LNF boost issue

Hello HPTuners forum!

I'm Joe, and I am really hoping some of you might be able to help me out with some tuning problems I have been experiencing lately. I have been self tuning for the last couple of years, and have learned a lot thanks to a lot of you here on the forum. Never thought I would have to really ask many questions, but recently I have had some issues with how my car has been running. My part throttle and WOT boost output has been all over the place. I have attached a log file, and tune from my car.

Any and all input and help would be very appreciated!

Power Mod List:
ZZP ZFR 6758 w/ High Boost Waste Gate Canister (http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-t...anister-2.html)
Hahn CoolRam Intake
Injen Upper IC pipe
MPx Intercooler
MPx Catless Turbo Back Exhaust
Forge BPV (can't remember which spring I put in it)

http://s22.postimg.org/7tx7vrvq5/cob...creen_shot.jpg

Attachment 48742Attachment 48743

Have you checked your MAF and boost sensors to make sure their connections are clean and tight? Check the preload on your wastegate actuator too. I run 4mm of preload on my WR3 setup and some boost problems are what made me check the preload.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimmyS

Have you checked your MAF and boost sensors to make sure their connections are clean and tight? Check the preload on your wastegate actuator too. I run 4mm of preload on my WR3 setup and some boost problems are what made me check the preload.

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Hey JummyS thank for the reply. I checked all the connections, and vacuum lines thinking something came loose. I found nothing wrong with any thing during that inspection. What is the appropriate way to measure the preload of the WG? When my WG died I got the high boost one by mistake (thanks ZZP for not telling me the medium WG canister was the standard), and during install I just made sure it had the same amount of preload compared to the dead medium boost WG canister.

You'll need to loosen the 2 (10mm) nuts on the rod of the actuator. Use 2 10mm wrenches so that the actuator rod doesn't turn when you loosen the nuts. Hold the waste gate on the turbine housing closed. Tighten the outer nut up to this closed point and then tighten it 3 full turns from there which will give you 3mm of preload. Tighten the inner nut up and make sure you use a wrench on both nuts to keep the rod from turning. If you search EFR waste gate actuator preload, you'll find a few good reads on adjusting it.

I run the high boost actuator as well and run 4mm of preload. My WR3 came with the 179284 high boost actuator and just recently I had lazy boost response and was maxing out at 24psi where I typically run 27psi. I found a small boost leak that I thought was the problem but didn't fix it and tried everything I could think of before finally adjusting the preload. Not only did it fix my problem but I noticed a much quicker spool up and had to readjust my waste gate duty cycle down quite a bit. I had run it for 9 months with less than adequate preload and the difference it made by adjusting it was substantial.

Not saying this is your problem the picture of your log doesn't look good but it's worth checking.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimmyS

You'll need to loosen the 2 (10mm) nuts on the rod of the actuator. Use 2 10mm wrenches so that the actuator rod doesn't turn when you loosen the nuts. Hold the waste gate on the turbine housing closed. Tighten the outer nut up to this closed point and then tighten it 3 full turns from there which will give you 3mm of preload. Tighten the inner nut up and make sure you use a wrench on both nuts to keep the rod from turning. If you search EFR waste gate actuator preload, you'll find a few good reads on adjusting it.

I run the high boost actuator as well and run 4mm of preload. My WR3 came with the 179284 high boost actuator and just recently I had lazy boost response and was maxing out at 24psi where I typically run 27psi. I found a small boost leak that I thought was the problem but didn't fix it and tried everything I could think of before finally adjusting the preload. Not only did it fix my problem but I noticed a much quicker spool up and had to readjust my waste gate duty cycle down quite a bit. I had run it for 9 months with less than adequate preload and the difference it made by adjusting it was substantial.

Not saying this is your problem the picture of your log doesn't look good but it's worth checking.

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Getting to the wastegate actuator is gonna be fuuuuun. I hate taking off the o2 housing on these cars. lol

I'm at a complete lose, and the WG, BPV (which I hear going nuts when said event I provided a screenshot of happens), Vacuum Lines and Sensors appear to be the most likely candidates right now.

I know there are many different methods to tuning but how long have you been running the zeroed out waste gate duty cycle? Why would you run it like that? Just curious as it would appear that you are relying on the waste gate actuator to control your boost....

Your ETC lags way behind your pedal as well. Not sure if this is because you're not requesting much torque vs. rpm but it shouldn't trail the pedal like that. Mine is typically 1 second behind a full throttle push.

I have to believe that your problem is due to the low torque vs. rpm that you are requesting under torque management (rpm vs. gear) and the zeroed out waste gate duty cycle table. Looking through your log shows that the rpm this is happening at you are requesting between 50 to 60% torque so your ETC never reaches 100% even when you have the pedal to the floor. You're telling the ECM that you only want 50-60% torque so it tells the ETC to stay partially closed so it reaches the torque and then limits it by decreasing the boost and the load.

Your other torque tables are at 100% so if I were you, I would raise the torque vs. rpm vs. gear to 100 and adjust down only if you have too much wheelspin. With the waste gate duty cycle zeroed out like you have it, you are relying on the wastegate actuator to control your boost and since you have the high boost canister, you are going to start opening the wastegate somewhere around 17-19psi depending on how your preload is set up. I would recommend starting with a stock waste gate duty cycle table and modify it to fit your boost needs.

With the ZFR turbo along with your other modifications, your car should be pretty fast but your tune really needs some attention.