Thanks blindsquirrel, already bought the ones you suggested
Thanks blindsquirrel, already bought the ones you suggested
There are no butt connectors on the entire car. I?ll solder and heat shrink.
If you found a way to make reliable soldered splices, you're better at this car stuff than me. I prefer uninsulated crimps and the good 3M dual wall heatshrink. I've seen too many problems from soldered splices in my 20+ years.
I usually do both. Butt splice the wires with uninsulated splices and then soldier into the butt splices, followed by heat shrink. Maybe the worst of both worlds but seems to work for me.
Solder puts a lot of stress into the strands right where the solder stops, it's very unforgiving. I know some people don't like it because they see lots of lifted solder pads on circuit board through-holes but that isn't how soldered wires fail, the copper just breaks right where the solder stops. Really stiff heatshrink kinda helps but only moves the stress point to where the heatshrink stops, then the wire breaks there instead. Crimped, with heatshrink that's flexible enough to act as strain relief is the closest you can get to the durability of an unspliced length of wire.
My MPIV3 showed up today. I expected the HPT repository to be full of modified tunes.. all I saw were mostly stock.Originally Posted by 5FDP
I do have an L33 stock tune downloaded. (just noticed it does not have RTT)
Are you suggesting I use that stock tune, 2bar modify OS, then transfer/compare the VE and spark tables from Sloppy.hpt (as a starter)
I am not confident on the credit system yet and I dont want to throw $100 out the window.
Last edited by Windsma; 04-11-2023 at 07:05 PM.
RTT is no big deal, that's only on P01 computers anyway from what I remember. The 2 bar OS is better for resolution compared to the 3 bar, still good for 15 psi easy.
Tune repository only has stock tunes, no custom tunes anymore.
Anything from sloppy use with a grain of salt, I'd suggest not using anything from there. Easier to start from scratch.
It's going to cost you $100 to unlock your computer, no way around that.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
I Solder every wire in my swaps for 25 years. I've wired perhaps 100 vehicles. Never had a wire fail or break.
things I do that I think people overlook
1. Use a torch, not a soldering iron. Cold solder will be brittle and I can see this fail with mediocre irons. Butane torch ftw, very fast and hot.
2. Use enough wire overlap. Make the cross sectional area of the solder around 1/2" to 3/4" and stagger away from each other.
3. Twist the wires length wise for heat shrinking.
4. Use quality shrink
5. Use Lead solder, not the tin which has higher melting point and may become brittle more easily
I've heard every argument for crimp connectors. I am not crimping 100~ wires for an engine swap.
Also, I am not good at crimps. I can pull them apart easily no matter what tool I try. I'm sure I am doing it wrong. Nevertheless, I don't like the sight, feel, lump, or idea of crimps.
Its is personal preference for me. I am not saying solder is worse than crimping, only that Its worked fine for me since I started this car craze.
Lifted pads are overheated pads. I teach a course in soldering for college freshman each semester and we make them solder onto crappy boards to see how easy the pads fall off.
5.3/4l80e/turbo playthrough
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ge-budget.html
cancer research
https://www.mdpi.com/2306-5354/10/1/96
Thanks for the info.
I have 30 yrs experience with cars. Mostly Muscle cars, NA LS swaps, carbs and Roots blower mechanical injected alcohol drag cars.
Also, Electrical Engineering degree from 2003.
Injectors showed up from ebay and installed, they look used but have new filters and o rings. For $60 to my door sounds like a good deal to me.
Ebay pigtails have been soldered, not trying to start that debate.
Some of the uncertainty of HPT?
So flash a new os from the HPT repository that allows 5.3 with 80e segment, then change it to 2 bar, EFI source 3bar map on its way. I still need to order a wideband 02 and the mvpi3 adapter, then make the downpipe.
$100 for license im ok with,
+$100 because I screwed up and picked the wrong file, im not ok with.
The PCM is mounted in the dash (PITA to remove) it has a quick pcmhacking.net Boost OS on it currently with the 12587603 OS.
( at this point HPT has fallen short of my expectations. I could have spent just as much time configuring the FREE boost os )
So far I have modified a 2004 Express Van 6.0 80e 7603 os from the HPT repository:
changed engine type to 5.3
cylinder volume changed to .66594
applied 2 bar os
saved file, closed, reopened
injector flow rate vs kpa changed to .txt data
injector offset vs. Volts vs. Vac changed to .txt data
injector Short Pulse Adder changed to .txt data
using injector info from this post https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post561968
2004Express53_80e2bar50lb.hpt
and i spent too much time copy/paste Happel's dontbsme tables and settings with decaps tune into the 7603
The fuel tab, has only changed the above .txt data for the 50lbs.
2004Express53_80e2bar50lb.hpt
Last edited by Windsma; 04-13-2023 at 11:58 PM.
Sometimes, the injector for an application will get a new number for 'reasons' but the old number and new number parts are functionally identical. Like 12580681 and 19421333. But 12613412 and 12609749 are not like that. They are different parts with different specs used in different applications. There are no L96 applications that call out 12609749s, and no L92s that call out 12613412s.
You could look just a few posts down from this one and find a post from just yesterday where I posted an updated version of my own conversions for the 12613412s in Gen 3 format.
Awesome thank you.
I transferred your entire fuel tab from post (boost referenced regulator) https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post724612
to my sloppy coppy. Hopefully this will get me in the ballpark.
2004Express53_80e2bar50lbSloppyallthethings with SquirrelFuel tab.hpt
first log if anyone has time to look at itstartup 2.hpl
I have all the things to install my wideband except the actual downpipe. Im going to diesel shops this week to find something big enough.
Went to start the engine today and it wouldnt run.
Shot some brakekleen in the turbo and it lit off and ran.
Its possible the IAT was 20degrees colder than the last time it started.
AEM X-series wideband shows up friday. I thought i could just wire a bosch wideband sensor to my prolink but nope.
Check rest fuel pressure. Make sure you don't have a leakdown issue. Kind of late to the game on the connector battle. All manufacturers have gone away from soldering of wires as a repair or manufacturing. All of the best harness manufacturers have gone away from soldering. (high end stuff). Long list of reasons including strength, corrosion, and improper application. I personally use the un-insulated connectors and heat shrink on repairs. Not only does it not create an ugly looking repair but the heat shrink aids in its inherent strength.
It has a boost referenced aftermarket regulator. There was a 20degree difference in air temp so i think my cranking table needs to me modified
Were you trying to wire your Bosch WB sensor directly to your prolink cable without a controller? Ya that won't work.
The AEM X-series is extremely fast, you will be happy with it.
Does it fire off if you give it a little throttle?
For those interested in the best type of wire joining, you may be interested...
https://youtu.be/EAr2z6rGV7o wire joining techniques by Haltech.
Yes, i thought i could get out cheaper and I dont really want a bunch of gauges on the 1967 dash.
I think it was a mixture if my map offset was negative (-10.33) which was wrong because I didnt take i to consideration baro is 14.7. I thought the map was reading 14.7 psi at idle and the 20 degree(day) difference in intake temps.
I also turned the idle up some.
Last edited by Windsma; 04-20-2023 at 11:59 AM.
AEM 30-0310 X-Series Inline Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller https://a.co/d/8bmXR3S
You don't have to have a gauge, you do have to have a controller. Won't know what AFR is and not as useful but a gauge is not necessary.
The MAP characterization settings come from the MAP Sensor manufacturer. Set it for the sensor used, and leave it.
If you still need an adapter or other LS swap parts, check out ICT Billet. https://www.ictbillet.com/
Its mostly done and the AEM gauge will be here tomorrow.
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