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Thread: LC-1 Installation

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    LC-1 Installation

    Alright guys,

    I've done some reading on the LC1 and interfacing it with my HP Tuners EIO and it seems most of the problems with it are related to grounding. Both cars I'll be tuning with this have 4 gauge wire between the battery, chassis and block, as well as several 10/12 gauge drops around the dash/engine area that are tied off of this grounding "backbone" (I have electric gauges and like consistent readings). My PCM and sensor grounds tie to these, as does my OBDII port.

    Is there any reason I cannot ground all my LC1 points to this grounding system? I read their instructions stating that the heater circuit needs to be grounded away from the data grounds. Is there noise induced from this or are they just worried about it pulling inadequate grounds up? My setup should certainly be able to absorb this anyway, but I can always isolate it if it's that big of a deal.

    I've got a few years of EE schooling and a lot of years of hands-on, and the problems everyone seems to have with these units just seem unfounded to me.. am I off base here?
    Last edited by digitalsolo; 02-19-2007 at 01:09 PM.
    1988 Mazda RX7 TII - Forged 347" LS1/2004r/3600 stall/Stage III Heads/Cheatr Cam/Precision 76GTS/E85/HP Tuners 3 BAR OS

  2. #2
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    lc1 white and green to eio pin 5
    lc1 red to a power wire thats gets power when the ignition is turned on
    lc1 blue to a ground on the car so you dont need the eio or cable plugged in all the time.
    lc1 black to the calibration button and light
    lc1 brown to eio pin 1 for your wideband output.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninobrn99
    lc1 white and green to eio pin 5
    lc1 red to a power wire thats gets power when the ignition is turned on
    lc1 blue to a ground on the car so you dont need the eio or cable plugged in all the time.
    lc1 black to the calibration button and light
    lc1 brown to eio pin 1 for your wideband output.
    Yeah... I have the wiring diagrams for the LC-1, I know where the diagrams place the wires. My chassis ground, engine ground, battery ground and PCM ground are all wired with 4 and 10 gauge wire, meaning I have ~0 potential between them, which negates the entire reasoning for the wiring scheme the instructions list. I was simply asking if anyone knew the reason for keeping the heater ground distanced from the analog and system grounds (i.e. noise introduction on the circuit).
    1988 Mazda RX7 TII - Forged 347" LS1/2004r/3600 stall/Stage III Heads/Cheatr Cam/Precision 76GTS/E85/HP Tuners 3 BAR OS

  4. #4
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    honestly, i didnt see a differnce in readings wired either way.

  5. #5
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    Cool. I'm going to give it a shot with my wiring setup. If my readings suck, I'll relocate the heater ground.
    1988 Mazda RX7 TII - Forged 347" LS1/2004r/3600 stall/Stage III Heads/Cheatr Cam/Precision 76GTS/E85/HP Tuners 3 BAR OS

  6. #6
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    sounds good.

  7. #7
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    I've tried it tons of different ways and I havent noticed any difference...just make sure everthing is wired tight and you should be good to go
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