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I have a 2005 Silverado L33 5.3 all stock, I have done all the basics, such as torque management, adjust shift points, correct speedo, and i found a spark table on here that i copied over to mine. Anybody have any other suggestions as to what i could do to get some more power out of it? I do not have access to a wideband or dyno or anything like that.
without a wide band don't mess with the fuel, but the spark map for your engine can be tuned a few cells at a time to get max timing for the fuel u use. i am no master but i log timing, knock retard(stock) and SLOWLY rise timing thru the power range of the engine till i get a little knock then back a couple of degrees smooth the map rinse and repeat proper timing for your engine is primary to making peak power. then beg borrow or steal a wide band and lean down a little understanding your disired afr and fuel your using. then buy turbos ;>
Your TQ Managment in the trans area is still on... Also to delete your rear 02's(for track purposes ;))
make it go into PE sooner and increase the PE enrichment rate
Turbodenali...is that why i cant tune my ve table?? ive been trying for a month and the numbers wont settle down... and adjusting timing for WOT only is what your referring to right?
pe quicker , and burst knock is a real mutha.
Any updates on this? Working on PE tables and what not myself now :cool:
I normally don't post modified files on here, but the changes I made in this reflects the usual stock tune changes. The timing tables are good for 93 octane. Anything less you may get detonation at high loads cruising at a throttle transition. More cruise timing picks up a lot of mileage in these trucks, and usually offsets the cost of 93. Anyways, just a few other changes in here that make a big difference over the previous file.
pretty aggresive timing jake. does that table work pretty well with a 6.0? also does the shift time make a big difference with your trans? i am looking to make part throttle downshift a little less lazy
It's really not too aggressive, the GenIII truck motors take a lot of timing in stock and modified form. Typical 4.8's about 30*, 5.3/6.0(LQ4) 27-30*, LQ9's 26-29* depending on load etc.
These motors virtually have no torque, so the midrange timing between 2k-4k helps a lot to get them moving. It's hard to tell on a really heavy vehicle like a crew cab 1500HD, but in others it makes an apparent difference.
The shift timing is a commanded timing, and the 60E really can't shift any faster than .100 in stock form. Between the modifiers and real world latencies the .100 works well even in a stock truck. Makes them more "crisp" along with the line pressure. Most stock trucks don't have corvette servos so the low load trans pressure added in the tune helps a lot with not slipping the 1-2 when just playing around or when towing. With a corvette servo, it will firm the shift quite a bit but it's a safe comfortable level. Some stock transmissions from the factory will randomly react really well to the trans pressure changes. Some are just lax or have been beaten on so long it won't change unless you use a servo.
The biggest change for 90% of trucks is the burst knock tables. Makes a huge difference when racing, the power will carry through the shift rather than pull negative timing at the shift no matter what torque management you have. It took me a while to figure out which table was doing it, back 3-4 years ago lol.
Hmm. I was told to zero out burst knock. Need to check out your tune :o
Well you don't want to zero out the maximum knock retard values in burst knock. You just want to raise the threshold at which the PCM is enabled to pull timing for burst knock. Otherwise, you run into an issue where you could experience true knock and timing wouldn't be removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by smokestack
The minimum spark advance table is the biggest one to change really. Stock it's set to a negative number throughout. From about 2k and above you can have a positive value so the PCM won't pull to a negative commanded timing during a shift which in turn carries torque through a shift and keeps momentum. Usually on a really tweaked street car/truck with lots of mods I'll set it to about 6-8* less than total timing depending on what it is. So if I have 30* in a motor deal, have about 20-24* in min spark advance towards the high end minus the shift extension (RPM at which the motor drops to after a shift).
If you have a positive value in the low part of the table, the PCM can't properly control after start flare. You'll crank and the motor will flare bad until the IAC/Idle parameters trim out to a proper idle. Hence the reason for it being zero'd until about 2k RPM
Thank you for all the good info. I have the flare up when i start the truck. So now i have alot better idea where to look :doh:Quote:
Originally Posted by jakebdb56
Well, flare is controlled by the startup flare cont. table but the minimum spark advance is more or less a global controller for spark. It also applies to idle timing too, which in some cases helps with strokers etc. There's various methods and approaches for controlling it but I've developed a few that have worked well for me over the years.Quote:
Originally Posted by smokestack
thanks for the info jake. i put your part throttle shift table in my tow haul and reset my shift time and it made a big difference.
iVE BEEN LOOKING FOR A GOOD TUNE FOR MY 04 sIERRA. I use it to tow a race hauler. Do you think it will be good for that. Im only getting 13 MPH with 89 octane.Quote:
Originally Posted by jakebdb56
I have a cold air intake and cat back exhaust
you asked a question in a 3 year old thread, doubt you will get any answersQuote:
Originally Posted by Ryanezek36