WOT Cutoff mid pull

(Will attach log file down below. If you have any questions, i will answer them to the best of my ability and as soon as i possibly can.)

During WOT, about midway through the pull, something happened and it basically fell on its face for a second or two.
At cruising speeds and slowing down to idle i would sometimes notice that my A/F gauge was jumping up to 2.00 lambda. Which I am unsure if that is normal.
I can't get my timing retard graph to log anything though so i am unsure what exactly is happening when it falls on its face. Maybe I'm overlooking something.

Car's Setup: 2019 Camaro SS 10 Speed with
LT1 piston/rod drop in combo from TSP
BTR STAGE 3 SC Cam (Specs: 23x/24x .64x"/.63x 114+5) (I have no idea what the specs mean)
Circle D 3600 Stall
Procharger D1X Blower with green belt, 3.85 pulley
ATI Performance Products Balancer 7.525"
LT4 HPFP and Injectors
Fore Innovation Dual In-tank pump with upgrade lines, etc.
64.3 Percent ethanol As of the current log.
Kooks 2 inch longtube headers, no cats, and straight piped with a few exhaust leaks because the place i took it to sucks, so i have to fix those here soon.
Stock TB, Intake manifold, heads, upgraded valvetrain for cam, stock crank. I think that's about it that i can think of.

You need to log knock retard to see anything, so do that.

Your bank 1 o2 sensor is basically dead, so fix that too. It's reading like 3mv the whole entire time and that is not good. There is a P0131 code in that log so that is what you want to look into.

The data log is missing lots of torque based channels to help see what is going on. Also you should post the tune file itself.

that sensor isn't in the exhaust anymore. i was unable to disconnect it so i just have it zip tied up until i can the car on a lift.
I'm unsure what torque based channels to add, as i am still new to this stuff.
I plan on getting the knock retard logged but for some reason its not working. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong.

Attachment 113738

Agree that you should add some channels, like delivered engine torque, engine torque, knock retard, power enrichment, and more. Also looks like your wideband channel is not working. Quick look it seems that part way through 4th gear on the second pull it came out of PE (.800 commanded) and went to 1.000 commanded. Running over 9 lbs of boost and going into stoich, ouch. That event only lasted a few hundred rpm then it went back to commanding .800, so perhaps that's what you felt?

i noticed that the wideband at wot stops logging. at least the gauge stops. i?m not sure why. but it is concerning. as for going stoich. i?ll definitely need to get that fixed. It could possibly be the power enrichment issue. i will take everything into account at this point. a buddy of mine said it might be the TB closing.

unfortunately i don?t have my trans tune so i can?t make any changes in the editor until i get that. i don?t want to lose the tune i have right now for the trans and last time i opened the editor i had an oh crap moment and almost lost the trans tune so now i?m nervous to mess with it.
as soon as i get to my laptop i?ll plug it in and add some channels. it sucks that i can?t add channels without being connected to the car. I?m still trying to learn how to navigate everything in HPT. like what maths to use etc and how to just get good data and using different PIDS, etc

You'll need to put that bank 1 sensor 1 back into the cars exhaust dude. That's how your car controls its fueling at everything below PE. Kind of important

I will. But even before pulling that sensor, it was still having this issue. The sensor has only been pulled for a few days

Like the other, actually experienced members unlike myself have said, you need to log the torque channels because I'm sure putting a blower on these cars screws with all kinds of torque values. I did note that your bank 1 STFT is at like +25% a good portion of the time, I'm sure you've noticed your fuel economy in the crapper since pulling the O2, and I'm guessing those plugs are not happy running super rich. Just because you had a tune issue before hand, doesn't mean the mechanical issue you created didn't make it worse :drivin:

Did i not ask what torque channels need to be logged? Did anyone give any input on that? No. I do not know anything about tuning or logging. I am brand new to this. I'm simply asking questions.

I am more than willing to plug the sensor back in. But, when i do, and the same issue occurs with it falling on its face like mid pull, where do i look next?

Did you break out the BARO sensor from the MAF if it is in the pressurized section?

It looks like your BARO is reading 17PSI

You need to log spark knock, low side fuel pressure, injector pulse width and all torque parameters you can find.

Your narrow bands and your wide band report a lean condition on at the top end and you command 1.0 for a bit under load and boost.

No. I've been looking into getting a baro breakout harness but haven't gotten to it yet. I added a whole slew of torque parameters today and also added spark retard, advance, etc along with a whole list from a youtube video. I wasn't able to take it out and drive but hopefully tomorrow or friday i'll get a chance to log and see more of whats going on as if i actually even know. Thank you for the input

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Originally Posted by BeauRichardson

No. I do not know anything about tuning or logging. I am brand new to this. I'm simply asking questions.

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Then no offense dude, but perhaps you should take the car to a professional so you don't risk blowing up your very expensive test dummy of a car. I didn't know much about tuning at first either, and still really don't, but I only did an intake, manifold and E85 to my car, not a blower, cam, etc without any prior knowledge. Just play it safe

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Originally Posted by BeauRichardson

that sensor isn't in the exhaust anymore. i was unable to disconnect it so i just have it zip tied up until i can the car on a lift.

Attachment 113738

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NEVER EVER DO THIS. NEVER OPERATE THE ENGINE LIKE THIS. Either unplug it, (better yet) re-install it correctly into a pipe, or shut off closed loop in the calibration. Do NOT operate the car like this; I don't care what the reason is. It will DROWN half of the engine in false correction.