It looks correct in the table display but not in the graph or gauges... weird
It looks correct in the table display but not in the graph or gauges... weird
well thanks for looking into that. I think Ill just download a new config and change it.. I'm not sure whats going on with it and I tried a couple configs I had...
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/tunin...ing-faq-82211/
Not sure why you see that. I just looked and noticed a max of 172kpa on one of your pulls.
Im not sure if you will be able to see this or nothttp://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...75993750_n.jpg
It wasnt like this with 2.2.. I think Ill just uninstall and re install
On the lsj we can't make a boost gauge like that since we got beta or it would look like we where the gods of boost.
Thats what it looks like on mine but as you can see the MAP part is also showing incorrect..
Hey how the heck are you logging all those parameters? When I logged too many the scanner got all screwy and updated really slow and it looks like your logging at least 5 more than I was at that point. Maybe your pcm can handle it.
Im not sure. I didnt know what I was doing when I first set it up (still dont know much more lol). I tried re installing and a totally different config and no go.. Mind posting your config?
I was advised to keep it simple so I dumbed my config down a bit as I really didn't need to log a lot of the stuff I was and this is what I ended up with.
unable to phase log.. wonder what that means..
I dont get what causes my car to run and idle fine then later on when I start it up again it idles like crap.
I had that same issue when I was trying to open stuff too. If you dl it and just let scanner try to open it it will crap out on you. Save it and open it through scanner and it will work.
Wait for the engine to be at operating temp before you are tuning. Its going to want to run rich and I don't think we can change all the settings to prevent that. For example in open loop there are tables to change the equivalence ratio depending on certain temps.Quote:
I dont get what causes my car to run and idle fine then later on when I start it up again it idles like crap.
I wait until its 180 degrees. I did notice there's ECT tables that may cause problems unless its over 200 degrees. I'm going to try and correct those and see what happens.
Well changing the tables helped a bit but I ended up getting sick of erratic results especially when turning on the A/C or when the fan kicks in and ended up buying a pressure regulator and fittings. I am going to run a return system and save some tuning headache.
Crazy man...I have my car running better now on 80s/e85 than 60s/93. I have the afr error within 2% running open loop. Just turned my fuel trims back on.
Though my a/c is no longer when I converted to 6 rib for the SC. the bolt holding the a/c clutch snapped off so I just gutted the a/c and just took the whole system out.
I did all my tuning with the fans on 100%. when they come on normally now, the engine barely misses a beat. Before, just having the fans kicking in would kill the engine
Lol that sucks about the A/C. I didnt even think to run the fans on high all the time. Nevertheless I think a return system is better for tuning big injectors. This has been the only car Ive had this many issues tuning. It was only $215 for everything.
Do you have links to parts you got?
There is a few orders but this first one was from summit racing. AER-FBM2872 STEEL 3/8 BRAZE/#6 FLARE Shipped on
6/4/2012 $5.95 1 $5.95
SUM-220166B -6 O-RING TO -6 FLARE FIT BLK Shipped on
6/4/2012 $6.95 2 $13.90
SUM-220631B -6 PLUG O-RING BLK Shipped on
6/4/2012 $1.95 1 $1.95
SUM-220637 -06 BULKHEAD UNION Shipped on
6/4/2012 $3.95 1 $3.95
SUM-220687B -6 90 DEGREE BLACK HOSE END Shipped on
6/4/2012 $11.95 3 $35.85
SUM-220690B -6 STRAIGHT BLACK HOSE END Shipped on
6/4/2012 $3.95 1 $3.95
Hose: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330375703504...S:3160&vxp=mtr
Gauge: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330392720319...ht_1216wt_1163
Regulator: http://www.amazon.com/Aeromotive-131...3&sr=8-1-fkmr0
I decided I am going to weld a fitting on my stock fuel rail near the #1 injector for the return side. There is also a nice spot in the center of the fuel pump sending unit to place a bunkhead for return fuel. I will keep my stock pump and just bypass the regulator in the tank.