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Thread: 5.3 to Cammed 6.0 swap.

  1. #1
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    5.3 to Cammed 6.0 swap.

    I just finished swapping a 6.0 into my 1982 K20. It was previously a LM7 with a SM465. It ran and drove great, I built a LQ4 with 862 heads and a stage 1 BTR Truck cam. I have only driven maybe 15 miles with the new engine, on cold start it seems to run pretty good, but as soon as it warms up it has no power until after 3k RPM. I made an earlier post, which helped a little but after a lot of research I feel that I understand tuning and HPtuners a little better. So I apologize for the multiple post.

    Before I get roasted, I have a AEM Wideband on the way!

    NewBaseTune.hptdrivingdata.hpl

    I have noticed my Engine coolant temp is a little higher than I'd like. I installed a new 185 Thermostat when building the engine but don't think its working correctly. At idle it will creep and doesn't cool until I add some RPM. I will get a new thermostat installed. From what I have noticed it seems to pull a lot of timing. I started with a stock 5.3 LM7 tune file, added 15% to Main VE and pulled 5 degrees of timing just to try to keep it on the safe side with the added compression. I also switched it 6.0 and changed the cylinder volume. Using a compression calculator, it comes out to 10.7-1. Engine runs good, no mis-fire and idles smooth above 650rpm. I'm thinking the narrow band can't really read how lean its getting, and is pulling timing. Never tuned before but excited about this challenge, hopefully I won't have to rebuild this 6.0 again as that was a challenge in itself.

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    It has massive amounts of knock retard, that's why it's so slow. It's like constant knock on throttle.

    Either the knock sensors have pending codes or something is rubbing real bad and causing the sensors to pick up tons of noise. If it's solid motor mounts too, you'll probably have to turn off the knock sensors because they will always sense something.

    Honestly you are better off not doing any tuning until you buy different injectors. The 22lb/hr injectors you have are way way too small for this engine.


    Couple other things. The EGR is still enabled, turn that off if you can, then remove all the added timing with the EGR spark correction. The COT (cat over temp) is still on, turn that off.

    Burst knock is set wrong. 0.00 means it's always on, you want it set to 8.00 to turn it off.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  3. #3
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    It looks like Blind Squirrel tried to help you out but you pretty much did none of the changes he suggested.

    So instead of making new threads with the same questions just continue your current threads to make it easier for everyone.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5FDP View Post
    It looks like Blind Squirrel tried to help you out but you pretty much did none of the changes he suggested.

    So instead of making new threads with the same questions just continue your current threads to make it easier for everyone.
    I realized I had made the changes he suggested, but then un-did them with my new base tune. Still getting used to this stuff! Thank you for noticing that. I will make his corrections again, then will change the burst knock. Is the burst knock setting to be changed the bust knock enable delta table? You're totally right, the motor mounts are worn and causing the engine to sag a bit. The long tube headers are touching the frame rails at times while driving. I have new swap mounts that didn't quite fit I need to modify.

    I made the changes he suggested, but not the burst knock yet will do that. Wide-band just showed up, working for the next 4 days. Will update progress. As far as the injectors, I do have a set of 24# but maybe that isn't worth swapping in. When I do switch injectors how do I adjust the tune, just adjust the injector flow rate?

    Another question I have, is that when you add the wideband and are logging the afr err, is it using the wideband to distinguish the difference between commanded? That was confusing on the guide videos.

    Thank you!
    Last edited by 82SQRBDY; 12-15-2022 at 08:19 PM.

  5. #5
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    Making progress, got my Wideband installed and started making an attempt at the VE tables. Going good so far, after a few data logs, VE adjustments, re-writes and driving the spark retard is going away. I'm looking for a set of injectors, a friend has a set of LS3 injectors I'm thinking about buying. Would take me from 21# to 33#. Here's my last data log and tune file. Was difficult to get some good driving in as there was a lot of holiday traffic. Seems my new PSC power steering pump isn't happy with out a cooler either. Am I getting anywhere?


    drivingdata5.hplNewVEtune.hpt

  6. #6
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    If im not mistaken. LS3 are 43# injectors?