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Just for kicks, I looked at the reviews for the seller linked and above and while the percentage of failures is fairly low, still more failures than I would want to deal with anyway. And who knows what the long term reliability will be. Looks even more like counterfeit injectors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bum454ss
12613412 - 50lb L96 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/27442490602...mis&media=COPY)
Thes are blind squirrel link
After speaking on the phone with the folks at the fuel injector clinic, I pulled the trigger on these. I will update the tune and re-post.
Thanks for the guidance. Drinking from a fire hose right now.
https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/IS304-0365H
Do you need an auto trans file or a manual? 4L60 or 80?
I’m running a 4l60e till it breaks. By then I should have the next one sitting ready to go in.
Use this file, do a write entire without changing anything in it. That's your good OE base file. Don't doink it up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bum454ss
The only one I didn't look at, I just checked the first 3.Quote:
Originally Posted by tana99ss
Fresh upload as of this morning. It was definitely the crappy power supply on the bench harness as the truck is not quite ready for me to mount the ECM in the place where I need it but hopefully, it will be by this afternoon. Now I can compare this to the original truck specifics, make a couple of changes and be ready to start this pig when the injectors get here Friday.
Thank you for the help getting to this point!
I have taken what I was given and compared the original truck tune from the junkyard made a few changes concerning gears, Vats, limited the speedo to 80 miles an hour so she doesn't get out of hand, and fuel system capacity.
I went ahead and added the Fuel/General/Offset data from the fuel injector clinic, I also changed the gear ratios to the correct truck ratios and changed the torque converter TCC duty cycle to match what came with the truck.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
? I have an 04 Tahoe with the truck Norris cam. All cam everything else is stock. I had it tuned because on start up it would only idle once put into gear it would stall.. now that it is tuned (1st time) codes for running lean both banks along with maf code. Check engine light was always on unless I was high in altitude ( in the mountains ) then check engine light would turn off and all monitors where set? now after the 2nd tune I have 2 monitors that won?t set. And have pending codes for running lean both banks Check engine light turns on occasionally but is usually off. It is DBW? is there any tune that can be done so I can get my monitors to set (cat & evap).. if not then I?ll have to put stock cam back in and return computer back to stock so I can smog it.. ( CA)
I haven’t a clue. Sounds like you should start a new thread.
Don't mean to be a jerk, but you should start your own thread about this. Post the vehicle specs, your tune file and a data log to go with it. You'll get some help from someone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lm7Rick
Question… The signal from the ECM to the fuel pump does not ground. It is 12v constant. I can jump 12 V to the prime spot next to the relay and the pump primes to good pressure at 58 psi. So in that case.. I have verified that the fuel pump relay is pinned correctly. As an aside, I cannot read the tune in the vehicle. It is stopping at about 44% every time and giving me I failed message that says… controller unlocker X37.. required time delay not expired. I have to go to work, but I thought I’d see if you had any thoughts? I can put it back on the bench harness tonight and read it. But I haven’t changed anything since I attached the above tune and I think I got the vets correct. Thanks in advance.
Try pulling the radio and radio amp fuses and read again. It's very common on the 03-07 Classic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bum454ss
Wanted to update as it's been a few months since I made any real progress. Using the startup tune that was given to me I finally have it idling. This is with 19 quarter turns on the set screw at the throttle body. Basically bottomed it out to give it more air and then backed it off two turns to keep it idling but I definitely do not feel that that's correct.
Log D is with 19 turns on the screw
Attachment 145740Attachment 145741Attachment 145742Attachment 145743
IAT is reading -38 which means it is likely unplugged.
Use the attached channel config and do another idle log. You weren't logging enough of channel to diagnose anything, especially idle.
Attachment 145751
Roger that. Thank you sir.
Wednesday morning… Wire was pulled at IAT connector. I fixed the problem and loaded the above configuration file, then scanned the vehicle, but couldn’t get it to start this time. IAT was 68 degrees so it was gtg.. will try again this evening. I did normal up the throttlebody set screw and took back out the 19 1/4 turns that I put in yesterday to keep it idling.Quote:
Originally Posted by edcmat-l1
try not to mess with anything until you get it to idle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bum454ss
And actually idle is the last thing you want to start tuning with.
meaning, dont focus so much on the idle, but the ability to get it to drive.
You need to get it up to operating temp and be able to put 20 miles on it while data logging.
Do a few short 2 miles trips and upload the log. This way we can see if you are logging the correct things.
No reason to go 20 miles wasting fuel if youre not logging the right channels.
Once your ve/MAf are getting close to 'right' then you can focus on your idle, which will make the ve/maf go nuts again and need further tuning.
It's not a fast opertion. Its a good day or two worth of dedicated work.
you can tune everything under 4k with your narrow band o2s.
WOT tuning you WILL need a wideband, or,since your lower rpm will be all tuned, find a local dyno tuner and have them polish up the WOT if that is available to you.
Understood. The only thing I monkeyed with was the set screw and now that is normal’d up.. I’m down for everything else as time allows. Thank you for the direction.Quote:
Originally Posted by bk2life