CAM Idle Nightmare

Looking for help from the experts, seriously frustrated with my car. I've been to two different local dyno tuners and paid a mail order HP Tuner and my car still idles like crap. Every time I come to a stop or slow down on an onramp, car dies.

The last tuner I was at over the weekend said the issue is my cam, not enough vacuum, but I know other guys are running the exact same setup without issue. The car is a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V, LS6 with the following mods. Cam and head were matched and recommended by Texas Speed.

CAM TEXAS SPEED TORQUER V3 231/234 .643/598 111 LSA
CYLINDER HEADS TEXAS SPEED PRC STAGE 2.5 LS6 CNC 2.02" INTAKE VALVES, 1.57" EXHAUST, DUAL SPRING
LS2 Throttle Body
FAST 102 Intake Manifold
Pacesetter Headers
Magnaflow 2.5" exhaust

Attached are my current tune and latest log files as well as the stock file. I have like 7 different tunes, none of them work but I'm happy to share anything. Any feedback on the idle issue would be really appreciated!! :pray:
Attachment 47868
Attachment 47869
Attachment 47870
Attachment 47871

Here was the tune done at the Dyno Shop along with the log from the dyno pulls and dyno graph. With this tune, car died twice at stop lights on the way home and the minute you touch the throttle car bogs and dies, runs great at WOT.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7dab8931.jpg

Attachment 47872

Attachment 47873

Attachment 47874

MAF is failed in the tune but the car is not on open loop because DTC PO101,PO102 & PO103 not on 2-No MIL Light. The tune is So bad, I would compare it with the stock file and start all over. Also return The Stock Adaptive Idle Airflow and underspeed spark back to stock.

First I would fix the ECT sensor, as it's at -40. Then the idle rpm should be at least 950 with that cam. What injectors do you have? As the IFR table has been changed. Do you have a light weight flywheel or clutch? I would return the adaptive idle airflow fields to stock. You can also set up the rolling idle tables to give more idle air when you push the clutch in.

And I would never spec a cam with such a tight LSA (10.5* valve overlap) on a manual trans vehicle. As it totally ruins the drive-ability. I removed a 234/242/.600/.610 114 10* overlap cam from my 418 ZO6 last year and installed a 234/242/.600/.615 117+2 (4* overlap) cam. The car now drives 10x better, still has stupid bottom end power and has more mid range to top end power due to the earlier exhaust valve opening. Plus no more clutch in stall and no more light throttle/low rpm surge/buck/fishbite. I like driving my car again.

Russ Kemp

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Russ K

First I would fix the ECT sensor, as it's at -40. Then the idle rpm should be at least 950 with that cam. What injectors do you have? As the IFR table has been changed. Do you have a light weight flywheel or clutch? I would return the adaptive idle airflow fields to stock. You can also set up the rolling idle tables to give more idle air when you push the clutch in.

And I would never spec a cam with such a tight LSA (10.5* valve overlap) on a manual trans vehicle. As it totally ruins the drive-ability. I removed a 234/242/.600/.610 114 10* overlap cam from my 418 ZO6 last year and installed a 234/242/.600/.615 117+2 (4* overlap) cam. The car now drives 10x better, still has stupid bottom end power and has more mid range to top end power due to the earlier exhaust valve opening. Plus no more clutch in stall and no more light throttle/low rpm surge/buck/fishbite. I like driving my car again.

Russ Kemp

---

What was the comparison in power production between the old cam and new cam? Dyno or track time wise?

Yeah, for a street car that seems a bit much. We've had a lot of tuning headaches with an autox only LS1 (5.7L) racecar:

227/234 .614”/.612” 110LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
Comp LSL/LXL lobes

It idles at 1000, has a 7.25", 110 tooth flywheel. Couldn't imagine driving it on the street. Will post some more specifics when I have a chance to look at his tune, but we had the opposite issue. Had massive "cruise control" at zero throttle. Turned out the idle airflow numbers were way too high. It looks like yours are too.

You may also want to add the IAC to your logs so we can see where it is. This may be contributing to the stalling.

Jason

Sounds like you have visited some of the same tuners I have, and hence why I bought HPT, and am now in here. I am still learning, and will be paying attention to this one.

Sorry for delayed response on this, got married and honeymoon last several weeks. Lots of great feedback on here, thank you so much!! Does anybody have a mail tune recommendation? I really just need to get this car driveable then can work on fine tuning.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by C5 2000

MAF is failed in the tune but the car is not on open loop because DTC PO101,PO102 & PO103 not on 2-No MIL Light. The tune is So bad, I would compare it with the stock file and start all over. Also return The Stock Adaptive Idle Airflow and underspeed spark back to stock.

---

I asked the tuner about the failed MAF and he didn't even respond to it, I figured because it was on speed density that I could ignore it. I'll get that fixed first then start over again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Russ K

First I would fix the ECT sensor, as it's at -40. Then the idle rpm should be at least 950 with that cam. What injectors do you have? As the IFR table has been changed. Do you have a light weight flywheel or clutch? I would return the adaptive idle airflow fields to stock. You can also set up the rolling idle tables to give more idle air when you push the clutch in.

And I would never spec a cam with such a tight LSA (10.5* valve overlap) on a manual trans vehicle. As it totally ruins the drive-ability. I removed a 234/242/.600/.610 114 10* overlap cam from my 418 ZO6 last year and installed a 234/242/.600/.615 117+2 (4* overlap) cam. The car now drives 10x better, still has stupid bottom end power and has more mid range to top end power due to the earlier exhaust valve opening. Plus no more clutch in stall and no more light throttle/low rpm surge/buck/fishbite. I like driving my car again.

Russ Kemp

---

I guess I'm learning the hard way, don't blindly trust a speed shop to spec a cam! I'll check the ECT sensor, totally missed that. I have FAST 36 lb injectors and I have an 18 lb aluminum flywheel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JasonS5555

Yeah, for a street car that seems a bit much. We've had a lot of tuning headaches with an autox only LS1 (5.7L) racecar:

227/234 .614”/.612” 110LSA +2 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
Comp LSL/LXL lobes

It idles at 1000, has a 7.25", 110 tooth flywheel. Couldn't imagine driving it on the street. Will post some more specifics when I have a chance to look at his tune, but we had the opposite issue. Had massive "cruise control" at zero throttle. Turned out the idle airflow numbers were way too high. It looks like yours are too.

You may also want to add the IAC to your logs so we can see where it is. This may be contributing to the stalling.

Jason

---

Thanks for the info, I'll take a look at the idle airflow numbers and add IAC to the logs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by etcts-v

I guess I'm learning the hard way, don't blindly trust a speed shop to spec a cam! I'll check the ECT sensor, totally missed that. I have FAST 36 lb injectors and I have an 18 lb aluminum flywheel.

---

I was also talked in to an Fidanza aluminum flywheel. That really causes a cam'd engine to surge/stall, I installed the stock flywheel after 2 months. Another lesson learned, light weight flywheels/clutches are for race cars only. Not worth all the down sides for an extra 5 or 10 hp on a Dyno Jet.

Russ Kemp

I would think a lightweight flywheel would be a huge no-no on the heavy CTS-V in the first place.

Hope you get things dialed in. Listen to Russ.

Ron