my truck has a problem starting when the engine is warm, it takes multiple cranks till it fires. However, when the engine is cold it starts on one crank.
2006 chevy Silverado 1500 4x4, 150,000 miles
4 in lift
off brand Holley intake manifold
cold air intake
Long tube headers
Diablo monitor and tunes (made my truck run like crap)
I'd also like to add a rev limiter on my truck if that's possible with the tuning software.
Every engine has a rev limiter.. Wether it be mechanical or electronic.
But yours is set to 5900 rpms
rev limiter.JPG
Yes, i figured that out within the editor, but im still trying to figure out what i need to adjust to get my startup issue sorted.
A lot of stuff has to be changed.
You have to retune the entire airflow model. The MAF and VE need to be retuned because of the intake manifold change. Honestly the stock intake manifold is better than what you bought.
It likely needs more base running airflow at operating temp.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Originally Posted by w.kaneyates
None of those mods should cause that and it should run fine with the stock tune.
Are you sure its holding fuel pressure while you are trying to crank it?
For somereason.. those year trucks/throttle bodies are sensitive to being junked up. I have a 06 silverado that we have to clean the throttle body every year or so or else it picks up a low idle/hard start.
Tuner at PCMofnc.com
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I just hunted down a similar issue, and mine turned out to be how I had modified my fuel delivery, however, I don't suspect that's the issue here since you haven't mentioned any upgrades in that area.
If it is heat related, the path I mostly saw in my research was that the crank position sensor went bad. The electronics within that sensor are apparently sensitive to heat, so if it's on it's way out, it might be intermittently failing when hot. This sensor is essentially on the block, passenger side, just behind the solenoid of the starter. You could also check the coolant temp sensor on the driver side head toward the front of the engine bay, just behind-ish the alternator. Sometimes those go bad and inject a bunch of fuel because it mistakenly thinks it's super cold outside and causes a flood condition. You can check both of these during the no start situations using a scan tool that allows you to see your cranking RPM (to verify crank position sensor is working or not - it should show a few hundred rpm while cranking) and should allow you to see ECT (engine coolant temp - should NOT be -40, unless it actually is that cold wherever you are.
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