ls 5.3 swap cant seem to get it right...

ok I have a 98 tahoe. I swapped in a 5.3LS engine from a 2002 silverado. ECU is from a 2001. the shop i bought it from put the base tune in it. i couldnt get it running right with little diagnostic tools available. I had a few DTCs and i finally got all of them worked out. Bought hp tuners to dig deeper and i used the VCM scanner to help me identify some of the problems. I found a bad signal wire on one of my injectors and that fixed a misfire and injector DTC. no dtcs now other than generator. seems to idle fine and runs ok but it feels weak. and the other day i took it out for about 15 minutes and when i pulled in the driveway i noticed my IAT was really high and my map sensor too. I tried to access the tune but it was locked. so i called the tuner and told him and he said he would remove it.. i drove it there and he removed it. now i get home and it says the ecm is a 2001 but i swore when it was locked it was a 99. i remember his tune had decently stiff shifts and i havent driven it yet since he unlocked it to verify but im thinking when he "unlocked" it he put a stock tune in it instead of keeping the tune he originally put in it. either way.... i wanted to see if you guys could help me out...

1. Is this a baseline "stock" tune? or does it look like a little more agressive tune.. like he told me he installed.

2. do you see anything about it that might cause running issues?

truck is a 98 tahoe 2dr. 4wd.
98 4l60e
pacesetter long tubes.
no rear cats.
no rear 02s
intake
stock fuel system.
no egr
no A.I.R.
no evap.
no ac (sucks i know)

here is my tune

Attachment 47212

ok so i checked and it was originally a 2001 tune...

Do you have a log for the vehicle? If not, go log and post it up here. I noticed that your timing tables seem to be stock 5.3L but your PE ramp in and RPM aren't stock. Here's a cool thing to do. Go to the tune repository here: https://www.hptuners.com/customers/tune.php Do a search for 2001 5.3L, find a stock tune and open the file, but do NOT license it. Then, along the top toolbar choose "Compare," or look for the folder with a red dot near the upper left, then open the tune from your truck. The items that are different will be highlighted in green, and you can swap views between the two tunes using the buttons that look like white squares with colored dots near the Compare button.

I don't think it is a terribly aggressive tune, and if I were the guy I would have probably done the same.

thanks man i did that...a few things jump out at me... Ill have to look it up again with my vin but i think my gearing is 3.73 . In my tune he has the gearing at 3.42 can I just change that field to 3.73 or are there other values that need to be changed as well?

What problems are you having? Regarding the gearing, yes just change the gear and also put in your tire height for GP and hit commit.

Dont expect much help if you dont say what issues you are having, codes set ect logs and a tune file would be considered minimums as well.

here is a log from a drive i did today. i dont have pro so i cant do logs through vcm scanner.. so i recorded my screen. any idea why my LTFTs are so high and my advance seems high too at times..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JNnFDbb-uE

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leamangriffin

here is a log from a drive i did today. i dont have pro so i cant do logs through vcm scanner.. so i recorded my screen.

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You can absolutely do scans without PRO. It uploads the same way as a tune does. It would be easier for us without watching a video, but don't worry about the timing. You didn't get any KR (knock retard) so I wouldn't worry. Fuel trims are there to keep the engine at whatever AFR the computer is commanding, I.E. 14.7ish:1. Positive means essentially you need to add airflow in that particular Hz of your maf or that area of your VE, whichever you decide to run. To do it properly, you need a wideband, which you can wire into HPT standard using the EGR or AC pressure lines so it will read AFR directly on your scanner. This way you can reset your fuel trims and if you want, like most people seem to do(myself included) you can disable LTFT entirely. Resettin your fuel trims and disabling LTFT is part of proper MAF and VE tuning anyway.

ok thanks for all of the info.. when you say wire it in to the egr signal you are referring to the signal wire into the ecm right? and then i would just look at the egr values in the scanner? i will do another drive tomorrow and figure out how to log it. also you need my config file to view it properly correct?
sorry to bother with so many questions i just want to make sure I fully follow you before i mess with anything.
judging by my tune do you think i have room to add a few percent to the ve table in that area where im registering the LTFTs? also is there a good tutorial on proper maf and ve tuning that you could point me towards? I have searched and found many and I really dont want to just assume they are correct.

Thank you again for all of the help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by leamangriffin

ok thanks for all of the info.. when you say wire it in to the egr signal you are referring to the signal wire into the ecm right? and then i would just look at the egr values in the scanner? i will do another drive tomorrow and figure out how to log it. also you need my config file to view it properly correct?
sorry to bother with so many questions i just want to make sure I fully follow you before i mess with anything.
judging by my tune do you think i have room to add a few percent to the ve table in that area where im registering the LTFTs? also is there a good tutorial on proper maf and ve tuning that you could point me towards? I have searched and found many and I really dont want to just assume they are correct.
Thank you again for all of the help.

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http://www.redlineforums.com/forums/...ve-tuning.html

This is where I learned a lot from. You'll want to reset the fuel trims in the VCM Scanner before changing anything. Also yes you simply wire the wideband output to the EGR or AC lines, then make a custom PID to view it as AFR. If you have an AEM wideband unplug the O2 sensor and it will give a solid AFR so you can find the right offset, as explained here: http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...ressure-Switch

thank you