722.6 or nag1whats the difference?

in the middle of building a 722.6 or a nag1 i noticed that theres 2 different set of clutch gap specs, 1 for 722.6 and 1 for nag1. from my reading they are one in the same, so why would chrysler have different specs on clutch pack gap? chrysler have a higher clearences!! would anyone know the reason for 2 way different specs for the same transmission??? and which should be use? im guessing use the mercedes specs if its in a mercedes and chrysler if its in a chrysler but what would make the difference, the electronic, if they are one in the same? any help would be greatly appreciated as im at the end of the build and dont want to find out the hard way and have to pull the tranny out and tare it down again.

Different computer command, fluid characteristics and friction plate coefficient of frictions. Nothing to be really concern with, most people build them all the same with noticeable side effect.

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Originally Posted by TransGo Robert

Different computer command, fluid characteristics and friction plate coefficient of frictions. Nothing to be really concern with, most people build them all the same with noticeable side effect.

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hey transgo robert.so which specs should i use? chrysler has way looser gaps. when i spoke with atsg they said that the tighter specs will allow the clutches to last longer.i just dont want a huge dely in shifts or any slippage! what would mr. Transgo do?

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Originally Posted by Turbo2gnx

hey transgo robert.so which specs should i use? chrysler has way looser gaps. when i spoke with atsg they said that the tighter specs will allow the clutches to last longer.i just dont want a huge dely in shifts or any slippage! what would mr. Transgo do?

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It makes no difference as far as shift time that a human could feel. We are taking about maybe a milisecond or two, that little return spring resistance and clearance gets compressed way before the shift even starts, during the servo phase for the applying element. The clearance is only important to ensure you don't have too much drag when the clutch is released, at the same time not to have unnecessary apply piston travel causing the lip seals to wear faster. It is all builders preference really and also varies quite a bit depending how you go about measuring the clearance. You can't go wrong using the specs for the application you are working on of course, but none of this is really that important. Don't sweat the small stuff like the saying goes. There are hundreds of more important things to concentrate on when building a transmission to engine it works right and last as long as possible. However most of those things are not shown it factory or aftermarket assembly manual so people focused on those endplay and clutch pack clearance specs as if it was super important. It is just there so that you can tell if you have the right thickeness and count of friction disks ans steels really when all is said and done. And lastly, if you open a unit and a clutch pack looks like knew, don't complicate cornflakes, it was not broke so don't fix it, put it back together with the same clearance it had when you took it apart. After all you know that worked great.

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Originally Posted by TransGo Robert

It makes no difference as far as shift time that a human could feel. We are taking about maybe a milisecond or two, that little return spring resistance and clearance gets compressed way before the shift even starts, during the servo phase for the applying element. The clearance is only important to ensure you don't have too much drag when the clutch is released, at the same time not to have unnecessary apply piston travel causing the lip seals to wear faster. It is all builders preference really and also varies quite a bit depending how you go about measuring the clearance. You can't go wrong using the specs for the application you are working on of course, but none of this is really that important. Don't sweat the small stuff like the saying goes. There are hundreds of more important things to concentrate on when building a transmission to engine it works right and last as long as possible. However most of those things are not shown it factory or aftermarket assembly manual so people focused on those endplay and clutch pack clearance specs as if it was super important. It is just there so that you can tell if you have the right thickeness and count of friction disks ans steels really when all is said and done. And lastly, if you open a unit and a clutch pack looks like knew, don't complicate cornflakes, it was not broke so don't fix it, put it back together with the same clearance it had when you took it apart. After all you know that worked great.

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great writeup and thank you for all your help! heres what we ended up with on gaps and would appreciate you thoughts on it! (B-1 gap .063, mercededs min .040-.051 chrysler min .102-.118) (k-1 gap .079, mercededs min .062-.074 chryslers min .114-.130) (k-2 gap.089, mercededs min .059- .070 chryslers min .106- .122) (k-3 gap .062, mercedes min .051- .059 chrysler min .099-.114) (B-2 gap .060, mercedes min .008-.055 chryslers min .079- .095) nothing on B-3 from either manufactures. your thoughts on these gaps would be greatly appreciated!!!

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Originally Posted by Turbo2gnx

great writeup and thank you for all your help! heres what we ended up with on gaps and would appreciate you thoughts on it! (B-1 gap .063, mercededs min .040-.051 chrysler min .102-.118) (k-1 gap .079, mercededs min .062-.074 chryslers min .114-.130) (k-2 gap.089, mercededs min .059- .070 chryslers min .106- .122) (k-3 gap .062, mercedes min .051- .059 chrysler min .099-.114) (B-2 gap .060, mercedes min .008-.055 chryslers min .079- .095) nothing on B-3 from either manufactures. your thoughts on these gaps would be greatly appreciated!!!

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B-3 should be between 0.039" and 0.055". The other ones all vary a little bit depending on the friction disc count for your specific application. The more discs you have the more clearance it takes, K1 and K2 for example both can have 3,4,5 or 6 frictions depending on the specific application. But we are talking only about roughly 0.005". it looks like you went in between both specs, if that was measured with a feeler gauge without first compressing the pack like Mercedes does, then you are all good. As I mentioned this is not all that important anyway.

yes i split the differences between both. gave more of s gap than mercedes and less of a gap of chrysler and k-3 has an extra friction disk from the kit and i still had to use one of my old steel plates to get my gap now. the valve body has been cleaned and rebuilt using transgo kit and all mercededs solenoids. so with your approval, she will go back togets today!

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Originally Posted by Turbo2gnx

yes i split the differences between both. gave more of s gap than mercedes and less of a gap of chrysler and k-3 has an extra friction disk from the kit and i still had to use one of my old steel plates to get my gap now. the valve body has been cleaned and rebuilt using transgo kit and all mercededs solenoids. so with your approval, she will go back togets today!

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Go for it!

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Originally Posted by TransGo Robert

Go for it!

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ill report how it worked out when completed,