What do the numbers over the settings represent? I am wanting to try to get to get the o2 settings dialed in a bit more but am not sure how these things correlate.
Attachment 144002
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What do the numbers over the settings represent? I am wanting to try to get to get the o2 settings dialed in a bit more but am not sure how these things correlate.
Attachment 144002
Its your airflow cell.
https://i.imgur.com/5bBSCXE.png
Thank you for that!!Quote:
Originally Posted by hjtrbo
Here Dude. Watch this Video. Its Cringers but it explains everything I believe you need to knowQuote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hjzI8wSItk&t=1541s
I'm in the middle of getting my EOIT/SOIT dialed in , but once I get that done, I will be diving into O2 sensor tuning as well and will be following this post too.
Thank you! I'll check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen Vos
You'll have to let us know how you make out.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
Do you feel you are having any drivability issues because of bad 02 readings?
I took a look at my tune and logs and I know I should drop the O2 crossover voltages as they are a touch high.
The car is running quite well and I'm not experiencing any drivability issues though so just wondering if its worth doing or not?
The car doesn't have any drivability issues, just an annoyance of mine. I've had this "buck" with a very light throttle, light load scenario. I have now gotten it to where it is very minute in those type of scenarios. Very acceptable but the quest to perfection is a struggle of mine which is why I try to experiment from time to time.
Ha Ha A bit of OCD huh? I'm in the same boat lolQuote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
What RPM are you seeing this "buck" at?
It's around 1500-1800rpm. Ive lowered the braf some today and seems to have helped. Going to keep at it until it drives the way i know it can. May eventually go SD since it has really smoothed things out with tuning. Until then, ill exhaust myself with the blended maf/ve tune. LOL
Easy to test if the buck is still there by commanding open loop. If it is look into the proportional and integral o2 under the O2 sensor tab.
A MAF with reversion will cause the exact same symptom. Again easy to test.. put it in SD and see if the problem goes away.
Thanks for the suggestions Alvin. As I was mentioning to Allen; putting it in SD really smooths it out. I may end up going SD and if so, ive heard Blindsquirrel mention a breakout harness before. I'm not familiar with those but think i have seen where you have said you sell them, and am wondering if it would be an absolute need and what exact purpose it serves when going SD only?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
You do not need a breakout harness to go into SD. Just tune your PI controller for your fuel swings...or at least post a log with a wideband so we can look to verify.
The break out would be if you physically remove the MAF. The Gen4 MAF has the IAT built in. The breakout allows you to plug into the MAF harness and remote mount a physically separate IAT to make the ECM happy.
Hey Cringer. Post #1 has a log attached. My initial thoughts were to adjust the PI controller which is why I made the post asking what the numbers represented. I've since put the car in SD and as mentioned before, it has really helped. Are you saying that if I decided to run SD indefinitely, then I can do so without the breakout? If I fail the MAF, doesn't that fail the IAT as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cringer
Sorry I missed the first page! I will take a look in a few minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
Correct, failing the MAF does not impact the IAT.
Going into SD has it's own pitfalls though. You will need to either apply the 2 Bar Custom HPT OS, or at least apply the "[ECM] 120 - Speed Density Air Mode Patch: OS Patch for Speed Density Air Calc Mode, not returning to normal" in the OS tab.
More reading here:
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...ittent-Stumble
And more info here:
https://youtu.be/cRxVVFGRL7A
After looking at the log I don't see anything that really jumps out. You can do a quick and dirty experiment and decrease the Proportional and increase the Integral to see what happens. What you need to do is note when then happens at the specific MAF g/s (then you can tie it back to the Airflow Mode profile number and edit those PI and values).Quote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
Appreciate the look. I am running the 2bar OS. I know its not going to have OE street manners, but when I put it in SD, its pretty close. Greg has helped tremendously with getting it to get it where it is now and offering suggestions. I was dead set on keeping the MAF but SD seem like it will allow my OCD to be satisfied. This is a beautiful car and i just think that the performance should match the looks or be as close as possible. I'll take a look at those links you posted when time permits. Thanks again for taking a look.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cringer
There is no driveablity trade offs with SD. Almost all cars with a decent sized cam drive better. Many OEM manufactures are strictly SD.
Dodge, honda. There could be others.
You can fail the MAF and the IAT will work the same.
This is what i was not 100% on. Looks like SD is the option for me. Thank you for clearing this up Alvin!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvin
How did you initially set BRAF? I tried many different ways that were suggested to me and ended up using the Gen 4 idle guide on here by big mike and was able to dial my BRAF spot on. It starts up now with no flares or surging and I have no surges whatsoever while driving . I do have that pesky issue you have as well with the pedal/idle mode changing while on the pedal a wee bit. I am really going to try and stay MAF/SD tune here but some of these issue's can drive a guy nutty lolQuote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
I tried big mikes method but i must have missed a step (a couple of times) and could not make things work for me. I actually had someone help with the tune and with as much experience they have, they said the same thing i was thinking. My engine just seems to want lower BRAF than other engines. Idk why, they dk why but when i first saw what was happening, i noticed that it correlated with my under/over spark tables. I'd tweak BRAF based on what gear vs rpm the timing pull happened. Might be helpful to log "Current Gear" or whatever its called so that you can review it in the log. Where my car is a swap vehicle, my ecm doesnt know what gear im in, so it's a drive and mentally note type thing lol.
i think BRAF is more linked to TB area then g/s, i had to scale airflow in my tune because of injectors and the g/s for idle was bout half what it should be yet i had to increase the BRAF to the values it would be if not scaled, in either situation scaled or not my idle TB percentage stays the same so i know it must be correct and the adaptive were hovering around idle like normal, so i say dont worry about the table values just set it to suit the engine as u will know if its too high/low just looking at what the adaptives
I had a tough time keeping the engine running with big mikes guide, however once I got the BRAF closer I could see the Target RPM error getting closer and just kept playing with it until I had min RPM error and now the car works flawlessly with regards to startup and idle recovery.Quote:
Originally Posted by LS ROB
Stupid question. My car is a manual 6 speed. I wasn't able to successfully log current gear. I just assumed that you cant with a manual?
Maybe I'm dead wrong here?
Sorry. It's listed in my scanner as "Trans Current Gear."Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen Vos