Long story short, the metal tank in my '98 Camaro developed a small leak which we couldn't locate. Plus, the complete 255LPH fuel sender kit I bought from a vendor didn't include the plastic bucket, so I had bad starvation issues. So, a few days ago, I had a shop install a used ;99-'02 plastic tank, a new 340LPH sender kit (excluded internal regulator) and the external C5 fuel filter/regulator (WIX 33100) conversion. My MAF & VE adjustments were already very close when using the 255LPH, internal tank regulator, and external filter.
I logged the first cold start and first warm start after completing the install while looking for leaks. Both times, fuel pressure started between 80-90PSI, then dropped to a solid 58PSI within 2 minutes.
As part of rebuilding my gauge output & primary tank volume tables, I took the car for a long drive yesterday.
* The first log from that trip shows it took 27min for the pressure to drop to 60PSI from a cold start, then remained at a solid 57-60PSI the remainder of the log (1h15min). LTFTs in this log were generally -4 to 4.
* The second log from that trip was after adding some fuel to the tank. When merging on to the county highway, it stumbled a bit when accelerating. I noticed the fuel trims were very rich and I had also forgot to add a PID to my display. I forgot to save this log when adding the PID.
* The third log, a warm start began with 56-60PSI and remained there the remainder of the log (30min). However, most of my LTFT's were -10 to -15 in that log.
If the high pressure was limited to the first minute or so, I wouldn't be so irked; I'm going to try to some replacement regulators. From the tuning and drivability perspective, which is the best way to address this behavior before the physical problem is resolved, or if a replacement regulator doesn't improve the situation? Disable LTFT's? Disable CL?
Thanks guys!