more fuel or take out fuel.
You should read how the scanner works. Its not in the tune file. You will be using the scanner to generate data logs. Find the scanner and read through some of the documentation. Look at every option and every window. You will find the idle control, a/f ratio control, and other controls there. It is a powerful tool you should become familiar with.
ok thanks i look more into it and all check in tomorrow
alr i have been having trouble uploading the video.
Good job its a start.
1. The RPM says 0rpm in your scanner and it is not logging. Why does your scanner stop logging, or when?
2. The Air fuel control isn't working. The engine should make a drastic change to the air fuel ratio when you adjust it. Is it turned "ON"? Usually the button turns GREEN when its on.
3. You need to become diagnostically proficient. When you are adjusting the air fuel ratio, did you think 'hey I dont know whether its working? How can I prove the scanner is doing anything?' you should have turned off an injector (Disable injector #1, #2, #3, etc...) to show us that the scanner is in control and the engine have some misfires without injectors pulsing. Right now I cant even tell if the scanner is connect or not, nobody can tell unless you 'proof' the diagnostic.
notes
I think you are using a touch pad for a laptop? I strongly strongly recommend you get a mouse and setup a mouse for you to use in the vehicle. Touchpads are not tuning tools. You will make mistakes like glancing over a button and not really pressing it.
Yea I was like why doesn?t look any different when I changed the air:fuel, but yea I?ll check it out again when I got homeOriginally Posted by kingtal0n
so after i actually put on the air to fuel it turns off.
Yeah because you commanded an air fuel of zero! Impossible. An engine would run like 11.0 to 16.0 but not zero
Stay away from 11's and less because of carbon fouling
Set the a/f to like 15:0 and press "ON" and then see what A/F it requires to reach 15.0 on the gauge vs what it says on the scanner
Then increase it up and down while watching the gauge. Make the gauge go as low as like 12.8 to 13.2 and as high at 16.0~ and let it run for a few seconds at each setting as you adjust so i Can observe the behavior of the gauge flickering (dont change the a/f quickly)
alr so around 12 11 it felt smoth and not too much flickering
Excellent We are verified your Wideband is reading correctly and seems to be working fine. The data on the gauge matches the data in HPtuners. I do not detect any misfire or leaking.
Now almost rdy to start tune the engine.
Before these next steps however, lets make 100% sure that you can disable each injector 1 at a time and notice an a/f change that is the same for every cylinder. Set the a/f on the gauge around 14.5 to do this from baseline then disable each injector 1 at a time to see the a/f change the same amount.
I would also like if you did a compression test.
In the ECU
Turn off All closed loop, Short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trims (LTFT).
Go into the FUEL tab GENERAL start reading all the settings. You can take a screen shot and circle things you are not sure about if you want and post them here.
You need to very importantly, Correct the DISPLACEMENT of the engine, make sure its right.
Then Correct the Injector table, injector SIZE (Flow rate). And the injector DATA
You will need
1. Injector size and manufacturer
2. Injector Data sheet
3. Actual fuel pressure
4. Style of fuel pressure system (regulator reference style) Does it reference MAP pressure ?
With these first things you can move forward, tell me this information as you input it, I Don't want to move too fast but now is the time to familiarize yourself with basically every table in the software, Read the descriptions, etc...
alr let me look in more into all the setting and also ima need to buy a compression tester. ill do the injector test tomorrow
Also if you have a MAF sensor you should read up how to disable it. Basically turn off the 3x MAF related (its like the first 3 check boxes under Engine diag CODE usually) SES check boxes and select "MIL ON FIRST ERROR" I think thats how you do it.
If this causes the engine to start difficult you can increase a table I will show you where let me know what happens
alr so i tried the injector test and their a big difference with injector 2 and 8 they go more lean than the other injectors
When you disable injector #2, try unplugging injector #2 at the same time to see if its actually injector #2
It may be that #2 and #8 injector wires are switched.
Is this a swap engine? Stock harness? I dont know anything about the engine you should add these details asap. Engine where it came from how many miles, original engine or not, what year is everything, did you change any parts.
What are the injectors from. How old are they. Have they been cleaned. What type of fuel rail, dead head or return style, what was done to the fuel system?
You should probably
1. Check fuel pressure
2. Compression test especially #2 and #8 if they are not crossed
3. Consider cleaning the injectors if they are old or buying new injectors if you do not have DATA For them
I need more info to really guide you to the next step. However the fact the engine goes so much leaner when those injectors are disabled makes me think either they are swapped or they are leaking or there is something up with the induction system e.g. air intake or compression or exhaust clogging on that side
You can also try disabling the coils #2 and #8 and compare them to other cylinders as well.
Look for exhaust leaking on that side of the engine as well.
