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I just installed my wotbox last night on my Sky Redline and it works great!!!
my question is this, Is there anything that i should modify in the tune to make this work great or its great out of the box.
Mods
straight pipe exhaust, E47, 24PSI Tune, MAF relocate.
Since its a true anti-lag ignition cut, I am going to retard timing (start with -5* in those cells) in the very low load areas around what you have launch control setup. i.e 2500rpm LC, then retartd timing from 0rpm to 3000rpm in low load areas. You should easily build 10+psi off the line. ***ONLY use it for track, not daily driving.
i tried that with my setup and it seems that when i was daily driving it cut timing while accelerating.. i was going to try to do what the camaro guys are doing and setup a switched resister on the IAT to cut timing during launch control to see if that worksQuote:
Originally Posted by wgr73
you dont need the switch projectlnf.....its factory equipment and its mounted on your clutch pedal....hint hint
clutch depressed = resistor active with timing cut
clutch out = full powwaaarrr!!!
so with the clutch pressed in my motor will pull timing to two step? i havent seen it pull any timing i just see it cut sparkQuote:
Originally Posted by cobaltssoverbooster
use your clutch switch to run the resistor setup you wish to install on your iat sensor. i use a nitrous activation switch mounted to the clutch pedal unit in sc cars to do the same mod.
ahhh i see so just wire the resister in the clutch switch to the iat and it will pull timing everytime i go full press on the clutch.. now what about when im runing normally.. how is the computer going to get the signal from the iat in a normal operation and then when i press the clutch down how is the computer going to get the modified signal?Quote:
Originally Posted by cobaltssoverbooster
the best way is to set it up on a relay. buy a nitrous activation switch and mount it so it activates your system when the clutch is all the way down.
(make sure its a normally open switch) run a power wire to the new switch on one of the takeoff prongs. on the other takeoff prong run a wire to one of the coil prongs on a relay. the other coil prong gets run to a vehicle ground to complete that circuit. now when you press the clutch the relay will trigger.
now the harder part: find out which wire is the signal wire from the iat sensor and cut a small section of insulation off in one spot. dont cut the wire... now solder a piece of wire to that spot and run it to the normally open tab on the relay. on the other side of the switch install a wire with your resistor in it. then cut another section of insulation off and solder the leg onto that. when the relay gets triggered it will add the resistor to the signal wire changing the iat voltage some. when the relay is open the signal just runs the normal path of the factory wiring harness. if you cut the wires and wire them to the relay then when the relay is switching the signal to the ecu will drop as it jumps posts and cause a iat sensor malfunction code.
Check out my preschool wiring diagram
perfect! now how much timing can we pull with that setup? like how much timing can the computer pull?Quote:
Originally Posted by cobaltssoverbooster
+/- 95* timing from whatever the base table is set to
id like to see this in action.
as soon as the old slobalt is running again i will be doing this right now im waiting on my sleeve and im ready to put her back together!Quote:
Originally Posted by |V3nom|
will doing this mess with the idle?Quote:
Originally Posted by wgr73
not unless you are in the affected rpm areas. the tune can be worked to modify iat values by rpm and temp so at idle it will be ok but once you rev it up and hit the affected rpm range then bam ignition switches to slightly negative and pressure builds.
i will not that unless you have caliper conversions to allow fitment of large sidewall drag radials this mod will end up being a tire roasting mod. on the DI Ecotec motors the trq down low is so great even the solstice and sky's destroy tires without the boost build.
yeah youre right about the tire roasting. i have the wot box also and a launch at 3k, like 2psi+, it just spins. even at 2k, the lowest setting, 1-2psi, it still spins but it wheel hops more. definitely need sticky tires to benefit from this. otherwise youll have to play with the pedals which pretty much takes away the benefit and whole idea of using the 2step. it is fun and easy way to spin the tires. :)
I disabled this wotbox till I get my 6 puck in. But cbssob the resistor has to go parallel with the iat not inline