I could never get it to work. Everything hooked up correctly, scanner showed 0Hz and 0%. I'd still like to make it happen, but I think it's something HPtuners has to enable and I didn't get a...
Type: Posts; User: TimC
I could never get it to work. Everything hooked up correctly, scanner showed 0Hz and 0%. I'd still like to make it happen, but I think it's something HPtuners has to enable and I didn't get a...
Post the tune. There may be parameters that hptuners has not added yet. I ran into the same problem on my sts-v.
I know this post is old as shit, but I've seen a few questions about this table before so I'll put it out there for future reference. The IAT2 spark table is not directly related to the measured...
Car is a 2007 STS-V. I upgraded the fuel pump and will install larger injectors and the flex fuel sensor. I am going through the tune now and there is no PE (power enrich for future searchers)...
Thank you for that explanation! Computer controls are great when you know what they actually do.
Thanks for posting the answer. This will probably help someone in your position in the future.
This is common on the STS-V as well. I see variations up to 10 percentage points all the time. It happens mainly cruising. Under WOT the variation in narrow bands is 0-15 mV.
Simple. More air goes around the sensor when you have a bigger tube.
Too much pressure is not going to hurt the clutch, slippage does. You can play with it if you want but I wouldn't waste the time. Mine's been fine like this for over a year, 15,000 miles.
Foot on brake is a must. Verified today on an 06 STS-V Had parking brake set but did not try it without. Did not work without foot on brake pedal.
What was your boost with the stock pulley?
D3's STS-V pulley is only 10% overdrive and I'd assume the XLR-V pulley is the same. I see 13psi with my 10% overdrive upper pulley on my STS-V with stock exhaust.
Probably mechanical. What was boost before the pulley?
You're going to have to tune that by trial and error. Just creep up on it.
Manual shifting near red line (or any other time) sucks. Tune the safety shift points in manual mode to happen near your max RPM and be done with it.
Post a log of the problem as well as a good shift and then post your tune.
I've never messed with it. Try it and see what happens. Then report back so we can all learn.
You don't have to do anything. Mine's a 2001 lq4 computer. You'll want a speed sensor though. Dakota Digital makes one that screws on to the speedo cable outlet. The speedo cable screws to it so...
Tried that, doesn't work. The TCM just lowers TCC pressure till it sees slip, then raises it a little, then lowers it back down till it slips again. You have to set the offset to the minimum value...
I'm doing that in my Corvette but I didn't do anything special to the tune.
I run my car from 2900 to 7000 rpm in 3rd gear. About 40-110mph. Lower gears tend to spin the tires and they go by too quick. 3rd is perfect except for the excessive speed.
Why did you put an apostrophe in "transmissions?"
Why does that tune only show desired shift times for min power downshifts? Am I missing something?
Shift feel on my car changes and gets less consistent when I don't flash it for a couple weeks. I wonder if anyone else has this problem and if they cured it by turning the adaptive learning off.
What did yours do? I changed those tables in mine and didn't notice any shifting difference. Only that it doesn't command negative timing during shifts anymore. I set the tqmgt floor to 4 degrees.