Need a good base map for 2016 Sierra 6.2L with Intake/Exhaust

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06-05-2021
onefastmx5

Need a good base map for 2016 Sierra 6.2L with Intake/Exhaust

Hello All,

I deleted the stock mufflers in favor of a Magnaflow muffler and installed a Volant air intake. I notice the throttle lags and it seems like there should be a bit more power. Don't have much experience with HPtuners but I bought the unit and credits to see if there is anything I can do as opposed to spending $600 at a local dyno shop. I ran a log and it has 2deg retard in a few of the WOT zones. Not looking to squeeze every HP out of it, a safe street tune is fine with me. Any advice/maps are appreciated!

Thanks,
James
06-06-2021
FastV

First I would start off by adding to the driver demand tables. Say 5% from 32%-62% app area and 0-80 mph, don't make changes to the negative numbers in the lower pedal areas. Next add 10% to the areas of 74% app% to 100% app, from 0-260 mph. do this with all the driver demand maps,, a, b, c, and reduced power. Do not copy the changes you made and post them from table to table. Go into each driver demand table and do them like I suggested above. The timing is being pulled during the shift as part of tq management. Go to the engine tab up top then spark sub tab. Scroll to the far right and down a bit to where you see the min spark base tab. Open this and add some timing to the areas you want to shift a bit harder. Do the same for the long term and reduced power and put in -5 in the entire section. This is tq based system so even though lets say you put 0 degrees timing in area of say 72 spark airmass and 5200 rpm you may not get 0 Degrees timing. It may still pull a bit more but at least it isn't like -25 degrees. This should firm up the shifts a bit and give you a better throttle response, but truth is to make it the best you need to tune the maf now since you have much better flowing intake and the engine doesn't know that. I have a 2017 1500 6.2l fully tuned, trans and engine but I also have kooks 1 7/8 long tubes with off road y pipe and slp exhaust. My tune would be great for your truck if you had headers too. I make over 500hp now.

Good luck.
Ryan
06-06-2021
5FDP

No stock 6.2 with headers/exhaust makes 500hp. They make 420hp at the crank stock, so maybe 380ish at the tire.
06-06-2021
vettemakesemwet

Would changing those min spark base tables help keep torque management advance from pulling timing when accelerating but not shifting? Having an issue with torque management advance pulling timing when accelerating but steady in a gear. Log says trans is predicted engine torque source when this happens, and it sometimes closes the throttle body a little too.
06-07-2021
FastV

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5FDP

No stock 6.2 with headers/exhaust makes 500hp. They make 420hp at the crank stock, so maybe 380ish at the tire.

Who said anything about 500 at the wheels?
06-07-2021
DenaliStone

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastV

I have a 2017 1500 6.2l fully tuned, trans and engine but I also have kooks 1 7/8 long tubes with off road y pipe and slp exhaust. My tune would be great for your truck if you had headers too.

That's some great info Ryan. I'm going to dig into my 16 Denali and see if it's close to that. The truck was tuned by Blackbear until recently when I added a Circle D converter and found out they cannot tune for that. Anyway, I just added some Kooks and would appreciate taking a gander at your tune if you didn't mind uploading it.
06-07-2021
FastV

[QUOTE=vettemakesemwet;652735]Would changing those min spark base tables help keep torque management advance from pulling timing when accelerating but not shifting? Having an issue with torque management advance pulling timing when accelerating but steady in a gear. Log says trans is predicted engine torque source when this happens, and it sometimes closes the throttle body a little too.[/QUOTE

It is the minimum timing the engine will pull down too. So where ever you set it that's the minimum it will target. So yes it will help with pulling timing down also when accelerating.

Regards,
Ryan
06-07-2021
FastV

Quote:

Originally Posted by DenaliStone

That's some great info Ryan. I'm going to dig into my 16 Denali and see if it's close to that. The truck was tuned by Blackbear until recently when I added a Circle D converter and found out they cannot tune for that. Anyway, I just added some Kooks and would appreciate taking a gander at your tune if you didn't mind uploading it.

I'll send you a Pm

Regards,
Ryan
06-07-2021
lucas287

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastV

Who said anything about 500 at the wheels?

If you're e85 converted - I'd bet 500 (crank) ain't too far off. Definitely that much torque though!!
06-07-2021
lucas287

Changes to Driver Demand are the most sensitive changes. It's honestly mind-blowing how you can endlessly tweak the feel with that table. It influences the shifting characteristics significantly too. I've found the stock shift timing and pressure isn't really that bad once you dial in the MAF/VVE/Driver Demand. Rather than adjusting Minimum Base Spark, I adjust the shift feel with Shift Torque Factor. You can get really finite with it too. Adjust for individual gears, load, rpm, etc.. I have mine set up to feel stock at granny inputs, sporty for my style driving, and slightly firmer at WOT. With the aforementioned Shift Torque Factor table ALONE, I can make it shift so hard it'll break traction on the 1-2/2-3 and piss off Stabilitrak.

