D1SC car, 408 G8. switched to LS7 maf card in a 3.5 tube with the sensor pulled out near the edge of the tube, supposed to lose resolution but extend range but this thing is 15000 hz at 5000 rpm.
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D1SC car, 408 G8. switched to LS7 maf card in a 3.5 tube with the sensor pulled out near the edge of the tube, supposed to lose resolution but extend range but this thing is 15000 hz at 5000 rpm.
The tune can't change the frequency reading for a given airflow, it can only change how much air the computer thinks that frequency is. Why not use a 4" / ~100mm tube?
Because it doesnt fit the plumbing, and DSteck said his was able to make @1000 hp with a 3.5 tube and LS7 maf car with blower, so why is this so much different?
I saw little to no range increase going from a stock G8 MAF to this setup anyway, whats to say their will be enough range with a 4 inch tube... Is going from 3.5 inch pipe to a short section of 4 inch (that wont fit anyway) and back to 3.5" going to get 50% more range I dont anyway. I want to know why this reads so many Hz under all situations
What frequency does the sensor read key on engine off?
is your maf pull through or draw through placed?
blow through
it reads 0 Hz key on engine off
Just put in a larger diameter tube. 4" or 4.5"
Take a pic of the location and tubing in front and in back and post it. Depending on the sensor's location within the pipe, it may be susceptible to higher airflow. Doing nothing more than clocking it slightly different can greatly increase or decrease the sensor's range. That's the same principle as pulling the sensor out so the element is nearer the edge.
can you place the sensor to be pull through configuration i believe that would solve your issue.
not really
Dunno what to tell you. Made 1200+ whp on a F1X C6Z at 14,500Hz in a 3.5" tube.
between 0 - 34000 frames, I didn't see it get even close to 15,000 hz
-Carl
Figured out the issue with this one, was a doozy. The fool that put the alcohol kit in originally left a bunch of extra wire stuffed under the cowl. Every time you used the wipers, it rounded up some more wire. Was shorting it to ground stretched bare in some sports dumping some of the signal I guess, till it eventually finally broke and stopped reading.
Thanks for posting
LOL, "find the mechanical problem!" What actual airflow (unscaled) are you at now and at what MAF frequency near peak power?
FWIW, I also see that you have a change in diameter just before the MAF too. My experience with the housings that shift the MAF element outward (like yours does) to open up the middle is that they can have a hard time with changes in diameter. This is because the sensing element is closer to the wall, right where you sometimes get eddies in the flow if the diameter change is too abrubt and close to the meter. For me, changing to a smaller MAF housing (going from 4" down to 3.5" which was the same as the rest of the tubing and the throttle) that didn't have a diameter change upstream of the MAF element fixed everything.
Wipers causing fueling problems.... now I have actually seen it all!
I know, wires pulled by it, but still... hahaha