I plan I buying this http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/357 But before I do, is there config files and cal. details for seting this up wiht Hp tuner non PRO using the a/c line input, on a 2006 SSR E40, or even just any E40 PCM?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to buy a wide band that no one has tried using this method, I not very "techy" and don't want to write som formula to log it properly via the a/c input.
I've got a buddy (PM "5th Gen SS") using it in a 2011 Camaro 2SS. Works nicely, and because the computer thinks the A/C pressure is through the roof, the fans stay on while the AFX is hooked up (added benefit, if you ask me).
Purchased it hope it gets here soon!Quote:
Originally Posted by C6Z_sd
This may help.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-s...hp-tuners.html
Thanks that sure does!Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000C-5
Ok thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by C6Z_sd
Pretty sure you've seen this but just in case: http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9448
OK I got my sensor going.. to work on installing it over the next couple of days. So I have been getting a intermittent Lean code on bank 2, I was told to install the sensor on bank 1 as it is the leanest (cylender 7) , but wiht that error code should I mount it in bank 2? or Bank 1.
Also can I cut the wires then re-solder them on the harness they are way to long, and I also would like not to drill a 1.5" whole??? To fit the connector through the firewall. I'd like to cut it pull the wires through then shorten and reconnect them.
How ever in the manual it says not to modify the wiring harness?
OK got it installed on bank 1 and logging with HP tuners.
Wirring
I wired the red wire from the module to ignition switched 12 volts positive 7.5 amp fuse.
I cut the small ring terminal off the ground wires from the controller and installed them into a larger eyelet, then I lengthened the brown wire from the analog output wire from the controller, and installed a large ring terminal on it. I then ran both ring terminals to a unused engine ground. I ran the yellow analog output wire to my a/c pressure switch, and connected it to the red/black wire. I don't have a/c so no need to worry about unplugging it.
setup and configuration
My sensor range is 9-16 AFR.
So my min is 9 , my range is 7 my output volts are 5 volts at 16 AFR. So;
volts / (5/7) + 9= AFR
(0.714285714)+9= AFR
I am using the A/C pressure sensor (red/black wire) so my PID is;
([PID.7101]/.714285714)+9
Using HP tuners scanner under tables;
Insert;
user defined;
configure user defined;
name: Air Fuel Ratio
abv. AFR
sensor type: air fuel ratio
setting :1
Function: ([PID.7101]/.714285714)+9
up arrow to save, then I added the air fuel ratio, and a/c pressure vs. volts to my main table, and saved it all.
I then turn the ignition on, and started logging I noticed I had a ground offset;
NGK AFR read 16.00
Hp tuners read 15.89 and 4.92V
So I have a error of 0.11 AFR
I then changed my Pid from ([PID.7101]/.714285714)+9 to ([PID.7101]/.714285714)+9.11
Then re-logged they now read
NGK AFR 16
Hp tunners AFR 16
Is this all setup right seems to work?? I am wondering if I can leave it always connected I'd like to and perminatley mount the controller?? The manual says it is only temporary??
That all sounds spot on to me. :cheers: I'm not sure why it could not be used that way permenantly.
Ok cool thanks, they might say that in the instructions in-case you are using it with a carb setup?Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
Basically they said, that using it long term or for lots of tuning will shorten the O2 sensors life.. which is about $80.00 on it's own.
I put on about 15,000 kms a year, if it lasts 5 or more years I'll be happy! I'd love to build it into my center console, and since I don't have a/c I don't need a switch it is there so I can easily log with HP.
Thanks for all your help on this subject, and the suggestion to get the NGK AFX. I did mount he sensor nice and high in the exhaust like you said to.
I think I finally figured out how to use it to log MAF vs fuel ratio error for MAF tunning.
How long do I need to drive, and what kind of terrain, drive it hard easy ? To get the best results?
I see what you mean now. I have my sensor permemantly installed and while I just changed wide band controllers and sensors, it was not due to the sensor not erading correctly. The one I took out was fine and had >10k miles on it. As long as it is powered on when the motor is running it is OK. If you run the motor without power to the sensor it will bonk.
You need a combination of regular driving and WOT to redline (while watching the AFR to make sure you don't go lean). You should be able to gather enough data in a short, ~10-15 minute session.
Ok Thanks I will try that, do I need to go to reline when logging the maf lo table? seems to stop recording change in cels after about 4000 rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
There is not reason to tune the MAF lo and MAF hi separately. If you're in open loop and tuning with AFR error you can tune both tables end to end at the same time.
Oh ok, that would be better, I downloaded the histos from the LS2 histograms and configs . I will try and modify it to read both high and lo
They will still be two separate histos.
Can you run more then one Histo at a time?Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
My VE table is way off from stock on average my cells are at least more then -15% . I did copy paste special and were I was driving/logging is getting better, just worried about some of the cells I didn't get cell counts on. Can I take 15% out of the entire table to start with then work on getting the cells I can log up to 50 counts on, dialed right it?
How would I take out -15% across the entire table? I tried high lighting the table in the box I typed -15% and then clicked the X button it seemed to only do something to the first cell, not the whole table?
Thanks again for all your help, I am gradually starting to get it now :doh:, been a slow progress, and thanks to you I am finally learning some things!
Been really happy with the NGK AFK you recommended, there was so many different choices!
All the histos defined in your config are collecting data while you're scanning. Actually the PIDs defined in your table are being collected, the histos are just showing a useful representation of the data. So I'm saying, drive around, normal and WOT, and then look at the MAF Lo AFR error and MAF Hi AFR Error and copy and paste special, multiply by percent into the low and high MAF tables in the tune. Hand smooth if needed.
For MAF and VE, If you are seeing a trend, like most cells need to come down ~15% then you can do like you said, highlight the whole table and change it all. What you need to do though is put .85 in the box and hit the "X". To add 15% you would put 1.15 in the box and hit "X".
OK perfect, that makes good sense, so if I wanted to take out 35 % I would x .75.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
Does weather have effect on tuning (I am almost sure it does) and what can be done about it? Or how to compensate for it?
Yesterday was (rainy and humid), got most of my VE trims within + or - 2.
Went logging again today sunny and dry, now I am out by + or - 6. I scene 15.35, 15.75 a couple of times on my wide-band, don't like running that lean, I don't want to put a hole in a piston!
You need a litte help with your math. If you wanted to take out 35% you would multiply by .65. :)
I have not had any problems with my SD tune changing from season to season. I think when you get it end to end tuned it will be consistent.