Viper Gen4 PCM stand alone?

Anyone doing a transplant of this viper engine (as I did 2008 viper gen 4 in 71 roadrunner) use the stock pcm? Not really any info anywhere if this is possible or not! I'm thinking (hoping) that it'd be similar to a say a LS E38 where I can just power up the PCM delete what I don't need and run the engine? I have what I believe is everything I need including fuel pedal etc from the doner car. I'm about to work on engine controls (only have harnesses and PCM) no car.
Any input on this would greatly appreicated.
Thanks:shrug:

Yes. You describe my race car.

You'll have to disable the VATS, via HPT.

Excellent! Hey Keith is there any un-knowns I should be aware of? VATS disable should be same as chevy I'm guessing I have done many LS transplants along with a couple fords with good success this time however I'm jumping in blind (no real Dodge experience, ditched the manual 6 speed in favour of the manual body 727,etc) Everywhere I read they say Gen 3 no problem but Gen 4 no go. So just to clarify it can be done with the 2008 and newer coil on plug cam in cam viper mill correct? Thanks for the quick response btw I've had nothing but good luck with HP Tuners and the knowledge of the guys on this fourm.
Keep up the great work
big thanks

My motor is a 2008+, with a race cam (no cam phaser), and the Gen4 PCM.

We created the Gen4+ tuning product so I could do 2 things.. Run it in a race configuration (standalone), and tune it for my target HP for my class (GT-1).

That's great I'm not looking to change calibration over stock (not yet anyways ) get it running first. All I need now is schematics for this beast and it's done.
Thanks a lot Keith really appericated:D

Speaking on this topic... We have a 2008 Viper engine in a 68 RoadRunner..... It Fires up for 2-3seconds... then stalls.... I'm sure it's the VATS.

I'm not sure how to hook up the Can/Bus from OBD2 port to ECM.... I know the ECM wires are the White/Light blue(neg) and Wht/LtGray (Pos)

Pin 16 seems to be the Hot at all times

Pins 4&5 are Grounds

Pin 10 ABS

Pin 2 Wht/Vt (Circuit 203) Think that's Comm to the gateway module.

Pin 7 Tire PSI

IF I can somehow hook up the OBD2 port I think I'll be all set.... But need to get this up and running (For more than a few seconds) Lol...

Only need to turn off simple things... Evap... Secondary O2's VATS ... As long as it runs stock That's all we need.

Thanks for any help... Phone or Email...

[email protected]

(574)329-6390 Cell/Text Thanks!

From What I've learned over the last week.... The system requires us to use the Relay/message Module from the 2008 Viper... (Under drivers seat)

This box takes all the signals from BCM/Radio/ECM/SAT/TirePress/Ect and converts the Can/Buss signals into usable serial data to the OBD2 connector.

Should have this box here tomorrow... They are not able to be purchased from Chrysler... Not in stock and not being made.... Have to find it used.

Hope to have it running this weekend:pray:

You only need that gateway box if you want to run the OEM style gauges. It is not needed for reprogramming/diagnostics.

To hook up our tool for reprogramming/diagnostics, all you need is the +/-/can high/can low wires at the OBD port.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UR50SLO

From What I've learned over the last week.... The system requires us to use the Relay/message Module from the 2008 Viper... (Under drivers seat)

This box takes all the signals from BCM/Radio/ECM/SAT/TirePress/Ect and converts the Can/Buss signals into usable serial data to the OBD2 connector.

Should have this box here tomorrow... They are not able to be purchased from Chrysler... Not in stock and not being made.... Have to find it used.

Hope to have it running this weekend:pray:

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So that's what that thing does...I had to replace mine after I broke the connector a few years ago. Thankfully, they were still making them at that point.

Got it all up and working... waiting on the guy from Chrysler dealer to come down here for the Throttle re-learn and we'll be up and running for good.
We have a extra Hub module now Lol. :p

Hey UR50SLO good to hear you have it working I have not started the wiring on this project yet myself (fitting the engine etc) is there anything out of the ordinary I should be aware of? When I bought the engine all I got was a ecm, engine, engine harness, some of the pretty wrecked up engine bay harness (has the fuse center though) and a fuel pedal... that along with HP Tuners is all I'm hoping I'll need to make this thing come alive. Any insite on stumbling blocks you may of had would be much appreicated.
Thanks and good luck with the Runner it's gonna be a killer ride!

Attachment 53318

Attachment 53319

Hope these pictures work....

53Mercury... Let me know when you get close... We have it all documented what we did.
Plan on doing one of these a year now that this one is up and running.
I'm sure there will be a few more bugs to shake out of it before it's all over with... but so far it's running and idles.
~Scott

Excellent news it looks deadly!!! I'm not as far along as you are. all good so far except oil pan will need some mods to clear steering rack .. I'll certianly keep you posted.Attachment 54280Attachment 54281Attachment 54282

Ours is out and driving... Fighting one more issue with it on the drivers side O2.... I think it's the actual ECM that is bad.

Hope yours is going good!
~Scott
Attachment 59605

I'd love to see another idle scanner shot from a 08 and see what the DS and PS O2's look like... My drivers side is like a bar graph and the passenger side is normal.

Fixing limp is all with one table.... Especially on a swapped car with different rear gears. (Loads differently)

One more thing the ECM does I can't quite explain is it adds up to 39% Fuel for about 30seconds and then go's back to normal. It's just about like clock work when it does it...

I was thinking it was to see if the rear O2's were seeing a change? Or Canister Purge? Any Ideas on those?

Other than that this thing is running great now.
~Scott

Are you talking about the Peak Torque table? What did you have it set to, and what do you have it at now?

I tried increasing the values back sometime last year, and it caused the throttle bodies to open up really slowly when doing a 3rd/4th gear pull. It never went into limp mode, but it also didn't do what I expected. Still not sure how that table is referenced...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Keith@HPTuners

You only need that gateway box if you want to run the OEM style gauges. It is not needed for reprogramming/diagnostics.

To hook up our tool for reprogramming/diagnostics, all you need is the +/-/can high/can low wires at the OBD port.

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This was from a while back but it's information that will help me with a current project.

Keith,
Can you tell me which pins in the OBD port the CAN BUS + and CAN BUS - from the ECU black connector should be connected to in order to hook up for programming and diagnostics?

Thanks in advance!

FWIW I use this link to look up pinouts on FCA vehicles.

http://connectors.dcctools.com/home.htm

Great resource! I hadn't come across it yet. Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JCBBRRS

Great resource! I hadn't come across it yet. Thanks!

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Yes...I verified the info on that site when I swapped my Viper's plastic throttle bodies over to the newer style metal ones - the metal ones used a different connector with re-ordered pin functionality. That site was 100% accurate, and was the only reason I was able to complete the project.