Printable View
I bought Calibrated Success Basic DVD hoping for exact tables, alas it doesn't have what I need. So I revisited my tables and compared to another recent thread requesting LS3 injector data translated to the LS1 tables, and it is nowhere near the same to what I found online years ago. Would someone please be kind enough to post the most accurate data for the flow rate, offset, short pulse & minimum pulse tables for using LS3 injectors in the LS1 tables?
DSteck posted this file a while ago, it is what I am using and am curious if there is more info out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMueller
In this link, someone says this data is accurate, but there are 5 tables which are almost completely different from what is in the calibration you posted... hence my confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by NBMLS2TA
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...l=1#post340937
What I currently have in my calibration matches what you posted, except that in the Min Injector Pulse table my whole table is 1.277, whereas in the tune you posted the 8000 cell is 1.261.
I see that now. I just did a compare of the 2 files and the Flow Rate vs KPA in the link you posted looks like it is for 36 or 37 lb/hour injectors, the Flow at 0 kpa is 36.7. In the DSteck tune it is set to 41.7 @ 0 kpa. Also, the Offset vs Volts vs VAC tables are WAY different. The linked tune you posted has 4.5472 at 4.5 volts and 0 KPA. The DSteck tune has 14.0078 in that same cell, this table is drastically different in the lower voltage area between 4.5 and 6.5 volts, they sort of come together after that with the differences only being .5 or less....I would like more information on this as well.
I am not sure why there is a dip at the 8000rpm in the tune, I just left it as is, I will never see 8000rpm on this setup anyway.
The data I posted was an accurate mathematical transposition into the LS1 data format.
I have used the data similar to Dsteck's file and have not had any issues. Actually we have made great power.
Wonderful, thanks for the validation everyone. My calibration already matches the data provided by DSteck.
Looking at your tune in an old post, looks like your timing and PE are conservative unless something changed. I think you may have some untapped power there.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMueller
I don't recall which calibration I last posted. At some point there was concern about the NTK sensor calibration, so I bought a new one and worked on the fueling some. Then it got hot as hell and my daughter was visiting for the summer so I didn't want to mess with it further until it cooled down... I think our winter season is scheduled for the second week in January :rolleyes:
I wouldn't turn down more power, but at this point I'm not sure if the lack of power is in the calibration, a mechanical problem such as valve float or lifter bleed-down, a setting on the dyno, parts combination or a combination of all. I'm pretty happy with the part throttle tune, but I'm always second guessing myself that it could be better; the full throttle tune needs work but all I have are people wanting to charge me $500 + dyno shop time for a full tune. I'm thinking about using Virtual dyno to work on the WOT AFR and advance; I don't need the raw numbers to be accurate, just looking for the deltas.
A cheaper solution is to take it to your local track on test and tune night. For $20-$30 bucks you can test and tune and try different combinations safely.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMueller
Once you get your target AFR close and you want to just check for kicks on a dyno, then call your local shop and ask for how much for 3 pulls(most charge around $75-$80).
Or just ask them what the hourly rate is and pay for the hr($100-$125). If your part throttle is done, you just need to do some WOT pulls.
All of these examples, you are doing the tuning and it will be great to help you learn along the way. These are just some cheaper alternatives vs. paying $500+ assuming you have a grasp of the aspects of tuning. If you don't then I suggest you buy some reading material or pay someone but either way, you will only learn by doing it yourself.
I bought AutoTap for DOS and LS1Edit when they first came out and switched to HPT in 2004, so I've got plenty of experience using those applications and their workflows. I've had a half dozen business tuners tune a few different motors but until earlier this year I didn't understand the right way to calibrate timing. I have books and DVD1 from Greg Banish, and books from Don Lasota & Dan Maslic and there wasn't much content in there I didn't already understand when I received them.
So I'm definitely comfortable with the procedures for my specific vehicle, but I'm sure there are techniques which are intentionally not published, just like some vendors don't like to reveal cam specs.
Well you should be good to go man. If you don't take it to the track, just reserve an 1hr on the dyno and pull away.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMueller
Good advice from Powerzone. You will get better at tuning when you master logging and setting up various
histograms to learn what's going on with your motor. A lot of tuners tend to over-advance their timing thinking
more is better, when this is simply not the case. Try to study professional tunes (GM included) of builds with
close to the same compression ratio as you have. The higher your CR the less advance you need because the
motor is operating more efficiently. If you live in a place like I do where we only have 91 octane instead of
premium, then that means you need to take about 3 degrees off what optimal timing would be for 93 octane
because 91 octane burns that much quicker than 93 octane. I would shoot for 12.5 AFR on WOT until you
get your timing dialed in (no knock retard), then go ahead and try to get as close to 12.7 up to 12.8 maximum
for the most power. Leaner is meaner, but running even forged internals beyond 12.9 will cause premature
wear. Also, do not give in to the temptation to set your rev limiter higher than 6700. In most cases you could
set it as low as 6500 for a street set up and not see any reduction in quarter mile performance.
I recommend you consider buying Greg Banish's two books available on Amazon.com These are loaded with good information; if
you read them 2 or 3 times you will have a world of essential information available to use when tuning. Do not forget that tuning
is trial and error for even the best tuners. You have to try small adjustments in each direction to home in on what works best.
I meant to mention that if you still have your catalytic converters then their is a limit to how lean you can run at WOT if you have
disabled COT protection, otherwise you will melt your catalyst and plug up your exhaust big time. In that case I would probably
shoot for 12.4 at WOT; you will not give up much but you will not melt your catalyst.
I already have Greg's two books. I do have aftermarket cats in my ARH header/y-pipe setup and protection is currently disabled, so I'll keep that in mind.