Ya, to be honest, changing the way the limiter is applied felt exactly the same as before. I swear I have ETC set to disable but maybe there's more to it than that.
Is it safe to assume that it should sound like a regular 2 step when it's functioning correctly? Like...vroooom pop pop pop pop stutter pop pop pop BOOM GO
And you know something. I just remembered--I log the ETC PID instead of the throttle blade(or whatever one shows max of 88%). In the log, I've been seeing 99% ETC during the NLS testing but I wonder if logging the regular 88% sensor would show the computer shutting it. . .
If the blade is closing, it should show in the logs at less than 88% TPS, ETC should show 100% when the blade is fully opened.
Did you change the switchover delay with respect to how you had them before ? it was 2 before, it shoud be higher than that.
How about the accel filter coefficient ?
Post the new tune to see if we can spot the issue.
So looking at the tune. I did everything G8 said but it looksl ike the switchover delay is 0 for neutral. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
Tune attached
I never touched the accel filter coefficient. What's that do?
Oh and I changed the limiter to 6500 for track use, but it was 4800 from before.
Changing the switch delay to 20 on park and neutral seems to be the trick. I tried it out tonight and it holds the desired rpm perfectly.
Question- I see the computer is retarding timing to -13* to keep the desired rpm. That seems...dangerous like it could break something. Is that anything I should be worried about?
I fubarred my post. I told you're set the switchover for all six gears. It needs to be done to the P/N as well. Oops.
Anyways, the timing is fine, that's where your fireballs virtually come from besides exhaust heat.
Also, no, the ECM can only reduce timing, not kill it completely. Therefore no pop pop boom etc. Just a scary change in the exhaust tone.
Enjoy!
So aftermarket 2 steps are able to remove all timing and thats what makes the different sound?
Thanks for all the tips G8. I appreciate your chiming in. I didn't do any WOT NLS testing last night, but I did try the limiter and it works perfectly.
Thanks again
Exactly. A 2/step can inhibit total spark control when active.Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinjor
The ECM still is required to make the coil fire once every 4 cycles per cylinder regardless of overall advance.
Your welcome, but don't just thank me, there are other people in this thread much more knowledgable than myself and corrected my errors in posts.
True-
Thanks everyone for the help. It's people like you that make this forum a great place for noobs like myself :D
Justin my experience with trying to flat shift results in hitting the rev limiter and the recovery from the rev limiter is slower that lifting and shifting...I lose .05 minimum if hit the rev limiter.
I'll be interested to see if this trick you are doing works at the track - will you do a flat shift and a normal lift shift and let's compare the slips and logs?
Now when it comes to blowing fireballs...that takes me back to high school. With a carb car its super easy. Drop to 2nd gear, shut off key, pump gas, turn key on. BOOM. The amount of boom and distance of fireball depends upon how many pumps.
If you do it one to many times you'll blow a muffler out, or worse a head gasket. Ask me how I know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5_Liter_Eater
Oh...and 6000 rpm launches are how we roll at PBIR. Here's 6800. :burnout:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUX3UNFl124
Will do Joe. I'm not big into the fireball thing so I won't be doing it much, if at all.
I will definitely be doing some testing with the NLS stuff to see if it saves time at the track. I can say this though--the 10.6 pass came with no lift shifting and that was before I had it tweaked like it is now. I'm excited to give it hell and see what happens.
To keep the blade from closeing on manual shifted cars you must go into the "switchover delay" and raise the P/N time to something like 5-20 seconds. Basically when you hit the clutch it goes to that table and switches over to ETC after that amount of time. So even if you have it set to disable this switchover is a override for ETC. I alway's set the entire switchover delay to 10 seconds on car's I know will be raced alot just for that reason.
Also to get the full effect you need to set the "cutoff RPM hyst." to something lower than stock. I set them somewhere between 1-25rpm to get that really quick studder.
If you shift the car fast enough you'll never drop RPM below 4K rpm even if the P/N limit is set at 4K rpm. You'll find out that with the settings setup correctly will allow for much quicker and easier shifts.
That sounds like exactly what was happening. I have the entire switchover delay set to 20 seconds right now and everything seems to be working perfectly. I haven't tried to NLS it yet, but the 2 step aspect works perfectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSxpwrdZ
Thanks for the info :D
What is the cutoff RPM hyst.? I don't have my tuning computer in front of me but I do remember seeing that table in the tune. I don't know if it has been modified.
I miss NLS from my Cobalt SS. I'm assuming that this could just as easily be applied to an E40 in a 2006 GTO as well?
Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by LSChris
Chris White has retro fitting the no lift shift into the computer, you might seek him out as he can prob get you changed over. I know he did it on his 2009 Z06.
What's his user name Sneaky?