Does the engine run noticeably MORE rough when those cylinders are disabled? If so that is a clear sign of some issue
This may lead to replacing the injectors or/and remove the intake manifold to examine the injector spray patterns on the valve/head port walls if there is significant mileage.
Basically at this point you need
A. Solid compression on all cylinders
B. Same plug conditions on all cylinders
C. Similar/Same behavior on all cylinders
A trick to tuning and performance applications in multi-cylinder engines is before we even start doing anything we verify every cylinder is carrying its equal weight and also that the engine is very very clean inside. Look at the oil condition carefully. Smell the oil. Did you ever look under the valve covers for evidence of sludge? I still know nothing about your engine so I am getting carried away. But these details will help you now and in the future as you progress diagnostically.
Last edited by kingtal0n; 08-29-2023 at 06:46 PM.
alr so yes its a swap into a obs. the harness i trimmed it down removing stuff i didn't need for the swap. not sure how many miles the engine has but its a 2005 5.3 lm7 from a Silverado. the only things i did to the engine where long tube. the engine is stock, stock injectors. i never haved opened it its also a return less style fuel system, with a corvette style fuel filter. and a 340lph fuel pump. ima try to check out if their are switched but for the compression test and fuel pressure ima have to whait till tomorow to go buy the tools.
You will look at the plugs on 2 4 6 8 and compare them.
If they are whiter on 2 and 8 its likely you have air leaking. This leads to a pressure test where we fill the intake system with air pressure.
If they are darker on 2 and 8 its likely they are leaking or switched. this leads to injector cleaning, wiring, or new injectors.
For compression testing. If you buy a new tool its a great investment get a good one.
Fuel pressure is a set and forget type of thing if you can't monitor it while driving. You can often rent a fuel pressure tester for free at auto parts store.
I do not recommend renting a compression tester they are often bad.
In fact I would prefer you have 2 compression testers to compare with in general. Not necessary but ideal.
When you perform the compression test. Write down the number immediately and try to get a decimal. Like this 152.5, 156.7, 162.8, etc...
Make sure you get the same number of 'hits' on each cylinder. Count the revolutions by ear with all the spark plugs removed.
I would Test the injector wiring and look at plugs before performing any compression testing however. Get that out of the way try to nail the simple stuff first.
If some cylinders have plugs which are very difficult to remove stop and we can maybe figure something else out for now. Eventually you will need to change them but depending how hard they are to access we can work around it.
Also you should pick up a new set of spark plugs, copper cheap plugs for your engine. NGK Stock Heat range if its a stock engine.
And. Eventually you will want a brand new set of NGK Iridium plugs if you can, for the future. You won't need them for perhaps 3 to 5 months but you will eventually desire a nice iridium plug in there if you intent to drive the engine a hundred thousand miles once its finished tuning and setting up. Use stock heat range or one step colder is fine, if you live in a hot climate and plan to use 87 octane fuel maybe 1 step colder is a good idea. The LM7 will tolerate 87 well.
Also a pictures and videos of the engine will help me with diagnosis. You should have factory PCV hooked up. Check on that PCV system it is very important. Use a factory air filter if you can.
Alr ima do all this, you want me to compare the spark plugs right, also the spark plugs are brand new ngk
You are looking for the inconsistency which was revealed in the scanner/wideband diagnostic injector test.
Either there is
1. a problem with injectors (wiring, leaking, voltage, etc...)
2. a problem with compression
3. a problem with exhaust leaking (#2 and #8 possible exhaust leaking for those tubes)
4. a problem with intake manifold leaking
The wideband can only average all cylinder or cylinders on a bank. Is the wideband installed in a place where it can read all 8 cylinders fully? And if not, which bank is it installed to?
You should be disabling the injector and removing the injector wiring plug to make sure they are wired correctly.
You should be looking at plugs to see whether there is some difference on those cylinders.
You should be checking compression to ensure there is no significant difference between cylinders. Write down the numbers it is very important for future reference.
You should check around the exhaust ports of #2 and #8 for leaking puffs of exhaust on your hands when the engine is COLD so it does not burn you.
You can pressure test the intake manifold with compressed air to find leaking intake ports.
Something will reveal the inconsistency. Make a list of the easiest things you can do, in order from easy to difficult. Do the easy things first.
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alr so so far i tested the fuel pressure it came out around 53,54 psi, but the Guage was leaking a little bit so that may be why it's a bit low but not sure. so i removed spark plug 2 and 4 https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FlPBn9SNwB4 right now im about to remove 6 and 8
i fergot to mention the one on the right is plug 2 and the left is 4 and for this one the right one is 6 and the left one is 8https://www.youtube.com/shorts/UmnHpmLhHKg
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