Budget 6.0 build tune help

[82SQRBDY]

I built a LQ4 that I got for free. It needed a complete rebuild has it has two seized rod bearings. I rebuilt with basically all new parts/bearings. I used a BTR Stage 1 truck cam kit, 863 4.8/5.3 cylinder head with the valve springs that came with the cam kit. It should be 10.7-1 compression. I saw that similar builds using the same head/bottom end made 470+ on an engine dyno. Its in an 82 square body K20. Mated to a SM465, 1 ton axles and 4.56 gear. 39" tires. It previously had a 5.3 LM7 which ran great.

It ran and drove great with the 5.3. Now with the new motor installed, after driving it loses almost all power and I noticed it is pulling all out of the timing. Fuel trims are under 10% and coolant temps are under 210. I have started with deleting all the automatic transmission dtc's and need to go road test. It is still on the 5.3 LM7 tune. I am new to HPtuners and don't know where to start. So far I bumped up the idle as it was sometimes struggling in the 5-600rpm range. Any help would be appreciatedKeeblereditog53.hpt

[blindsquirrel]

First step is to post your tune file.

Second step is more details about the parts used. Reused the same intake/injectors from the previous motor? Is it just a new long block, everything else unchanged?

[82SQRBDY]

I used the intake/injectors off of the 5.3. Universal cold air intake, long tube headers. Its a stock rebuild bottom end. I used a new crank, gen 4 rods and pistons but the same piston dish as LQ4. I had the 862 heads re-surfaced, valve job and valve springs from cam kit installed. Cam kit came with new lifters, push rods, oil pump, timing chain. Runs great and on cold start pulls pretty hard. I will get part number off injectors in the morning. Let me try to post the file, not the best at tech savvy stuff.

Ok I think I attached the tune file. I haven't road tested since deleting the auto trans DTC's and altering the idle. I also edited the torque management, but not sure if it is correct. I plan on brining it to a professional, but would be nice if it would at least drive as well as it did with the factory 5.3. As it is a crawler with a transfer case Doubler, max hp isn't that important at the moment. It barely had enough power to drive up hills unless I was constantly "clearing DTC's"

[blindsquirrel]

Still has EGR, all hooked up and functional (EGR enabled, EGR spark table not zeroed)? Catalytic converters (cat overtemp still enabled, catalyst heating spark)? AIR injection (still enabled at Engine > General & DTCs still active)?

The 5.3 was a different (auto?) trans? Using a VSS, installed where and reading what trans/transfer case component with how many teeth (disable P0502/P0503 if no VSS)? Just trying to nail down everything different from when it ran OK before.

Might want to have another look at these DTCs, they probably all need set to No Error:
P0170, P0218, P0453, P0461, P0462, P1380, P1381, P1404, P1415, P1416, P1441, P1626, P1631, P1810, P1870, P1875, U1041, U1064

[blindsquirrel]

Air Pump & Brake TqMgt need turned off, at System > General > System Options. I'm assuming you don't have an AIR pump on your rock crawler...

[82SQRBDY]

I do not have EGR, or any other emissions component. Ill change those DTC's now. How do I turn off EGR, CAT and AIR?

[blindsquirrel]

Engine > General > AIR Pump : 285*F
Engine > Exhaust > Enabled : Disabled
Engine > Fuel > Temperature Control > Catalyst Protection > COT : Disabled
Engine > Spark > Advance > EGR : zero out
Engine > Spark > Advance > Catalyst Heating > Startup Correction & Mult : zero out

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screenshot.12-12-2022 00.39.33.png

Be creative with your search terms/keywords. Sometimes it's better to use a short, partial term and scroll a little than trying to use the entire word and finding the one exact match. You can also use the parameter numbers, when you see someone say 'look at ECM 12345'.

[blindsquirrel]

The 5.3 was a different (auto?) trans? Using a VSS, installed where and reading what trans/transfer case component with how many teeth (disable P0502/P0503 if no VSS)? Just trying to nail down everything different from when it ran OK before.

[82SQRBDY]

The 5.3 was also using the SM465, no change other than Novak's correct swap flywheel to use a 12" clutch disc. The 5.3 ran great, no loss of power. It also had the automatic trans DTC's, it ran well so I had never checked the codes or computer after having a friend delete the VATS and making a couple changes with his HP tuners to get it to run.

So the only thing that has changed is, engine displacement, engine compression ratio, cam. The more I read it seems the loss of power is in the tuning of VE tables and timing. Might be out of my skill level here, and I don't have a wideband. All I was looking at on the drive was coolant temp and fuel trims. Eventually the closed loop/open loop indicator would say closed loop fault. I would clear the DTC's and it would drive better for a few minutes. I'm going to write the tune with the changes you have suggested and go for a drive. I'm assuming if torque management and the transmission DTC's wasn't causing power loss with the 5.3, they may not be the culprit now either. The good news is I know it will drive onto my trailer, which is connected to a great running Duramax, so I can tow it to a Pro if I give up lol