Also - this might be unorthodox, but I couldn't stand how many layers and layers of spark adders there are, mainly the VVT spark adder. So, I spent a good deal of time zero'ing that table out and adding back in to the main tables. Then I massaged the whole table and got it silky smooth. This added a lot of refinement/throttle response/mpg too. Last but not least I dialed in Cluster Fuel Density so that my mpg readout is actually very accurate against hand-calculations. All said and done my truck (CCSB 4x4 L86/8L90) get's a solid 22-24 on the highway @ 70-75 MPH running 87 octane - as good as my wife's turbo 4 cylinder AWD SUV.
06-07-2021
5FDP

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucas287

If you're e85 converted - I'd bet 500 (crank) ain't too far off. Definitely that much torque though!!

If a 5.3 is rated at 355hp and 383 on E85 stock, figure the same percentage increase goes for the 6.2. So maybe ~450 and a touch more with headers/tune.

Nobody I talk with ever talks about how much crank horsepower their engine makes because that never makes it to the road. 500hp crank horsepower don't mean much when it's in a heavy truck, or has extra weight or large tires/wheels.
06-07-2021
FastV

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5FDP

If a 5.3 is rated at 355hp and 383 on E85 stock, figure the same percentage increase goes for the 6.2. So maybe ~450 and a touch more with headers/tune.

Nobody I talk with ever talks about how much crank horsepower their engine makes because that never makes it to the road. 500hp crank horsepower don't mean much when it's in a heavy truck, or has extra weight or large tires/wheels.

So in a way you answered your own statement for me. Every car manufacture publishes crank horsepower, not wheel! What about Richard Holdener or Steve Brule? They dyno Engine hp, not wheel. Do their test not count? A 6.2l with a good tune 1 7/8 long tubes with no cats, a true cold air intake, 160 tstat, LT5 throttle body with ported L86 intake on E85 and in 40 degree weather can see 500hp,Opps that meant to be 500 Crank Hp. You seem like a reasonable person so why would you want to attack me for helping another member and suggesting what they can make? Regardless of whether its crank or wheel hp its still a significant increase in power vs stock.

Regards,
Ryan
06-07-2021
FastV

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucas287

Changes to Driver Demand are the most sensitive changes. It's honestly mind-blowing how you can endlessly tweak the feel with that table. It influences the shifting characteristics significantly too. I've found the stock shift timing and pressure isn't really that bad once you dial in the MAF/VVE/Driver Demand. Rather than adjusting Minimum Base Spark, I adjust the shift feel with Shift Torque Factor. You can get really finite with it too. Adjust for individual gears, load, rpm, etc.. I have mine set up to feel stock at granny inputs, sporty for my style driving, and slightly firmer at WOT. With the aforementioned Shift Torque Factor table ALONE, I can make it shift so hard it'll break traction on the 1-2/2-3 and piss off Stabilitrak.

Also - this might be unorthodox, but I couldn't stand how many layers and layers of spark adders there are, mainly the VVT spark adder. So, I spent a good deal of time zero'ing that table out and adding back in to the main tables. Then I massaged the whole table and got it silky smooth. This added a lot of refinement/throttle response/mpg too. Last but not least I dialed in Cluster Fuel Density so that my mpg readout is actually very accurate against hand-calculations. All said and done my truck (CCSB 4x4 L86/8L90) get's a solid 22-24 on the highway @ 70-75 MPH running 87 octane - as good as my wife's turbo 4 cylinder AWD SUV.

:burnout:
06-13-2021
ggodwin22

i have the same thing on my truck i just added some long tubes and have a cold air intake, can i try out someones tune based on just these simple mods. or let me compare my tables? its a 2017 sierra 6.2
06-29-2023
Jer4251

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastV

First I would start off by adding to the driver demand tables. Say 5% from 32%-62% app area and 0-80 mph, don't make changes to the negative numbers in the lower pedal areas. Next add 10% to the areas of 74% app% to 100% app, from 0-260 mph. do this with all the driver demand maps,, a, b, c, and reduced power. Do not copy the changes you made and post them from table to table. Go into each driver demand table and do them like I suggested above. The timing is being pulled during the shift as part of tq management. Go to the engine tab up top then spark sub tab. Scroll to the far right and down a bit to where you see the min spark base tab. Open this and add some timing to the areas you want to shift a bit harder. Do the same for the long term and reduced power and put in -5 in the entire section. This is tq based system so even though lets say you put 0 degrees timing in area of say 72 spark airmass and 5200 rpm you may not get 0 Degrees timing. It may still pull a bit more but at least it isn't like -25 degrees. This should firm up the shifts a bit and give you a better throttle response, but truth is to make it the best you need to tune the maf now since you have much better flowing intake and the engine doesn't know that. I have a 2017 1500 6.2l fully tuned, trans and engine but I also have kooks 1 7/8 long tubes with off road y pipe and slp exhaust. My tune would be great for your truck if you had headers too. I make over 500hp now.

Good luck.
Ryan

hey man, ive got a 6.2 with kooks 1 7/8, and a borla exhaust. been playing around with my tune. would be curious to compare what youve done with what ive got so far. had to pull my headers as they were leaking at all the primary welds. im running a K&N blackhawk intake as well.