Tuning 2019 Mustang GT 10R80

Hello,

I have a 2019 Mustang GT 10R80 that I have been starting to tune with HP Tuners. I am starting this thread to document what I am doing and to get feedback on my progress. I have a lot to learn and this forum has been a great resource so far. I only have tuning experience with a 2014 Mustang GT that I sold in 2015. I have lost a lot of what I learned since that time, and this 3rd gen Coyote is quite a bit different from what I remember.

My car is nearly stock with an Injen no-tune CAI, a Ford Perf by Borla cat-back, and a passenger side catch can. I have been data logging the car to see how it operates within stock parameters and trying to figure out what impacts what.

I am posting the stock file and my current file loaded to the car. The file currently on the car is mostly transmission and limiter changes. I have not had a chance to get out and data log the changes I have made to this file, but I have been driving on it for a couple weeks and it's been all good so far.

My next planned changes are to adjust the OP, power enrichment, and driver demand parameters to get it into OP/WOT sooner. Eventually I would like to enable flex fuel so I want to create a solid 93 octane tune first so it adjusts as accurately as possible.

If you have any feedback on my progress so far or on the way ahead I welcome it.

Also if anyone has a read-out from the Ford Performance Power Pack for 2018+ Mustang GT they would be willing to share I would like to take a look at it.

Thanks for sticking with me on this long post.

Mitch

I went out and ran a couple logs today. Nothing crazy. Just some driving and WOT pulls to 7600-7700. Attached.

Attachment 111750
Attachment 111751

personally id start with the small items like making sure the tq/spark sources arent hitting limits and building up the borderline tables to get closer to mbt if your on 93 all the time. when you log those, strip down the channels to get the highest resolution. usually sources and rpm/tb angle.

on pump gas id leave the PE lamda values alone. on e85 lean it out a bit.

leave the tq tables and tb tables and speed density alone. you could wire a map sensor into the ac sensor circuit and make sure there isnt any large variance but on stock mani, its likely to be pretty spot on.

most usually spend a good chunk of time on the trans settings and fine tuning shifts and feel. might start comparing other 10r80 tunes that are floating around and see whats being changed and why.

the stock tune is solid to begin with. more finesse for drivability to what you like. adjusting the distance tables and the loads they require to get from fuel econo to best drivability can lead to positive midrange feel for daily driving. and then from there into the OP cam timing.

the op stab can be used to setup the cam on the shift for the next gear. usually more of a positive for the manual guys but worth watching on the auto. this is usually spot on for stock cam settings, but if you start changing them something to keep in mind.

i dont recall if the gen3 has a fuel rail sensor for the low pressure side. on the gen2, with increased rpm the inferred tables are off on the few ive logged and most end up shoving the error into the maf curve and applaud their 50lbft air flow for a sign of success at making more power/proof of it. it works for fueling but its a lie. regardless the best tune will give the ecu accurate data to work from. you can wire a fuel pressure sensor into the ac sensor as well. map and fuel sensors are temporary as the ac wont work right.

jump into deanm thread with his FBO gen3 and then murfies knock logic thread too. good ideas on what to change or at least areas to watch

Hello, thought I'd give you a hand in your project.
attached some minor mods that will provide better engine response.
P;S: don't forget to log for knock on high revs and keep in mind that you should add load value to your logger.
Attachment 111812

Cheers
Geo

Hello,

Thank you for the feedback and direction. I really appreciate it.

Grim…I am on 93 all the time so building up the borderline tables is something I had considered doing. I am just still trying to sort out all the mapped points. I have figured out which is which at WOT for the most part, so that should be relatively easy, but the rest of it is dizzying. And I know the IMRCs have an impact as well. Still logging, reading, and learning. I have an older Tuning School book for 1st and 2nd gen Coyotes that helps break it down and so does LaSota’s Cookbook. Just trying to visualize it all as I dig into it more.

I have the Tuning School 6R80/10R80 book and have read it end to end a couple times. I have made a couple small trans feel changes and it worked so I know I am on the right track. Just need to get my drag radials on in the next couple weeks to be able to test some other things I have in mind.

All the talk about cam timing, mapped points, distance tables, snap to point, snap to line is what I need to work on learning. If you can point me in a direction to read more I am looking for info.

I have been watching that deanm thread and looking at what he is doing. Lots to learn there. And I try to read everything murfie is putting up. Great source of info.

Geo…THANK YOU for taking a stab at the file I put up. I have a couple thoughts about what you did and why you did it.

I see in MP23 you added 3 degrees across the board like you did the other MPs except up top where my factory tune starts to knock around 5500-5800 rpm. This makes sense, but I wonder if there might be a simpler way to calibrate the timing curve for WOT into the MPs. I would think, since we know which MPs it floats between during a WOT pull, that calibrating the timing curve to be the same across the WOT MPs at higher loads might make more sense. Basically just make them all the same during the parameters experienced during a WOT pull. Obviously have to account for all the adders like intake charge temps, but this seems like an easy way to isolate the timing curve at WOT without doing any snap lines or whatever.

Am I missing something with that logic?

Also, is it worth dialing in the MAF? Trims are about 4% up top and hover around there down low. I assume it wouldn't hurt to try to get it closer.

Again, thanks for the help and the guidance.

Anymore info on this thread of where it went and how it turned out? Newbie here looking to read and read

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Originally Posted by Pistol_91

Anymore info on this thread of where it went and how it turned out? Newbie here looking to read and read

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Wow I forgot about this thread. I put a Whipple on the car shortly after I started this thread and have been working on the tune ever since. The tune looks nothing like a Whipple calibration anymore.

The biggest piece of advice I can give is to find someone willing to help you one-on-one. I’ve found someone who took me under his wing and that has advanced my knowledge exponentially.

The next piece of advice is to figure out how the mapped points system works. There’s a couple good threads on here that explain it pretty well. I look at each individual mapped point as it’s own engine configuration that needs to be tuned.

Well i came across it searching for 3rd gen tuning threads. Looks like i found you for the one-on-one.. jk lol. Are you specifically talking about the borderline map points or mbt, or both? The past few days im slowly understanding more and more about how the borderline map points work and when they come into play throughout the curve.

To my understanding the borderline is your base/floor, spark can dip lower than the borderline, but not higher than MBT maximum brake torque. Tables 0 to 13 are there for imrc closed, 14 to 26 open imrc.

I can help people tune.

Need 10r80 help

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Originally Posted by paulsmithsr

I can help people tune.

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need 10r80 help